Matt Harwood

It's definately there! Under the pedal, right at the bottom where it goes into the floor, I have a round piston type of thing with about 1" of movement. I can't say when it'll do it but every now and again if my foot is right on the floor, it wil push up a little. Could it be linked to the standard TC system? Anything to do with auto transmission?

I've got no mats at all yet. No warning lights came on either I'll test again tomorrow - Could be my imagination (Edited by Matt Harwood at 11:57 pm on Jan. 5, 2002)

During a brief moment of madness, (getting rid of a Fiesta RS turbo that insisted on sitting so close I could'nt see his bonnet!), I had the throttle flat out for a good few seconds and I could swear that something under the pedal pushed upwards. Any ideas?

Syed, got to discussion and look at tc or not tc. Check Justins latest post.

Reading your info sheets, you were impressed with the default setup. How much difference has it made now that you have "tuned" it?

I am posting this for myself and any others considering getting/fitting the RLTC system in the near future. Do you need to have a laptop for this to work/setup correctly? Once programmed, will it lose its settings if the battery is disconnected? What is the "Field connector"? Are there any Supra mk4 specific installation wiring diagrams available? Is the ABS ECU the one right behind the radio almost by the bulkhead? (I assume it's not the white plastic one with "ABS" moulded on the top that usually mounts on top of the radio.) I think that's it for now and a few of these may answer themselves when I actually get the system in my hands... Thanks.

My wheels are straight from a GS300 Lexus. They are 8x18 with 235/35/18 on the front and 10x18 with 275/35/18 on the rear. With help from Dean, I know they will happily fit the UK spec as well.

I thinks, and this is pure speculation, that perhaps some processors/regulators may be able to adjust themselves to cater for the variable voltages in a cars electrical enviroment. I think its that "jolt" that knocks them out. - (Not very technical is it!) In answer to your question about being disconnected... Very possibly. Occasionally, when installing something, the first time it is powered up it may not operated correctly. The usual disconnect/reconnect usually cures it. To keep things in perspective, bear in mind that I would guess you could jump start 100 cars and only have problems with 5 of them. In winter, when this problem is more common, we get at least 1 call a week relating to this. But, we must get about 50 or more calls and probably a similar number of customers walking into our shop every day.

Yes Martin, I've come across the phone problems as well. You've probably hit the nail on the head with the cost thing. I'd put money on almost any ECU in the Supra costing more than an alarm ECU, no matter how simple. My car isn't garaged either... Same problem as you. By the way, Mr Flipfinger... How'd your evening go?

Glad to hear your car was ok. Steve, in answer to you questions; I have not physically "seen" any damage caused by jumping or bumbing a car although I do get so many cars in that have been started that way and when they come in, they need resetting. I have had a few, (3 maybe 4 in 8 years), that never go again or need to be sent away for repair. Upon repair they have either had diodes replaced or processors. (At least, that's what the repair reports state.) I have seen a melted microchip, (processor), on a Clifford immobiliser board after a garage boost started a car. Yes, a car battery does act as a dampener. The problem when jumping is a the massive, or potentially massive upsurge of voltage. If a battery is so flat the interior light is dim and almost goes out when you switch on the ignition, your battery is probably resting on around 7 volts. If you were to connect this battery to an already running car you would be more than doubling the voltage in a split second. This is when processors can lock up. Yes, most micro circuits run on 5v and yes they generally are controlled/fed through regulators. These regulators are designed to operate at tolerences around 10.5-16volts - Not 7ish or so... All ECU's will generally do a quick self test when they are first energised, so going from 0v to 12v is not a problem. In fact this a good thing. it can reset the processor to it's intended state and it can begin to learn/operate again. The problems arise when the operating voltage goes outside the normal operating/designed voltage. Something I don't know and would love somebody to explain to me is; what makes normal standard fit ecu's more resilient to these voltage changes. It is usually the aftermarket products that suffer the problems ie. Audio head units, navigation systems, alarms, immobilisers... All the bloody things I fit!!! :o Most of the info I have described above I have learned from the likes of Clifford, Toad, Alpine and a few others... I don't claim to be an expert and certainly don't know the in's and out's of microprocessors, but what I've described hopefully makes sense and answers your questions... Matt.

Thanks very much Dean. You should have tried the 10" rears on one side cause they do look good. But then I am biased! Justin, Guess we'd better talk then... I'd want to come over and see you about it though. My biggest concern is that big installs take up lots of time, and I don't get too much of that. - I still havn't even got rid of that poxy standard cassette deck yet! I'll arrange to get over to F1 early in the new year... Don't panic, it'll have to be sooner than later, as I don't have much left in the way of brake pads and I'm not going to pay out for a set of pads if I intend to change the whole set-up. Thanks to Keith as well for offering to try my wheels on his car...

