stevie_b

Yep, sounds like it. If you're sure you've wired in the speed converter OK (and if the odo is incrementing, it sounds like you have), then a flaky odo unit is the most likely culprit.

I think you've hit it on the head Brian: the answer to hangovers is the tactical chunder!

Hi Jack, Welcome to the club. Where abouts in Hants are you? I'm in Basingstoke. As for your problem, you should be OK disconnecting the battery as long as the immobiliser is off (i.e. engine not immobilised) when you do it. If the battery thing doesn't work, then you can remove part of the dash to get behind the odo. Don't worry, it's not as bad as it sounds. There are pictures on here somewhere that tell you exactly what to do and where to pull. If the battery reset doesn't work, then I guess that you've got a cheapo delimiter unit. Not too bad to replace, and a decent one (e.g. from Thor) should sort the problem out. Before splashing out on a new converter unit, you can test the odo circuitry to make sure it's OK. The odo counts electrical pulses at its input, so if you're OK with electrical stuff you should be able to send a pulse to the input and see if it ticks up by a digit on the display.

Bosch worktop dishwasher for sale. Model SKT5002. Bought from Comet 2 or 3 years ago, but only used about 6 times. Immaculate condition, white with no scratches. Works perfectly. Looking for £85. Can post if required, but it's fairly heavy! I'm in Basingstoke, Hampshire. Measures 555mm wide, 458mm deep, 450mm high. It has a single water inlet hose that has a washing machine hose style connector on it. When we used it, we connected it to the kitchen sink tap with a simple home-made adaptor, which I will include. I can post pictures if anyone's interested. Thanks, Steve

Well.... that was going to be my next question!

Just from what I've read on here from other people. I haven't tried the comparison for myself.

Generally, an NA is about the same to insure as a JSpec TT. The best way to save on insurance is to buy a UK model, but then you'll probably trade off cheaper insurance against a higher purchase price. Swings and roundabouts I guess... PS there is a UK spec for sale here: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=84324

Sabrina, who's that in your avatar? It's not you, is it?

nathman, where did you get that sharkcat piccy from? It's great!

That sounds correct to me. The pink wire goes to pin 6 (hence the odo output) and the blue/red wire goes to pin 5 (hence the odo input). As long as you haven't cut the blue/red wire, I would have thought that would work OK. If it *still* doesn't work, then maybe we've got pin 5 and pin 6 the wrong way round. I've based my suggestions on the TRL diagram that appears on one of the posts in this thread, but there's a smaller diagram also in this thread that appears to suggest the input and output are the other way round. If that's the case, then I'll be as surprised as you are. What this solution tries to do is to bypass a faulty buffering circuit within the odo unit. I have never seen an explanation as to why the odo buffers the signal at all. Most of the good TSD units you can buy actually bypass the buffer circuit themselves. I've bypassed mine when I had a code 42 a couple of years ago, and it has worked properly since then (including the odo display incrementing as it should). Alan: it's the buffer circuit that's probably faulty, not the input signal to the odo. If you accept that there's no need for buffering (you'll either have to take my word on this, or not as the case may be! See above), then joining the loom-side output to the still-continuous input wire means that 1) the odo should still receive the input signal it needs in order to increment; 2) the rest of the car should receive the signal that it needs to properly control the PPS etc and to eliminate the code 42 error.

AFAIK pin 5 is the input signal to the odo unit, and pin 6 is the output. When you get a code 42, it's usually the output of the odo that has gone wrong, hence the need to NOT cut the pin 5 wire, and put the pin 5 wire's signal onto the downstream (loom-side) pin 6 wire.

Are you certain that you haven't cut the wire to pin 5? You should have stripped the insulation from the pin 5 wire (so that you can solder the pin 6 loom-side wire to it), but not cut it.

As supra-man said. I've never heard of the light coming on for only a second and then failing to log any fault codes. The only other likely possibility at this stage is a dodgy circuit board where the warning light is, but the symptoms don't seem right for that to be the cause, i.e. if it's a dodgy solder then the lamp might flicker or something.

The cheek! I know the NA supra isn't the fastest car around, but the day that I can't beat a metro in it is the day I hang up my driving gloves!! I don't think anything's wrong with the metro.... apart from that it's a metro. I used to use the metro as a daily runaround to save a bit of fuel and wear 'n' tear on the supe, but it seems that most things the metro can do, the supe can do just as well!

My Rover Metro 1.1 now gives only about 30mpg. That's close to the supra!

Maybe in your case, you should have tried advertising it *without* the full-frontals! :p

Laura, I don't think you're doing anything wrong at all. It looks like a lovely car at a very good price. Sometimes though, if a car is very cheap (and the asking price for yours seems pretty low), people expect major stuff to be wrong with it. Just my 2p worth. I have a friend who tried to sell a car for a very low price with no interest. Removed it from sale, waited a month, re-listed it at a modestly higher price (we're not talking 50% hike or anything like that) and it sold very quickly. If I was in the market for another supra and I could get over my irrational phobia of auto boxes, I'd be on the blower to you straight away!

Hello!

Cheers for all the info guys! Graham, I've noticed that my tyres don't give the best of grip in the wet: do you reckon they're non-standard? (I bought the car with those on). I'm thinking of getting some Michelins from the wholesaler.

Sorry about that, I think this is what you need to do. Referring to the odometer plug, cut the wire to pin 6. This is the buffered output that isn't working any more. Strip some insulation from the wire to pin 5 (but no need to cut it), and solder the loom side of the pin 6 wire to it. This means that the speed signal flowing along the pin 5 wire will reach both the odo internals, AND be re-distributed to the PPS etc. I think the PPS picks up its signal (possibly via the ECU which you shouldn't need to touch for this job) from the loom side of pin 6.

I can't comment on the active spoiler or cruise control because I don't have them on my car. AFAIK the ECU only needs a speed signal from the odo unit in order to maintain the PPS. It doesn't matter if that signal is buffered by the odo unit first (i.e. stock wiring) or unbuffered (i.e. the modification that I suggested). If it were me, I would do the modification to fix the code 42 problem. The engine warning light by itself isn't really a problem, but if the ECU logs another more serious fault, you'll be none the wiser because you'll either have pulled the bulb out of the warning light, or just be ignoring it anyway thinking "I can ignore that, it's just code 42". I'm not aware that the ECU goes into a safe mode. I think it's up to the driver to respond to the warning. The worst case is that the change I suggested doesn't work, in which case you could splice it back together. Not great, but it means that the change isn't totally irreversible. Hope that helps a bit.

Go to http://www.dslzoneuk.net/isp_ratings.php and scroll down a bit to view comments on virgin.net. There's some unhappy customers there.

Thank you. Does a higher number mean a wider or a narrower tyre?

Does anyone use virgin.net for their broadband? If so, is it as bad as some ADSL websites make out? Sometimes the people who feel aggrieved (rightly or wrongly) are the only ones who complain, thus giving an unrepresentatively bad view of an ISP. Thanks for your time.

I've done many searches trying to find what size tyres I should put on the standard 16" alloys in order to keep it stock. I've narrowed it down to this: Front: 225/50 16 Rear: 245/45 16 OR 245/50 16 Can anyone confirm which is the correct rear tyre size? What does the 2nd number (e.g. 45 or 50) actually signify? Thanks