Matt Harwood

Apparently, the fault behind these was due to the manufacturers trying to speed up the build process and the ran one of the PCB's through a solder bed to quickly which didn't allow enough solder to stick to the board. Once they start to get warm, the solder cracks where it's too thin, and hey-presto screen freezing, followed by the circle of death... Unless you can find a very friendly dealer, they don't swap them any more. It has to be sent off via UPS. You'll be given a phone number to call, which goes through to a foreign country, and they mail you labels to attach to a box. Once you've done that, you phone UPS and they arrange collection. They're quoting a turnaround time of 2-3 weeks at the moment. My sons gets collected on Wednesday. Just what he wanted for Christmas... 6 games and nothing to play them on

I've seen the misfire on cars with stock injectors, so that rules that out too... In fact, I first noticed mine doing it when I was still on the stock twins with stock 440's.

I've extended the 12v side on mine to about 10 metres due to the only plug socket in my garage being at the opposite end of the garage. I've also used the 12v extension outside the garage when I couldn't get the car inside for about 3 months.

That's what I've got. Worked fine for the past 3 years on the same battery and went most of last year without being driven. A battery charger will do just that. Charge the battery by constantly holding the voltage at a set level. Usually 12.6-13.8v, although some will charge at a higher voltage to charge batteries faster, (Which has a detrimental effect on the longevity of a battery). If a battery charger is left on for too long, it heats the battery causing the acid inside to evaporate, which will generally cause the battery to die prematurely, or even melt or explode! A Maintenance charger will do exactly the same as a normal charger, with the exception that it monitors the current needed to charge the battery. As soon as a maintenance charger reaches the point where hardly any current is being draw, it will stop giving out a constant voltage and begin it's maintenance cycle which is basically pulse charging. The unit will keep giving short pulses of voltage to the battery. If the current draw begins to get high, (battery going flat), it will revert back to a constant voltage and the whole cycle begins again. (note that after the initial charge, a resulting 're-charge' may only take 10 seconds before reverting back to pulse charging). Hope that makes sense

Mine does it, and I've seen lots that do it. Only really noticable at idle, or if held at a fast idle. Doesn't cause any problems under boost, not even at 1.8 bar! (With racefuel) I've tried changing the plugs, coils, cleaned up all the connectors, tried different ignitor packs, different ECU... I've been told that its down to running colder plugs, but to be honest, I'm not sure thats true. I've given up looking now, but now I'm subscribed to this thread, I'll keep an eye open just in case.

Hitting full boost on my single turbo'd Peugeot 308 Diesel, isn't quite as much fund as doing the same in the Supra... I miss not driving it... Must get it MOT'd next month!

I've had a BL one on my car since June 04. It's probably covered about 15k miles, with no problems that I'm aware of. The engine has certainly not been treated with kid gloves, and is quite being pushed when it does come out. The car is fitted with a T67, so its no slouch. However, I implicitly trust Digsy on here, and he did a write up some time back, about reasons why you shouldn't use one. If I was starting from scratch, I'm not sure I'd use one again.

Sold

Advertising on behalf of a friend, (If I'd known 3 weeks ago, I'd have bought it!) Nintendo Wii with controller and Sports pack Super Mario Galaxy Resident Evil Wii Edition Roughly 5 months old. Selling to fund the purchase of a PS3 £200 Contact via PM me if interested and I'll pass on his contact details.

I'll take it if it's still available Cliff.

Glad you got it all sorted. I thought it may be a fuse. Probably a 10a fuse in the kickwell fusebox.

I've been meaning to do that for years!!!

They're basically covering their backsides. A battery 'can' explode as Phil said, but the chances of that happening with a modern battery are incredibly rare. About as common as a running car blowing up a petrol station... If you wanted to be extra cautious, connect the charger to the battery terminals first, then switch on at the mains afterwards. Personally, my charger is always on, and as soon as the car goes back in the garage, I just put the croc clips on the terminals and walk away

