stevie_b

I think that's because you're trying to feed two signals to the ECU on the same wire, which it won't like. One signal from the odo output, and another from the odo input. Not sure how the odo gets the speed signal input if you've done that. It can only get it from pin 5, and that's been cut and joined on the loom side to the output. This would allow the ECU to get the correct speed signal, but does your odo still count up as you drive?

That sounds right. The pink wire from odo plug (pin 6) is the output of the odo unit. If the odo's buffering is screwed, this wire won't carry a signal. So it's cut and an alternative signal (blue wire) is fed into it from the speed converter. Essentially, the diagram shows the output from the odo being discarded and instead an alternative speed signal (blue wire) is used. However, sounds like you've got a dry solder there.

Yeah the problems are usually linked. The speed sensor sends the speed signal to the speedo dial, from there it goes to the odo, and from there it gets sent to the ECU which controls the progressive power steering, active spoiler, etc. If this sequence is broken at any point (usually on the odo circuit board), then the active spoiler, /o/d system and PPS will stop working properly. If your odo ticks up the miles or kms OK, then you can be sure that the speed signal reaches as far as the odo input

I've got replacement seat cushions for my front seats, because my existing cloth seats are looking tatty. The new cushions are complete with springs and frame to bolt them onto the seat tracks. Do I need to remove the front seats completely in order to change the cushion parts? I've read a thread on here about how to remove the seats, but it described pulling the plastic trim off of each corner: isn't that screwed on? Some of the screws (e.g. LHS of driver's seat) butt right up against the transmission tunnel, so I can barely touch the screw let alone get a screwdriver onto it. Also, how does the driver's seat adjustment knob come off? I've tried pulling the knob gently (insert joke here), but it wouldn't shift. Looks like the centre of it might come out, but I've tried that too with no luck.

Terribleturner's right

I got a mechanic friend to do what kamikaze suggested, and it worked a treat! Thank you!

Yeah, sorry guys! The linked page doesn't really explain what to do. Click on the link labelled "Here's the schematic" to bring up a circuit diagram of the plugs and wires of the speedo system. I'm 90% sure that the "speed signal input" pin on the odometer plug is pin 5, and the output pin is pin 6 (i.e. the re-transmitted buffered signal). If I'm correct, what you'll need to do is strip some of the insulation on the pin 5 wire, cut the wire to pin 6, and solder the loom side of the "pin 6 cut" to the exposed pin 5 wire. This merely bypasses the buffering of the odo unit. This is from looking at the diagram on the web: I'm fairly certain of what I've written, but I'll try and dig up a diagram at home to confirm it. If I don't post on this thread again in the next couple of days, please remind me! Steve

That would only be caused by someone simply changing the "KPH" sticker in the speedo to a "MPH" sticker! If that's what's happened, then the previous owner did a completely pointless (if very minor) modification! Best thing to do is get a speed converter from Thor. I recommend Thor because their ones sort out the other electrical goodies I was talking about.

I agree with smarty, a Thor speed converter is definitely your best bet. Incidentally, what do you mean by "the car is still reading in KPH"? If the speedo dial has been changed, then the car speedo will (if the new dial face isn't bodged) be reading in MPH. The main difference is that your speedo's digits probably stop at about 120MPH, whereas if you get the converter, it can read up to 180MPH. Not trying to put you off getting a converter unit: there are electrical systems in the supe (e.g. progressive power steering) that rely on a proper speed signal. Just want to make sure you're not concerned about the odometer still counting up in kilometres: this is a separate issue which can be fixed if you want, but a speed converter alone won't do it. Ask or do a search if you want more details about that.

Try this link guys: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/peter.betts/supra/TechTips/speedo.htm Hodge: a bit of background for you. The electronics in the supra's odometer unit can play up sometimes, and the symptoms you get when it does this is a speed sensor error (code 42). However, this is only the ECU's interpretation of what the problem is. In my experience, the speed sensors themselves very rarely need changing, and the problem usually lies in the odo.

