stevie_b

I'm in Fleet during the day: I could take a look one lunchtime if you wanted, but there's probably not much I could do in that time. First thing's first: does the engine warning bulb light up constantly (no flashing) when you test for error codes? If it does, and your speedo works, then it means the speed signal reaches the odometer and can leave it, but doesn't get processed within it. I'd try having a poke around behind the odo unit. If you're around during lunchtime, PM me and I can at least show you how to get the odo out.

The main spec differentiator is whether it's normally-aspirated (NA) or a twin-turbo (TT) version. I guess you know the answer already having bought it, but the VIN plate will confirm this. NAs have an engine code of 2JZ-GE and TTs have a code of 2JZ-GTE. Aerotop, or standard hard roof? Facelift, or pre-facelift? -> The age of the car is the quickest way to tell (but I can't remember when they changed to facelift, so I'm not much help there!) I think facelift versions have 5 dials in the driver's instrument panel instead of the pre-facelift's 3 dials. There's other differences too, most of which I can't remember...

Welcome to the club! The switch does sound aftermarket, even if you've seen it on other cars. For example, many J-Specs have the rear fog light switch wired up in the same manner. If it's not the rear fog light, take a photo of the switch and post it up on here. PS what spec is your supra?

Hi Sheefa! I've got my airhorn working, but I just want to wire it up at the battery in a neater way. I got mine from Halfrauds. I've used the existing horn wiring to act as the "signal" to the relay to activate it. The stock electrical horns take much less current than an airhorn, so it's unwise to use the existing wire to try and power the airhorn. What I've done is got an inline fuse run a high-current wire from the battery via an inline fuse (30amp, I think, fitted as close to the battery as possible) to one of the inputs of the relay. Like you, I've grounded my horn using the chassis bolt that the old horn used. My guess is, I don't think you've got a short, I think you're just drawing too much current for the fuse to cope with. The horn's air compressor is a thirsty beast! Oh yeah, make the grounding wire that goes to the -ve battery or chassis point as high-current as possible. 17amp doesn't sound heavy duty enough for this. I would look for 30amp. Remember, the high current from the compressor AND the signal current from the horn switch will both be flowing through this bit of wire. If you want photos or more advice about how I've done it, just give me a shout.

Yep, agree with that. Via an inline fuse, I presume? Otherwise if the high-power feed to the relay were to touch the bodywork, it would create a short. Did you take power directly from the +ve terminal of the battery?

Has anyone used the unused fuse slots in the fusebox to run extra electrical circuits to power things (e.g. airhorn)? Some of the unused slots have the battery-side electrical contact present, but no contact for the other blade of the fuse.

I bought one off grille-tech in the USA. Google them to find out their web address. I've mounted my grille within the front bumper recess, instead of right at the front (which IMO looks rubbish).

What does 8j mean? Is it stamped on the wheels?

That kind of follows. As you said, I think the TSD is wired in at the ECU, which is electrically "downstream" from the odo and (assuming the odo or speedo output is at fault) hence after where the fault initially occurs. Have you tried bypassing the odo's buffer circuit? It's a mod that can be reversed by using a soldering iron. (The combined Thor TSD/DSC or just the DSC on its own gives you the bypass-buffer mod "for free", but of course you don't want a DSC in Germany.)

99p wow! Wonder how much delivery was....

Hi Jspec Germany, did you get your odo problems sorted out? If so, what did you do?

One more bump for luck. If not, I'll give them away or chuck them in the bin.

JohnC: there used to be 2 others where I work. I think there's only one other now. I've also seen one in the Ravenscroft garage, presumably for a service.... jack: no problem. Do the battery thing first. Let us know what happens, it'll help others (me included!) learn from it.

Definitely not standard!

I don't have one myself, but I know a man who does and my thoughts are: Have you got the diff lock on? There's also something called transmission wind-up on 4x4s (related to having the diff lock on for too long), which may or may not cause the symptoms you describe. I don't know specifics though, sorry I can't be more help.

Kate Winslet.

Hey, I work just round the corner from you, on the junction of Fleet Rd and Kings Rd. Your tools will be handy for lunch, but not much else! The odometer uses the speed sensor's signal to increment the number it displays. Do any digits show on the display at all? We can have a chat about it if you want.....

Thanks for the info garethr, I didn't know that some NAs have 225 all round.

AFAIK these cars do go for quite a lot of money.

The rears are wider on an NA as well. 245 usually.

Do they have the 225/50/16 tyres all round? I think the rears are usually wider than that.

Then I guess a hovis shot from you is out of the question? And Welcome, supra_lady

I'm seriously talking myself out of a sale here, but...... If you want to fit the larger speakers, it just so happens that a member on here is currently organising a group buy for the brackets necessary to hold them. See here: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=99128

Wow, you've got no front speakers at all? I'm going to replace my speakers with a larger pair. The stock speakers are 4" in size, which is quite small. You'll get a much better sound (and I don't necessarily mean louder) if you fit 6" or 6.5" speakers. The doors can physically accommodate the larger speakers, but you'd need to fit a special bracket (which is not a Toyota part) to screw them to. Don't be fooled by Toyota's high price for stock speakers: they are pretty average. However, the stock speakers do work and they do give an OK sound, so if you still want them (first dibs to Simon, if not then mattyboy), then I'm happy to sell them to you for MUCH less than £300!