LOGIE

Remove steering wheel again. Basically retrace your steps slowly and carefully checking for the obvious ie damaged connections/wires.

Id start by looking in the project cars section. RyanG has done this already. Lots of good info as to where to get you custom bellhousing and flywheel

Personally id remove the bootlid then sand off all rust and apply a coat of kurust from hammerite. Then lightly prime and paint again l. Its in a place that wont be seen so your painting skills dont need to be A1

This is a bit on and off topic. Does anyone know where I/we can but a box of stainless steel nuts and bolts of various sizes? Quality stuff only please. All too often does things grind to a halt due to not having the right bolt etc.

How did you get on with this Barney?

Yep I noticed my active was deploying at 55/60 ish so im quite happy. I also have a manualised controller which I disconnected just to confirm. Can also exceed 112mph with ease.

if anyone has one of these steel pipes (rear one) PLEASE let me know. SPG is looking to see if he has any but if he doesn't a backup would be great. Cheers.

Im thinking about leaving it at kms like you said. Changing to uk clocks can effect the power steering? Anyone else heard about this?

Cheers Scott. I havent gave up on the V8 dream I quizzed you about. That was an awesome car you build I really wanted to buy it when you had it up for sale but funds didn't allow.

It may be an NA-TT auto but I changed EVERYTHING including dash and bulkhead loom then the engine BAY loom. It now has stock traction control which prob won't ever get used but I just wanted to do the conversion right. It also has TT electric fans which is another thing that usually gets left out on NA-TT. So I think the only difference between my car and a original TT is the vin plate.

Hah yeah mate you had a TT autobox, TT LSD, driveshafts, and TT prop all up for sale in a oner for a VERY reasonable price. It was this that made me go for it and do the conversion as most of the parts were goint to be a pain to locate. So thanks for that deal mate. I remember.it taking me neay and hour to unwrap and untie it from the pallet.

Just for those interested I bought one of these off Andrew when he started doing them and they work perfectly and are simple to install.

Hah cheers. Ive been for a short blast today feels awesome. 2nd turbo kicks in very strong at 4krpm It was always in my head during the build whether to buy spare turbos in case 2nd turbo was on its road out but it was perfect. I have a few little niggles that I need to sort so ill need to visit toyota and get raped AGAIN soon no point putting up a wanted ad as they are parts that members just wont have.

After over a year doing my NA-TT conversion I got it finished and put it through its MOT and it passed ok with a 3 small advisories which I was expecting. 1+2. both rear tyres close to legal limit approx 2.5mm (I knew about this.) 3. Bolt broken in rear axle strut brace. The head had sheared off when I tried to unnecessarily remove the struts to change my NA LSD to a TT LSD. Im going to change them as they have a fair bit of surface rust. But at least I can get on the road THIS summer and enjoy the car again with its new heart and lungs.

Ok by reading whats written in the device "if" I install the device again but only the GREY and BLUE wires will this make my odometer go up in miles again?

Yep as scooter says. I nearly went vvti when I done my NA-TT. Vvti uses an electronic "drive by wire" throttle. Which throws up all sorts of complications. I opted for pre vvti in the end which was much simpler and pre vvti engines are essier to tune if you ever decide to go beyond BPU.

This also worked on my mk1 rav4 (turn the ignition to "on" then lock-unlock 7 times (using central locking button on drivers door)then hold lock and unlock together for a few secs on fob and this put your fob code into the central locking ECU and you could put a total on 3 different fobs into 1 ecu. If toyota were doing it to their cars then chances are supra will be the same.

The box under the drivers seat is the central locking ecu. Box under passenger seat is amp I think

Try reversing or drawing forward very slowly with your steering on full lock. (This is not good for the power steering pump though) you inner rear wheel will judder and skip if you have a LSD. Or so ive been lead to believe.

BOTH WHEELS SPUN....so 2 black lines? (11) you have a LSD. But me being me id need to take the plate off the back just to be awkward.

Right bare with me on this please ill try and explain as best as I can. Ive got uk clocks in my jspec car. When it had j spec clocks it had one of these speed limit converters which done a great job of making my speedo read in MPH and my odometer went up on MILES. I like the look of UK clocks so ok fit them and put all the original wiring behind the dash back to standard. Everything works and reads correctly and I can easily exceed 112mph so no limiter. However my odometer is now going up in KILOMETRES. Is it possible to refit this but only to make it go up in MILES again without effecting the speedo?

Ideal 1st one looks ideal shane. Thanks.

Thanks for the input guys.Is running one cooler alone enough for bpu or should I run with stock cooler also?

Ive got a grand vitara 2.5 V6 as my runabout but lately the engine has a rattle noise coming from it (worse on start up but never goes completely) its only done 50kmiles and had the oil changed every 5-6k miles so im doubting its the timing chain. Any suggestions before I hand it over to my tame extortionist local mechanic? Cheers.

I know the SRD ones look to be good quality for the money. Im just wondering what else anyone else is running? Setrab etc and what sizes yous went for? Did you use braided hoses due to where its located? Cheers for any input guys.