Matt Harwood

Must be an auto as it's an Aero. I'm getting maximum boost as the second turbo comes in. I've got a full CW decat and a Hiper with one of Chris's restrictor rings in place. I generally hit 1.1 - 1.2 unless I turn the boost controller on. Before fitting the restrictor ring, I would hit anything between 1.3 to 1.6!

Sounds like a fun job!

Time to get out the multi-meter I'm happy to go through mine pin by pin to give you something to compare to.

I'd like to have a go at this! - Surely on this event I can just keep my foot to the floor... 'self control optional'

My DSBC and HKS gauge always read the same, wel, within a needles width of the gauge reading anyway. And they're taken from different points. That didn't really add anything to the discussion did it...

Steve, yours sounds like iffy plugs/gaps. I had the same problem. Fuel cut is more definate... You have more of a 'bang' and the engine/hazard light come on, by the time you've thought "Shit, what have I broken", it all goes back to normal. (Assuming you've backed off!) Mo, are you sure it was the oil light?!? - It should be the engine light and the hazard/warning triangle.... Or at least that's what mine did

AFAIK, Mines simply modified the standard ecu... As Mark says, wait for Alex to confirm as he will know for certain Got to be a good thing!

Thats a cool program Chris!

LOL, I'm wondering if the wiring looms are ready for electric seats from LHD cars or the wiring's present for heated seats, (was that ever a JDM option?), or perhaps my passenger side seatbelt warning light was broken???

I dont think so. I had the standard seats in the car until last week and the light never came on when a passenger sat in the seat and it was plugged in. Besides, there's 5 or 6 wires in the loom. You'd only need 3 for a seat switch and belt switch.

You're right, the seatbelt lights don't work, and can't either. I've just connected up the heaters in the UK seats... Which leads me to another couple of questions: - What are all the wires for on the passenger seat of a J-spec? After connecting up the heaters on the UK seats, I'm left with 2 unused wires. Both white/black, one with silver bands. I assume these relate in some way to the seatbelt light. One rests on 9 volts when the ignition is on, the other rests at earth. If you apply 12 volts to the one resting on 9v, a relay, (or something that clicks), activates inside the drivers rear quater panel near the seatbelt location. You need to ground the 9v wire to disengage the relay... What is it?

Dylithium

No idea mate, sorry. If it was with the red triangle, I'd guess fuel cut...

Engine management!

I'd guess it was a plasma injector going off line

All the lights should light up when you switch on the ignition. The only yellow lights on the left are ABS, Oil level and engine management light.

Gimme a dry spong! Gaz, are you sure that ALL the UK ones don't work? SMW, ahh, the old search function... Thanks ! edited to say thanks to Ian for finding it in the first place.

Can anyone tell me what wires do what at the base of the seats on a UK car? I've figured out how the heated seats switch works, and plugging the plugs in at the seats gets the motors working without any alteration to the wiring. What colour wire does the heater work on and whcih one operates the seat belt indicator? - Which way do they switch? (12v or earth) As there's only 4 wires, I'd guess that it's either a common earth or common positive setup. Any help would be greatly apreciated...

Terry, you have mail...

Phil, I'm hoping to go down this route very soon. The only real advantage that I can see with high impedence injectors is that you don't have to hack around with your loom. Although, I don't suppose it's too much agro fitting 6, 6 ohm resistors onto a bit of ally plate in line with the outputs of the RLTC to the injectors...

Ahem, and 4th Don't tell me, there's only one gearbox too!!! Sorry, couldn't resist, just being facetious

I got the gearing info from the NZ site... http://www.mkiv.co.nz/specs.htm Unless you know different?

For anyone interested, there was a discussion going on in the 'for sale' section regarding the difference between manual and auto diff ratios on the TT's Ian C and myself have both run our cars at 3000 rpm to find out the actual speed difference between the two diffs. Ian tested his car in 5th which is a 1:1 ratio through the gearbox and I did mine in 3rd, again 1:1 through the auto box. (Both JDM Cars) Manual 6sp @ 3,000 rpm = 66/67 mph. Auto @ 3,000 rpm = 56/57 mph. Both speed readings are acurate enough. Ian using his Apexi unit and mine was by GPS. Estimated acuracy +/- 1 mph Thanks to Ian for helping me with that and thanks to Eyefi for getting me all fanatical in the first place! If anyone has a UK TT6 with GPs or similar, Id be interested to know what yours does.

Only for roundabouts