Justin, the balls in your court. I can do Sunday or next Saturday but not until about 5-6 ish. - Likewise, Saturday is our busy day as well, but we close on Sundays...

PS. Good luck with your romantic thing tonight and I hope your car stays intact.... She must be special. I'd go and get my car!!!

It's all to do with processors again. With either bumping or Jumpstarting, you can dramaticly change the the processors operating voltage/speed. When you have a flat battery, generally, your battery will be sitting at around 10~11 volts or less. When you bump or jump the car, as soon as the car starts or has those leads connected the voltage does a massive surge upwards to around 14.4 in a fraction of a second. The processors can see this as an "error" and shut down. Worse still, but rare, fry. The same cure still applies. Disconnect one battery terminal for a couple of minutes, waiting for the processors to reset/stabilise then reconnect as "cleanly" as possible - You don't want too many sparks when the terminals are reconnected. Keep doors shut, ignition off and keys out of the car. (Some alarms will go straight into armed mode and lock the doors on reset!)

I'm buggered if I'd leave my car in a car park overnight! Just to let you know, as I work with cars/electrics/alarms etc. Jump starting a car is not the thing to do by far because it will give a massive power surge through your electrical system. But sometimes it is necessary. To be as safe as possible, do as many of the following as you can. 1 get good thick jump leads with strong croc clips preferably with surge protectors built in. 2 make sure your ignition is off, your doors are shut and you have your keys OUT of the car. 3 attatch both leads to your battery, (MAKE SURE THEY DO NOT TOUCH!), then connect both leads to the car with the good battery with the engine OFF. 4 start the other car, and hold the revs at about 1500-2000 revs. 5 if your battery is really flat, wait for about 5 minutes before trying to start your car. 6 start car then disconnect leads asap. (Being careful not to short out the leads on anything.) Jumpstarting is unhealthy to any processors you have in the car. Nearly all alarms have processors built in now, and the mkiv Supra has loads that control..... Everything! If you are unlucky enough to have locked up a processor after this, (something not working correctly), try disconnecting one of the battery terminals for a couple of minutes. Most processors will reset and be ok. Good Luck!

Dean, I don't want to put you to any trouble, or keith/Justin for that matter. So, yes, if you don't mind and you think you have the same wheels as me, would you mind trying one of the fronts for me? If you don't have the time perhaps I could still meet up with Keith and Justin if that's ok with you two? I don't mind either way. I just wanna know if I can get the UK 4 pots inside my wheels. thanks

I'm confused about the torqueic thing/Ashford phone number/Brands hatch....

Yeah yeah... Showing my age!!!

I have a small, (2cm), black dome on the top right of my dashboard just under the front screen. (Jap. RZ) Anyone know what it is?

My dashboard did a pretty good impression of Christmas tree lights just after I had put an alarm system on it recently. My trac light started flashing on the slightest wheel slip, the O/D light flashed as soon as it started moving forward and when I got to 70ish the main warning light and engine warning light illuminated. It all cleared when the ignition was switched off and on, then it started all over again... Anyway, after horrible expensive thoughts that I'd destroyed something whilst playing with the electrics, I took the top section of the dash off and the Odo plug virtually fell out. Clipped it back properly this time and everything works fine now. Even though the Odo was working during all these strange goings on, it just shows that some things can be so simple. I Hope yours is as simple Ian.

Sorry Dean, didn't mean to ignore you... Are wheels on your GS300 the 10 spoke type with centre cap? - I have 8x18 on the front and 10x18 on the rear. They were on the car when I bought it. - I don't know what the GS300 should have...

Justin, is that what used to be "All car equipe"? (I know that was years ago!).... I thought you were based in Ashford? Sunday works for me, better in fact. Is that ok with you two?

Ooo... Loads of questions... Justin, where is your place? What time is best for you Keith/Justin? - I'm working on Saturday but may be able to leave a little early. Beers. Any favourites? JB, What/where is TIC? (Please don't let it be anything too obvious!) Is that invitation open to everyone?

Sounds good. I live in Medway and work in Maidstone so Brands is easy for me too. I'm assuming there is cover or workshop there? I wouldn't want to waste your time to be rained off...

Is that all right Keith?... Who's Keith? And where are you? (Edited by Matt Harwood at 6:06 pm on Dec. 7, 2001)