rider

Does your car have a FMIC or SMIC? One advantage of a FMIC that I have read is the cooler air input allows the turbo to spool faster which may be a reason. Probably Summer to Winter air temperature does to.

I believe the USA stocks are similar to the UK turbos with steel vanes. The squiffy bhp is similar to what my car dyno tested at around 16 years ago even though it all looks stock under the bonnet bar a small snorting Blitz BOV and there is no boost gauge or controller anywhere. Maybe its just a special engine with whatever Japanese magic dust that was once sprinkled but whatever it was it has proven to be 100% reliable over more than 2 decades. I assume that I have stock ceramic turbos fitted, though I wouldn't know for certain as they have never been removed during my ownership. So the bhp levels are good for a long stress free life, is it worth reaching for that extra 20bhp and risk throwing the cars impregnable reliability out of the wastegate?

I've experience that on my old MG when it had a sticking cable. Try a blob of grease at either end.

Just been emailed a discount code as they have missed me, its been a while. Code: RETURN10 You should be able to work out what the discount level is? Maybe I should try RETURN90 and see what happens?

Gone are the good old days of a traffic PC in his Skoda where you could barter a little. The one and only time I got caught and fined for speeding the copper knocked 10mph off the speed. Its a bit too clinical getting pinged by a far away camera. I think he was probably being nice as he VASCAR timed my progress and after the fact I read somewhere there must be two police in the vehicle to verify a manual timed VASCAR pull so I probably could have contested it seeing he was a lonesome PC. I must have got away with 30,000 miles driving comfortably over the speed limit beforehand though. Sometimes, you just need to fess up and say fair cop.

You wouldn't want to go to Toyota for the Denso condenser as they had it listed as a £350 part when I last checked in with them in 2016. Compared to the Denso part back then that I could land from the USA for for a fraction of the Toyota UK price.

There could be some urgency on this one or It could be the first £50k car seen on the forum pages with 20% VAT and potentially 10% duty from January 1st as a Brexit bonus. There can also also be issues registering a significantly modified car in the UK (similar to issues importing into NZ) though it does often depend on what is declared on the C384 and following V55 registration doc and also if customs are happy to nod it through.

You need to move on the Denso condenser fast as its an item rising in price fast. Whether that is a sign that Denso are or have phased out production or just Supra tax I don't know. But, the part has doubled in price in 3 years. Now available in the USA for around US$100 so I'd expect it'll land somewhere around the £150 mark. The Denso p/n is 4770589 and the drier 4780500.

You will probably be able to polish up the headlights to get those clearer or back to clear. Lots of stuck on plastic has always been an excellent harbinger of rusting metal behind. You will need to look out for some OEM pods so you can replace the damaged sill adornments in your goal to return to stock. These are getting more expensive by the day but last time I looked the silver ones were still available from Toyota. Be prepared to find rust in or on the sills though and if you don't, that'd be a bonus. You have a bit of painting to do anyway as the colour match on the front bumper doesn't look to be a good match to the wings and bonnet. A lot of the stock look is inside the cabin as well with a drive in the cars early years to personalise with different steering wheels and paint the dash every colour imaginable plus cut in the odd extra dial or booster. If the interior is intact and original then you are doing very well. Under the bonnet people are craving standard air boxes as just about everyone fitted a cone filter back in the day. These all got binned so are like hens teeth now so if you have the standard air box that's another big plus in the drive for stock. It looks like a budget £3k project to me just on the outside bits. At the end of the day its all down to what you want from the car. If its to drive and enjoy then money usually isn't the determining factor. If its as an investment then what you can spend is tied to what you paid for it and only you and the former owner are aware of that number.

Front sub-frames don't rust and the front end in general doesn't see the flying dust, grit and stones that the back section does. With the front end, if the hub dust shields are original and in decent condition then everything else will be also. It's big money doing an underside overhaul so not something everyone can afford or even justify, I recon with my own lavish money splurge even with 100 hours of free labour, for every £1 spent it might add 20p to the cars value. As an investment decision, it sucks. If people are worried about rust then its a simple money no object or I really should sell decision as rust is something no 25 year old car was ever designed to survive.

Facelift seats have a noisier pattern, best covered by something like leather.

That's got me reaching for my comfort blanket. One of the things I'm missing already is the date of joining has gone which differentiated from those who have recently joined to those who have been around a while to the founding grandfathers of nearly 20 years ago. Its going to be harder to cut newbies slack on dumb questions if you don't know they haven't been around when the question was asked for the first 20 times already.

I'm pretty sure the UK bar was 2mm thicker. The bars tend to conical wear away from the centre under the rubber bush and finally snap; seeing they are formed from a fairly thin wall hollow tube. If it were mine, having got my welding certificate, I'd probably look into welding a new tube section into the bar in order to retain the original bar. Though yours does look to be badly corroded. You wouldn't know if it is salvageable until you got it off for a good examination.

Toyota are cheap enough for the belt. The rest I sourced elsewhere. The pump came via TCB for a genuine Toyota. £120+VAT from memory. If Toyota are using plastic fins then you'll have plastic fins if you want OEM. If you aren't bothered about OEM then places like RockAuto sell generics with prices starting from only £12. I just wanted a Toyota part seeing the first pump lasted 24 years with no issues.

You didn't understand the fukkers part then?

A thread on a US site suggested that the water pump should be changed every time the cambelt is changed. I never followed that advice, the car has just had its 5th cambelt fitted and I decided to get the garage to change the water pump and thermostat and idler and tensioner whilst there. All those part were original and frankly they looked good for another 25 years. There is no play in the water pump bearing, like none. The OE water pump is around £150 and according to the garage a right pain to fit. So expect pushing £250 including fitting at a garage. At least I know my pump was replaced with a Toyota pump and they may not always be available, though I believe the current pumps use plastic vanes and the originals were metal. So I suspect the newer pumps won't age as well as the original.