Whilst I agree that if a determined thief may take the car regardless of what's fitted, you do have to consider that that type of theft is fairly uncommon. What you're protecting against is oppotunists and joyriders. By getting a good alarm and having it well fitted, what you are actually buying is time. The longer and more awkward it is for a thief to steal a car, the less likely they are to steal it. Personally, I'd go for a Clifford. Get one with a Dual Zone Proximity sensor. If the car is parked on your driveway, or in a garage, there is no reason why your outer zone should trigger and as such, acts as a nice early warning for yoy and a good deterent to most thieves. The Tilt and Motion sensor is also a good option. Personally, I would also ask the installer to activate the Blackjax option. This can be a PITA to get used to initially, but becomes second nature after a while. What it does, is prevents someone taking the car even if they have the keys and remote for the alarm. With Blackjax turned on, you have to enter the alarms valet code, (like a pin code), every time you drive the car. If someone gets the keys, the car will start and allow them to get a short, safe distance away before immobilising and locking out the remote controls. If you're on a budget, get a Toad or Stirling system, (Both made by Toad). You should be able to get one of these fitted for under £300. Try to go by recommendation rather than the cheapest price. I've seen many, many people that have been caught out by shoddy installers. Usually the type that have no base address and come to you with just a mobile contact no.)... And avoid GAP!

I've had my car mostly sat with a trickle charger on it for the past 3 years or so. Mines connected directly to both positive and negative on the battery and nothing has blown up or melted yet. However, if you'd prefer to stick to the instructions, you can use pretty much any bit of exposed clean matel you can see. Engine bolts, battery clamp, suspension top mount bolts. Preferably nothing made from alloy though...

But he might WANT it. I don't think I NEED it, but I like it. It's an added safety net, that when used correctly, can make the car more fun to use

Yes, I could have done it cheaper, but I'm sure you could have bought your car cheaper if you'd looked around a bit more. There is always someone that can do something cheaper. Usually after the event. - A quick search shows me that you asked the question about alarms a short while ago. Someone suggested you contact me... You didn't. Yes, the 650 can work with Smart windows, as can any G4 or G5 alarm system. None of them come with it. Neither do any Thatcham approved alarms come with shock sensors. All Cliffords can work with a turbo timer if they're connected up for it. It's a fiddly job to do, depending on how the towbo timer has been wired up. They may also have needed to use a couple of relays to make it work properly, especially with Intellistart wired in. As for charging you for it, I would have too. It's a PITA to do. I'm not having a go at you, just trying to get across that you were happy to start with, and all of a sudden you've lost the plot and turned 180 on what you originally posted. Yes there's an issue with your lights, and again, the spec of the alarm they've fitted is virtually identical to what you were quoted on... Maybe they just couldn't get hold of a 950 at that time? Out of interest, have you checked your fuses?

If you're buying it new, you order one for a Supra. If you looking at second hand, make sure it has the capability for 6 cylinders. They come with instructions for fitting to pre-facelift JDM TT's and a UK TT. There are a fair few different ABS ECU's and a few have different connection locations, hance you may need to check what you're connecting to. There's a reasonable amout of info on here though.

Dean, out of interest, can you weigh one of those, complete with bolts.

Jazz, I can see your issue with the rear lights. However, it's a very common problem. look here as an example. I must have seen this type of fault on about 10 Supras so far. They may have caused it, it may be that they coincidentally stopped working either before or after they fitted the alarm. Having been it the trade for a fair while and had similar things happen to me, as an installer, I would happily rectify the problem for you without charge, (even if I didn't believe the problem was caused by my work), but I wouldn't remove the alarm because of it. The fact that they have fitted a different unit than agreed is the only point of argument IMO that you have. However, you need to bear in mind that they have brought it up to virtually identical standards and specification as the I950. So effectively you've got everything the I950 would have, except the instruction booklet.... Also, keep in mind that they haven't over charged you. At least not if you go by retail prices. And remember that, as I said earlier, you were happy with what they'd done in your first post.

It's not rocket science. Providing you have a basic electrical knowledge and know how to solder, you'll be OK. You may need to test some of the cables to ensure you have the right connections for the injectors and ABS wires. Soldering the ABS wires is the most awkward part.

I've been fitting Cliffords for the past 15 years.

I think he's actually saying that modern art is shite!

Rough idea on how much you want for it? - It could be useful for spare plugs etc.

Just to clarify things. The Intelliguard 950 is now dead and buried. It used to be their top of the range, but most dealers would stock the 650 and 'spec it up' to the 950 when needed. The 950 came with Dual Zone Proximity sensor, Glass Tamper Sensor and Tilt and Motion Sensor. It also had a single cable to make fitting of multiple sensors easier, (Only useful to the installer). It also had on-board relays for the central locking, (Only useful to the installer). Lastly, it had an extra channel output over the 650, making 3 in total. (Channel outputs can be used for controling things like door or boot pops, headlights, window closure etc - They do nothing as standard, or within the spec/price). Other than that, that's it. it did/does nothing more. For what it's worth, Cliffords phone number is 0800 929949 Hope that makes things a little clearer.