Noz

Looks tidy that craig. I actually looked at getting a metal one designed and laser cut. They quoted me around 1-200 pounds. That's always another option if you don't go carbon, could be a leg remover

Can't go wrong with a custom made splitter. Not that I'm biased Remove the middle supports so it did flex a bit on the day of the shot till I hooked it back up. Works well as an undertray! http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/462783_10150831056316227_1441187134_o.jpg

I'd reckon so. I needed the biggest one for my C West and it's not the largest of bumpers.

carbonmods.co.uk sell a custom kit that you cut to shape. Just depends if the APR one is the shape you want it. http://carbonmods.co.uk/Products/Extra-Wide-Carbon-Fibre-Front-Splitter-Kit__CMEWSPLT002.aspx http://carbonmods.co.uk/Images/products/medium/splitter-extra-wide.jpg

clock gauge looks nice. definitely a better look mounting it behind the dash rather than through it. ive mounted mine now as well, didn't even realise it came with a auto-dim function! little things for little minds

ARP/Titan Motorsports Front Splitter http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?614116-Tarzan-Yamada-driving-the-C-West-Yokohama-Supra-SLB-finals/page3

^^ Best way to be, I'd never consider myself competent enough to start quoting calculations of power. To be honest, I actually feel pretty low on power when I come on here alot. Alot of people in my area think my car's pretty nippy, and fair enough compared to most sport car's that people I tell my friend's what I ran at SRR, most the time I don't tell people, as people always expect something outrageous and someone will ALWAYS have a friends mate or family who has something with more power, so now I just don't bother I just say she's nippy.

We have a process at work that case hardens material, I'm tempted to try it with the w58 internals, but the hassle just isn't worth the cash. There must be ways to swap internals or at least improve the internals, even if you change the gear ratio's. I know this has been discussed to death, but would be great if a company could produce a service at a lower cost than swapping all the boxes out for a 2nd hand box. Flat rate cost to R154 and 6speeds, but they all have general wear..

That would be awesome to watch! Whatever the outcome lol

I thought you had a stock crank with uprated thrust washers jamesy.

Sadly guys, I'm still no further forward with knowing who and what stock components people have run 700bhp with. Jamesy had stock pistons, rods, crank with uprated supporting components like thrust washers, bearings and bolts. Is this typical for a 700bhp build, as a "true" build I assume is referenced to one which is built to last.

Just a bit of discussion really about people running 700bhp. I don't see much information on limits at these power levels, 600bhp seems to be a more common area for people discussing limitations. Over this, people generally build their motor, though I've seen a few run various stock components. Just thought it would be a nice topic of conversation, of what people running this sort of power had left stock and had no issues with.

With over heating issues a number of different problems could cause the same symptoms. I'd try and fix the problem instead of swapping the engine. When mine was running too lean I considered it instead of going through all the sensors, but turned out to be a simple fix. Keep your chin up dude, and keep hunting, your get there in the end. Go buy a TT isn't a way to solve this problem.

Replace 4 of them, 6 total. 4 new, 2 old?

Are you saying it would be best to replace 4 new ones?

Thanks buddy Hows your FFIM coming on?

This small idea has actually turned into a fair amount of faffing about to get it looking neat. Spraying the AEM gauge bezel was definitely a good idea. The gloss black finish made the whole thing look a bit gash. Having reduced the depth of the bezel, the gauge does have a slight bit of contact with the bezel threads now, so I'll need to take them back slightly as well to get a nice flush finish. It's not sat square either but that's because it's just loosely sat in the pod.

Good shout on the ECU location. Engines looking awesome. I need a 4" intake in my life! Reducers suck. Build is coming along for sure. Black hosing definitely looks tidy.

I will be supplying rings cheaper than the tuning shop. :-)

I'm in talks with a company which may be able to supply them, and also looking into making some. I am unsure which would be easier for the forum and myself, and quality wise for the end users. I'm not a huge seller of products, so am trying to extend the amount of products I can supply. At the same time, I don't want to supply the forum with parts which are already on the market for a decent price or more importly supply items which traders already advertise.

Does any forum traders supply these? Where do people usually buy them from? I might look into getting some made.

Not that I've ever seen, which will be nice to be the first to make something. I need to design them from scratch. I already have a new manufacture who can make these (hopefully) to good standards, being so small I am unsure the quality of the finish. I'm using the same company who are making the door sills. I will have a crack at this over the weekend. The concept, will be to sand the current buttons to a clear finish, and mount stainless buttons to each one, leaving the laser cut design to allow the LED light to come through, giving a perfect stainless steel button. I may have to modify the buttons to allow the steel to sit as low as possible, it all depends on the thickness of material I can get supplied. Of course each button would require to be smoothed and sprayed on the sides to reduce that stuck-on look. The best looking modifications are the ones which look like they are meant to be there IMO. Either way, watch this space

Lol as if I would be planning something Custom buttons, of course!

bump

..If I removed the top black layer, would it leave a clear button underneth? Obviously there must be clear somewhere, as the light comes through, but the easier way to manufacutre these I would assume is to use clear plastic and paint over the top, rather than having to use inserts, but then it wouldn't be perfectly smooth. Surely they must be clear under the black coat of paint? Does anyone know..?