You'd probably need to appoint a local solicitor then, but only if they contest the claim and force it to court. If they don't respond to the claim then it automatically gets judged in your favour and its then simply a process of appointing court bailiffs which you can also arrange on the moneyclaim website after judgement. Lots of companies will contest for the hassle of it as it costs them nothing. I'd expect them to do this in your case, assuming that it'll be too much trouble for you so you won't turn up at the court. So, before you file (you may well need to be a UK resident to file using the government service) chat to a few solicitors around Cambridge to get an idea of notice and fees they would want to attend court. If you win these costs will all be added to the judgement settlement anyway, then its just a matter of collecting. As I mentioned that shouldn't present any problem with the stock value they maintain. Chances are, even if they contest it they wouldn't actually turn up themselves so it'd be a automatic judgement to you. You could even suggest to them its not worth your turning up to make it even less likely they will turn up. You don't need to be represented by a solicitor, it can be anyone - just someone who is confident of the details and can talk coherently with the Judge. Maybe there is a forum member near to Cambridge who is also a solicitor who could help you out and attend the court hearing if it went that far.

Sue the fukkers at moneyclaim, a government website. Only costs a few £ to start a court claim which is usually enough to focus minds and you can add any costs incurred to the settlement value you are seeking. The only problems fall if they contest as the court hearing would always be in a court local to the defendant so you'd need to factor in getting from wherever you live to Cambridge area to attend court. If you or your appointed legal representative don't attend then the case is thrown out. But, you can add all costs incurred to your claim and present those to the judge in court. I've sued lots of former customers and never lost a claim. I quite like seeing them squirm after they have messed me around with late payments as the further they dig in the more pain you can inflict. Frozen bank accounts was fun as was a third party debt order on one customers bank account though you do need to have access to their bank details for this to apply. Obtaining bank details is fairly easy, I've just called up the company's accounts people and said I need to arrange a BACS payment to them to clear an invoice or buy a product and always fell over themselves to share their details. From their last accounts they carry about £100k of stock and £20k cash at bank so the bailiffs wouldn't have any problem collecting against a court order. Go have some fun at their expense.

There has to be someone with a new set of front frame cushions sitting on their shelves. If you haven't got a set of diff bushes yet they are still available but the price on those is heading North at a fast pace so best get in early if you need to. When I renewed all the bushes on my rear frame the front cushions looked in pretty good shape. No cracks and firm rubber, unlike the diff supports that had gone a bit spongy relative to the new ones i fitted. So, you may as well just refit the ones you have unless these is something visibly amiss with them.

US suppliers I have stuck to are McGeorge a Toyota dealership in Georgia. RockAuto (I have a thread that I up constantly discount codes for these somewhere on forum) and amazon.com where seller go fulfilled by Amazon to get their cheap transatlantic freight rates. McGeorge is my least favoured because they ship by USPS so you have to pay to clear customs which eats up a few days and also have a hefty RM handling charge on top so I tend to only go to them for genuine Toyota bigger ticket items.

Be very careful ordering from Amayama. They will part ship and cancel items not in stock. I filled out my very last ever order with them to reduce the freight cost impact and all the fluff arrived whilst the part I placed the order for never did, that got refunded. Amayama also have a completely useless parts guarantee. If you buy a part and have a problem then you need a letter from a Toyota mechanic at a Toyota dealership to back up a warranty claim. You then need to arrange the return shipping. Any self fitted or independent garage fitted part is specifically excluded from their guarantee. I contacted Amayama once about a failed part and got told without a supporting letter from Toyota to go away. There are many parts available in the USA from a selection of resellers, Amazon.com and dealerships at a lower price than you can buy the same part in the UK. You do have the added complication of import taxes but duty is usually 4% so no big deal when parts are often 40% cheaper. I've had some parts shipped over from the USA for a total of £6 freight and duty. Lots of UK suppliers charge £10 for delivery. So, I'd look to the USA before UAE for new parts. I've used many USA sources and all have been excellent with any damaged items refunded without any questions raised. I've even received things I've not ordered or cancelled before shipping and been told to keep those at no cost as they cannot be bothered arranging a return from the UK. First stop though should always be your local Toyota dealership who will always give a 10% discount if you ask for it. I use my local dealer for parts that can get damaged, like brake lines. So you can them view before you buy when you pick them up. Also in the first line is your forum favourites of TCB Parts and the local stripper Keron. So shop around for the best deals, but the UAE is well off my list of places to go.

The Japanese OEM wheels were all 16". With 7j width fitting standard 225/50R16. It's rare to find the OE wheel in a 16" 8j to take a wider rear tyre. Its acceptable to fit the UK or Euro spec OEM 17" wheels onto a jspec. They are hard to find though. If you struggle to find a 8j wheel then you can go up to a 235 tyre on the 7j to get a wider tyre on the rear. There is a 17" OEM set for sale in the for sale section of this site at the moment. You probably need to become a member to view that. They don't come up very often so you may want to check it out sooner rather than later.

You've taken your pic from the other side to the picture I took so its hard to tell. This is the pic I took looking into the space. [URL="https://old.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=222627&d=1506779705"]https://old.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=222627&d=1506779705[/URL]

68101-14220 pre-facelift 68101-14230 facelift

I bought a spare green tint one a few years back but I believe these are discontinued now. So don't throw away your old one when you replace it as someone will likely need it at some time, scratched or not.