Matt Harwood

Martin, re UK/Jap differences... Does your car have BOTH "lights on" and "keys in ignition" beepers/buzzers?

Yes. I got my Supra in late November and nearly all my driving was done in the dark. for the first couple of weeks, I never turned the light switch off. I've now got automated light sensitive headlights courtesy of Clifford's nightvision, so I never need to touch my headlight switch at all:D

My J-spec has a "keys in ignition with doors open" buzzer, (more like a chime actually), but no "lights on" warning buzzer. However, if my lights are on, they go out as soon as the drivers door is opened.

Out of interest, does anybody know if there are any benefits of decating, (one or both), if you already have a boost controller and vfcc fitted? (set to cut at 1.25max)

I changed my engine oil and filter about 3500 miles ago. Due to be changed again, but do I need to change the filter yet? If not, how often should the oil filters be changed?

Can Powerhouse do the Geometry set-up as well?

Rally Design are in Kent. Web address: www.raldes.co.uk If anybody's interested...

Following on from Eyefi ***THIS POST COULD BE Another RIGHT PILE OF SHITE*** The Ford Mondeo with rear drum brakes "disconnects" the rear brakes when the ABS kicks in. Probably usless info but for those with inventive minds, maybe worth a look

Cut them off.... Do they not unbolt? And yes, thank you Iain, make sure my name's on your list.

I am told that the backplates on the J-spec front brakes are too small to take the UK disks and calipers. Do I:- 1, Remove them totally? 2, Cut them to fit as best as possible? 3, Order new UK backplates from Toyota and are they a straight fit? 3 sounds like the best option to me. Does any body have a part number and rough cost? What has everybody else done?

I'm interested too! Where are Powerhouse? Any rough idea on how much to install?

I've never tried that bug'n'tar remover before. Does it take off any wax/polish as well? And no, I've never had any problems with WD40 and paint. With the exception of getting the smears off afterwards!

Mine never goes into 4th/overdrive when in manu mode either. Never has, hot or cold.

Take this with a massive lorry full of salt as I am certainly no expert by a long way, (Was that enough of a personal disclaimer ) I used to have a Sierra Cosworth that failed because the emissions were too high. It turned out that the airfilter was mucky. Changed the filter and it passed straight away. - Could have been coincidence but it worked. Could a bad air flow make the fuel mixture read higher? - Dunno but it sounds feasable OK, I'm going now 'cause it feels like I'm talking to myself, (Or talking crap One or the other!)

Amen... Let there be peace. Pete, got any pic's of the dash lights?

Make a change that I could help you for once... Anytime

Have you looked at :- http://www.mkiv.com/manual/manualtt/brake_replacement/fb1.jpg It's not the best picture, but it may help.

Iain, did you notice any improvements of anything? Smoother running, brighter lights etc.

:biggrin: Made me smile!!! (both the comment and the new signature!)

I've been reading some sales info on powered earth cables. Does anybody know exactly what they are and what they do? There are claims that they can make your engine run smoother, give more power, make headlights brighter. All very bold claims. Anyone shed some light on this for me? - (No pun inteneded)

I've taken mine to an earth bolt behind the passengers kickwell. Interesting that you should say the earth point you have taken your earth to, is not good. When I installed my alarm, I used one of those ecu cover bolts and my headlights were noticeably dimmer when powered from the alarm as opposed from switching them on at the stork. I moved the earth to a bolt under the centre console and "hey presto" problem cured.... Glad your ok though. Wasn't it you that lost all your RL settings recently? - Could the two events be linked by the same problem?

I'm fairly sure Mycroft mentioned something about being able to "switch" the soft start off of the auto. I believe it's donw by altering the ecu wiring. It may only be possible on the Soarer Perhaps Mr. Mycroft would like to step in here....

Is the odo working? - I had similar symptoms/warning lights when I drove the car without the odo connected.

I know I'm a little late coming in on this one and I assume I'm the only one that doesn't know but; What's scary about dot 5.1? - A friend of mine at a local Ferrari dealership did a service on my car recently and I'm sure he put Dot 5.1 in when he replaced the fluid. In the next couple of days I'm hoping to change my front brakes. So, if I have this 5.1 in my braking system, this would be a good time to remove it.

Following on from Phils post... If there's anybody out there using the standard settings, you REALLY need to get them changes to suit your car. I was very impressed with the system in standard form. it worked well, although a tad jolty on fuel cut. After Phil had altered the settings, the difference was apparent immediately. On the wet setting, the TC cuts in far quicker with virtually no wheelspin and the fuel cut is soooo much smoother. At Bolney, I was lucky enough to firstly experience a dry roundabout coming off at full throttle and a standing start from a junction turning right. Both of these worked brilliantly. When we left Bolney, we went down to Brighton in the rain. Whenever possible, I used the TC system on roundabouts, junctions etc. Amazing. - Many :biggrin:'s I know this site seems like an ongoing advert for RLTC, but with good reason. For those that have it, make sure the settings are correct, for those that don't, get it. It's well worth it. Thanks to Justin for getting it for me and thanks to Phil for setting it up.