Matt Harwood
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Everything posted by Matt Harwood
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Hmm. Sounds interesting... I'd like to see some pictures; Ian! Thanks Alex
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How DO you do that??? I can only get 0.7 on the first turbo
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Sorry Craig, I don't know what he used but I don't remember it being anything special. I can't tell you how much because I had loads of other bits done at the same time.
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Leon changed mine recently, the cars done less than 50,000 and the oil that came out was black! Only difference I noticed was in my pocket... I'm sure the diff apreciated it though
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Don't worry too much about getting J-spec parts, most are the same as UK parts and it's only the occasional part you'll need to get and there are plenty of specialists around now. In just over a year of owning a J-spec car, I've never had a problem yet Touch wood!
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Most Toyota dealers are very thick skinned. Ignore what they say about imports. I've never come across a part thats 3 times as expensive yet! I could be wrong but I didn't think they were allowed to refuse imports these days. My local Toyota dealer has a letter from Toyota UK on their wall saying they would give equal service to UK or imported cars. The guy behind the counter said "as long as it's got the Toyota badge, we can help". I have 2 local Toyota dealerships. Ones really helpful, the others are a bunch of W**k**s
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I've seen 1000! And I could hear detonation! - Frightening That was before changing fuel pumps, upping the pressure, and fitting Chris's restrictor plate. Now I run at about 800 at 1.1 bar and 900 at 1.3. The highest I've seen it go recently was 950 and the boost peak was 1.35. I've now fitted a buzzer to give audiable warnings at 1.32 bar or 925 degrees... Whichever comes first.
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There's a few NA's for around £7,000 - £8,000 on Autotrader at the moment. Servicing costs are going to be cheaper on the NA as they don't require oil changes as often. Don't know how much though.. NA owner, please step in... I agree with Paul above though, The NA's are quick cars, but if you want a 'very' quick car, you'll always be wiching you had bought a TT to start with. - If it's the looks you like, get the NA, there's no difference externally.
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The guy that does my oil changes charges me £20 to change the filter, flush the oil and refil with Helix. - I can't go wrong:) He works for a Ferrari dealer... He must get the oil cheap;) Beats getting your hands dirty!
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Shell Helix for me... Only 'cause I get it free!
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No problem mate Not sure when the next one is though...
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AFAIK, the amps rating is usually indicated with 'cc' standing for 'cold cranking'. I believe thats the maximum current the battery can deliver. Idealy, you want a high ah and cc rating 250a sounds like a battery for a Starlet! Mines a 70 ah and 640a cc! - (recently replaced from a dying 500).
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I got mine from a tyre and exhaust company. I do get trade discount, which helps Just shop around a bit. Barry got his for £30! If you're ever near Maidstone, I'm sure I can get you one.
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500 amps should be fine. If you do need to pay anything for a new one tell 'em to shove it. Shop around and you can get a better battery for much less. Like Barry, I got a 640 amp for £35 last week - Complete with 3 year guarentee, (I didn't question it:rolleyes:)
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Dil, how did you get on?
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Naah, the car would still turn over. Dil, stick another battery on the car before you try anything else. The clicking sound is almost certainly the starter solenoid engaging then dropping off because the battery cant provide enough current to engage the starter motor. You may have enough voltage/current to power the lights but they will only require about 10-20 amps max. The starter will be in the hundreds! Borrow a battery from another car iff possible. Jump starting isn't ideal.
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Not that I'm saying its the way to do it but... The guy that did my first oil change works on Ferraris for a living. I wanted him to flush the engine first and he said it was better to flush it through with some normal clean engine oil. He emptied all my oil, filled it up with Shell Helix, ran it for a while and then emptied it all again!!! - Talk about waste of oil! - Still, I didn't pay for it! I don't know if that's better or not, but apparently that's what they do with Ferraris:conf:
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You're a brave man Alex... Or should that be brave Guinea pig?
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Your theory sounds good Ian. Thanks for that. I did manage to get it to do it in manu mode this morning so that rules that out. And the problem only seems to happen at around 3500rpm I think that pretty much clears it up. My car is normal after all Thanks for all the input guys
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Agreeing with everybody else. It'll almost certainly be the battery or the battery connections. If the battery can't take a charge, the charger will switch to trickle charge anyway.
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Boeing? - They have fairly small wheels in comparison, with huge profiles, don't seem to slip in the wet and they do fly! /silly
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That picture on your website with you under the car and your nephew looking devious... Please tell me you had more than just that scissor jack holding the car up
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Is that like Michael Knights Turbo boost button Looks like you and Martin were on the right track. Isn't the power button the same as the manu button? Paul, I'm starting to think that its a common thing but my only concern was that I can't remember if it used to do it and I've become more aware of it recently. Perhaps more noticable due to the Hiper.
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Hi Doug, yep, still does it with the boost controller off, (although that's still 1.1 bar!) I drove home in 'manu' mode and I couldn't get it to do it at all. however, there was loads of rushour traffic around so I didn't really get a chance to put my foot down much. I'll try again in the morning
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Thanks Adi, something else worth trying. I was kinda hoping I didn't have a problem as such. All suggestions welcome
