pjavon

Can anyone enlighten me as to what this is? The pipe goes up through the floor pan. Believe it or not I can't find a spanner to fit the bolt heads and I'm pretty sure even when I do they aren't going to move much:;( Am I going to need it when I put the decats in?

I like it, one in gunmetal colour to match my wheels would be nice:)

Got my BOV flange welded on now, thats all the intercooler pipework ready as much as I can without the Turbo in place. I'll leave polishing the pipes until after I've fitted everything so I only have to do it once, I HATE polishing ally:(

Thats a stunner, paint looks fantastic in that first pic

Haha No i'm getting a bit impatient now, hopefully with in the next month or so. I'm just trying to get as much done as I can while I can still move it about under it's own steam as I can't push it in and out of my bigger garage due to a big lip. So once the engine out I'm going to be under a garage door working away and with the rain we've been having I don't want to much of that:)

Great, thanks mate. I'll get that welded on ready as well then before I go for the engine swap.

Can anyone see a problem with putting the BOV in this position? The only minor one I can think of is routing the vacuum hose to it neatly and discreetly.

Thank you Great thats good to know, thanks for the info again you've been a big help mate. Good news, it should be OK then Thank you, really appreciate the comment. I'm not set on power yet, just want to get it running nice first but I am hoping for at least stock TT power. Thanks mate, comments like that make the work worth while. Thanks mate, ive replied and hope it helps a bit. Feel free to pm away mate, I did to other people:d

That looks stunning, keep up the good work and ideas so I've got something to copy in the future:D If you put MKIII 440 injectors in you'll need some resistors or resistor pack, thats what I got told anyway. Got mine of Chris Wilson. They do just plug in but you'll have to shave the lugs off on the injectors as they don't line up.

I've decided I'm going to put a FMIC on my car, I was going the stock TT side mount route but the condition of the one I bought is just not good enough for me to be sure it's going to last any length of time and the after market ones are to expensive. Anyway after much deliberation I've gone this route now, infact ones on it's way to me. I've been playing with my pipework and obviously there's some trimming needed but this is how I'm planning the return to the intake. I'm going to weld the ally bracket to the pipe for some support where it goes through the inner wing so with the other end fixing to the FMIC I'm hoping it should be stable enough? - - - Updated - - - Got my intercooler mounted tonight, some of the pipes that were in the kit fitted better than my others as well so I'll use them. I need another black reducer though, ebay again:oo

EGT gauge bung ready for welding tomorrow in work Now welded and I've finished off the manifold wrapping. I had some more intercooler pipe arrive today as I didn't have enough so done a little mock up for a play:D I'll be welding the joint in the middle above the turbo though. As I'm only going for relatively small numbers and I want an 'as stock a drive as possible' I've gone for a Stage 2 competition clutch. Just hope it hold now.

I think that looks great, not to sure on the orange bases but I understand what your saying. A good quality video would be great for those of us that aren't likely to see it in real life anytime soon:thumbs:

Thats what I think as well.

Couldn't agree more, if you just want more power then go TT. If the thought of a learning curve and you want to be a LITTLE bit different then look into. If you think doing some research is to much trouble then don't bother as I spend nights trying to gather up genuine information, it's all part of the build.

How far is an EGT probe supposed to stick into the manifold. My gauges didn't come with a boss so I had to buy one and the probe sticks into the manifold about 10mm. Is this enough or should I cut the boss down a little so it sticks in further.

Ive already pm'd Keron mate, he uses them on his NA-TT conversions so the answer was no I'm affraid:( The lad I had the engine off swapped it for a TT so I guess thats why it's missing. At worst I can cut the one off the loom on my fitted engine but I didn't really want to hack that apart, looks like I've got no choice now.

My looms been cut so I need a plug desperately. It's the one in front of the fuse box with 3 wires going into it, anyone got an old loom they don't mind cutting up;)

Oh the looms been cut, need a plug now.

I've just been out and started marking up the dangling wires for when I swap the engines over on my NA-T. The problem is I've got some connectors MISSING!!. One on the steering rack and one big one that looks like it should connect at the front of the fuse box. The engine was out of a 95 manual NA and mine is a 94 manual NA so I just assumed the were the same. The only difference I think there could of been is mine has ABS and maybe the other car didn't. Anyone else ever come across this and how would I go about sorting this out, wiring is not my strong point:(

He said just under 70,000 miles from memory, I'd say I do shorter journeys in the car if that does make a difference. Is Kam right then?

Yeah I totally agree mate, I really meant should I be considering anything special or is any decent grade oil ok. What have you used in yours? Thanks dunk, seems a goog choice. Which grade do you use 10w-40?

What oil should I be putting in my na-t. Should I go for the same as the single turbos on the oil thread or would a cheaper option be ok?

That looks fantastic, fair play

Thank you Lee, what a very good write up. That has cleared a fair few things up in my head about dyno's, although I've never put to much faith in the figures they produce anyway. I especially liked the part about rising up on the rollers, I didn't realise that why they done it like that.

I'm sure ScottM done his.