I think Sara Cox is a bit of a looker. Chris Moyles (IMO) is not. Although I think they're both good on the radio. I did like Mark and Lard in their day, I reckon Chris M is the best DJ I've ever heard. Not everyone's gonna agree with that and I know he winds some people up big time, but there you go....

I think high octane fuel may be more refined, hence more expensive. Most NA owners on here (including me) run their soop on 95 RON. Most TT owners run theirs on 97 RON or higher.

OK mate, thanks for the honesty. I'll leave the wheels thanks, but good luck with the sale anyway.

Wow!!! Rosie's car could soon be finished! (That's not meant to sound sarcastic. I'm really looking forward to seeing pics of the finished car).

What condition are the alloys in? Any kerbing at all? And would you post them? Last time I saw your car was at japfest a couple of years ago: actually I think that was your NA. How's the TT experience compared to it?

Thank you both! Most helpful. I'll concentrate my efforts on the starter motor then.

I know there are loads of threads on this topic, but I have a specific question about my car, which I haven't been able to find an answer to: Quite often, when I go to start my car in the morning, I turn the key, and just get a single "click" from the engine bay, no cranking at all. All the dash lights light up fine. All the headlights, radio and other unnecessary peripherals are off. Wait 2 seconds, try again: single "click" with no cranking at all. Wait 2 seconds, try again: single "click" with no cranking at all. Wait 3 or 4 seconds, try again: strong cranking, and engine fires up fine. I'm sure this is either the battery or starter motor. With the common starter motor fault, is it as tempramental as this? Same with the battery: can battery faults cause this type of tempramental problem? I've got instructions on how to overhaul the starter motor, but I don't have the kit to do it (jack, axle stands, etc). I don't want to buy it and overhaul the starter if it's unlikely to be the cause of the problem. Likewise buying a new battery and finding out it's not the cause. Any advice is appreciated.

I believe in them. I *think* I might have seen one, but not sure. I was half-asleep, so I might just have been in that still waking-up state of mind. I too like reading this stuff. I've read loads about it in the past. Some stories and reports are clearly hoaxes, but some defy all explanation. Like stones being thrown at a house at night by unseen people/things: police were called in, but couldn't find anyone, even with nightsights and infra-red. Temperatures dropping in a room by 10 degrees C in a space of a couple of seconds, then rising to their previous levels. There's too much unlinked circumstantial evidence to dismiss it as made-up.

I usually "camp it up" in Cornwall, but have been to the lakes too (just can't remember the name of the campsite). Take a look on ukcampsite.com

Excellent! I'm feeling the love on the board! Happy birthday to you both!

Ah, I'm in Hampshire. I'll give it a miss thanks. I'm really looking for a mint condition 16" alloy to replace one I've kerbed a bit... and rather than just get it refurbed, I was hoping to get a set with tyres. Good luck with the sale though.

http://www.ananova.com/news/story/sm_1937986.html

Where are you based mate?

Hi guys, Yes, code 42 is often due to a dodgy odometer. I think the soldering goes dry on the odo circuit board or something. Dry solders can be very hard to trace! There are other things that can cause code 42, but this is the main one. If it's a dodgy odometer, new ones are very expensive from Mr T (several hundred pounds I think). You can get a second-hand one, but 1) who knows when the soldering will go dry, and 2) until someone can sell you one, you'll be driving around in a car who's engine warning light will be lit 80% of the time. When my odo did this, I bought a converter/TSD from Thor, and in the fitting instructions is how to bypass the odo's speed buffering. Bypassing the buffering doesn't seem to have an adverse effect on the progressive power steering (i.e. still works as it should do).

Thanks guys, On the offchance, does anyone know where the breather hose is on these engines? If not, my neighbour will just have to buy a haynes manual for it. [hijacking my own thread here] I did a search for escort owners clubs, thinking there would be loads, but they're don't appear to be! I found a couple, did a search for "oil" and "spark plugs", but got no hits!!!! I did a search for "escort" in the escort forum, and got... 3 hits!! Rubbish!