rider

Go for the highest on the scale on the blue scale and ratchet down till you get a reading. No resistance means you have no circuit. If the scale is too high it'll still show a response just wont register a meaningful number till you get on the correct scale.

One of the previous threads on this car.

There has been a couple of people post about this car already asking for advice re purchasing it. Seems neither took the plunge for whatever reason. Probably end up with a new milometer and be sold in six years time as a low mileage stock UK.

The car has been relisted in spite of gaining several bids on the last auction, maybe the shill bidding didn't work or he just got let down? Kind of weird it keeps on getting an immediate bid on a long auction though. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-supra-RZ-big-single-turbo-/222399802223?hash=item33c80fab6f:g:8Y8AAOSw9GhYghiv

I'd imagine the big issue here is if LED your a/c controls you'd need to LED the entire interior otherwise it'll be like a bright beacon in the cab. I've only done LED on instruments where the old 2.2W bulbs are like candles at a thousand paces. You did say you prefer the stock carbon fibre look so whichever you choose I'm sure plenty will love it and no one is going to hate it which is the main issue with mods. Why alienate some of your prospective market were it ever come to time to sell?

Speed is never an issue, its that people firstly think they are better drivers than they are and secondly don't anticipate that every other driver may well not do what they are expected to do in certain situations. I've been speeding for almost 40 years and never had a ticket. Everything has its time and its place and if people drive safely at speed with a good nose for PC Panda then fines should be nothing more than an unfortunate anomaly.

Seeing I only pay myself £7,800 a year to be just above the NI threshold I quite like this new system of fines set relative to weekly salary. Doesn't mention anywhere that they calculate in dividend income. So company owners and those who are self employed should be all good with this.

A is more stock so guess which floats my boat. If you are doing LED panel lights and struggling to decide colours you really should go for variable mood LED lighting in the foot well then you can change it whenever you feel the need to. http://www.instructables.com/id/Car-Interior-LED-Lighting-Multicolor/

There are usually a few for sale in the USA with the larger 220mm option but not cheap - circa $3k. So I'd guess at £4k landed duty paid. Have you asked Keron if he has any sitting on his shelf or about to come up from a fresh break, he might do a trade in price for you on your unit.

Any additional bits of advice on this subject. I've got a set of SGS struts ready to go.

There are a couple of NA manuals just been listed on fleabay. A 93 red and a 96 black. the Black one looks OK.

I was looking last week at the prices of Supras in Australia and they seem quite keen relative to Japanese current prices. Would the fresh imports into SA normally come via Japan or Australia? Anyway, you should check out the Aussie prices as that could be a good way to get hold of a Supra.

I'm looking into R35s as a potential car purchase. Still very much at the early reading learning stage at the moment so not ready to take the plunge until I feel I know a bit about what to look for. Seems a fair few of the early low mileage R35s have had new gearboxes or engines (I thought they were a paired unit?), are these a particular weakness? There is a trade stage 4.5 listed on eBay for mid 30's so would appreciate knowing what in the R35 World adds value. Like in the Supra World a TT6 is the one to go for what spec R35 is the best option in the £30k to £40k range? Also wondering whether to push the budget to a later model as I recall reading that brings a longer service interval which would be better suited to my low mileage use. Any pearls of wisdom greatly appreciated. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2009-Nissan-GT-R-Black-Edition-LITCHFIELD-STAGE-4-5-700BHP-/272539822808?hash=item3f74a3aad8:g:JrIAAOSw5cNYj1oB

Its much cheaper to buy in parts from Toyota parts suppliers in the USA even at $1.20 = £1. The USA prices are about half what the discounted Toyota UK prices are so still 20%+ cheaper landed duty and VAT paid than the discounted Toyota price. Amayama are even cheaper but they will short ship if parts are out of stock or discontinued. I had an instance two weeks ago on bushes that were paid and then refunded but they refused to cancel the remainder of the order which loaded the freight impact considerably on the shipped parts. At least the US suppliers will follow instructions and only quote on parts they have in stock or can source. For small order I have used Keron and always found the pricing good and way below the Toyota UK price. For larger orders it still pays to bring your own orders in from Toyota dealers or Auto parts suppliers in Japan, UAE or USA over Toyota UK.

Its worth trying a USB firmware update before giving up on it: http://www.kenwood.com/cs/ce/mm/firmware/2012/2012a/pdf/12MM_DDX_FWupdate_en.pdf http://www.kenwood.com/cs/ce/mm/firmware/2012/2012a/eng.html

The stock Supras have become a rare collectors piece but there has to be a point where the money on demand opens up a whole host of alternative metal. The Supras strength was its ridiculously low cost pathway to silly HP and a great many have gone that way. As a collectors piece I cannot see many stock cars being sold anymore, because there are so few left and their owners don't seem keen to sell, so it'll become increasingly down to what comes in fresh from Japan. For the OP, JM Imports have an interesting Facelift TT6 landing soon for £17.5k (negotiable). Its not my colour choice.

Any colour? Any age? Any mileage? Any price? Anywhere?

Its a bit expensive for an auto would be a good reason why its lingering. The pictures look like the door colour doesn't match the rest of the other paint so it'd be worth checking that the sill hasn't been damaged/repaired. I think I recall it being advertised for £12k before it then got re-advertised for £15k so it is probably a wheeler dealer selling after sealing it off the old man who owned it beforehand. So the car probably owes the trader £10k.

It may be something peculiar to Auto Air paints where the colour is layer number and layer density dependent and you apparently don't know what colour you are spraying until it dries. There was a thread from the previous owner who mentioned following a collision when hit by another car the entire car was re-sprayed to ensure a colour match. I'd be surprised if the insurer agreed to that if it wasn't necessary.

I have a switch just like that on the chip fryer. If you were in the UK I'd say it's got to be fog lights switch on a jspec import. As you are in Germany presumably you have a Euro but the pics look like a rhd jspec dash panel. So lets stick to its the fog light switch.

Refer this thread http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?306415-Getrag-V160-leaking-oil-Help-needed-to-find-correct-seal(s) I think there are two seals 90080-31031 90080-31029 Best to talk to CW - he isn't always instant at PM responses as he is a busy guy but you can call him and he can give you the definitive.

Isn't the inner seal just a sealant strip? In which case if you have a leak then that will have failed.

I didn't do the immediate checkout, going the quote option essentially paying more to ensure the parts were available. Then got an email a few days later saying sorry part out of production with no plans to make any more. Refunded the missing parts but did refused my request to cancel and refund the entire order. That is something that will only happen more rather than less often. If you go American you need to start saving especially if looking to a fresh import with the exchange rate being what it is today. If you do ever do a serious look at a US import I can point you to some decent contacts for shipping agent and Forex. It'd give you a good reason to take a US holiday to go look at cars with a view to buy. If I was to do that again I'd take two or three weeks out to go look a car in the metal rather than buy unseen as I did with my Mustang. - - - Updated - - - I have space. if I don't need them then I can always sell them. Parts like the cars are going up in cost.