Scott

Supra's were selling then though... for big money too. A lot of the BIG singles sold around the same time for good money. Lots of European buyers willing to pay top money. They are still there of course, but the money isn't quite as high as it was before. There are a lot of nice Supras at the moment that people are struggling to sell for less money than they should be.

I don't blame you mate. The only thing keeping me sane is knowing that I'm doing it to keep it lol. If I had any intention of selling I wouldn't even be considering it.

Has to be at least 20K. I think the only thing holding it back from being nearer to 30K is that it was an N/A Auto to begin with. Even though absolutely everything has been changed the chassis no. will still hold people back. Much like the whole N/A-TT what's it worth. 6spd big single aero TRD widebody with the most OCD and custom work ever seen.... doesn't get much better than that.

As Josh said, you're missing Si's point. As the box you are selling is so rare he is thinking of buying it off you so that he can then replicate it and make generic copies of it to sell on for other members. That way the branded version itself will be rare but the function will be readily available. Win win win IMO. You sell your box, members get a cheaper alternative and Si gets a few bob in his pocket for his trouble.

Do you know you can wind the electric seat in manually?

Found the bung/stopper. This can come along with as well....

Yeah, it also says "Not available".

Would the softer compound not affect the handling though? Or would it just be the longevity? I just had a run through the parts on Toyo and there is a bush shown in the diagram for the Strut..... yet the drawing number says "not applicable". Very strange.

I just went through it all. The only bushes replaced are the following... Front Upper - Both Rear Upper - Both Rear Strut Rod - There only is one I'm thinking that perhaps when it's been asked about in the past people have only considered the front lowers or something? And because they couldn't find a number for those assumed there wasn't any replacement numbers for the bushes.

A quickie of the rear....

Looking awesome!

It's a body kitted Laguna! http://www.renaultcarpic.com/images/2011-renault-laguna-1.jpg http://www.renaultcarpic.com/images/2011-renault-laguna-14.jpg

Pics as promised. I'm going to take it into work tomorrow and give it a good clean for the new owner

New shaped celica? Looks like a laguna to me

I was looking into this a couple of weeks ago. The PE bearings are 6 sizes and are said to be the best available. I would just go with stock rings, but I would still replace them if I was in there

The bearings in particular. There is so little difference between OEM and aftermarket that I would personally go aftermarket with a known decent brand. Gives headroom for any future mods too. Changing the bearings and the rod bolts are taking out the well known weak areas of the stock block Piston rings would be next on the list for me.

I know it's been said numerous times that the wishbones and arms are a replacement item but I just wanted to get some clarification and perhaps a fresh perspective from people who work for Toyota or close to them. My reason for asking is that in the manual for the suspension it clearly tells you to remove the bushes and replace them with new ones. It even explains the proceedure for doing so making reference to numerous tooling, presses etc. The only time it says to replace the arm is when the balljoint is faulty IIRC. Surely if the manual says this then the parts must exist somewhere to do the overhaul on these components? Is it at all possible that these parts wouldn't be referenced in the IPC? I just can't understand why there would be an instruction to do something in the official manual without the actual availability of parts to do it. Thanks

Not as well going aftermarket?

Got there in the end

"f"...

Work meister s1 wheels IIRC. Will be around 30-40 bolts, regular size rather than small or large. 20lbs wouldn't worry me in the slightest but it never hurts to contact the manufacturer

"o"...

"i"...

Sikaflex 221 Edit: I think 552 is stronger but I you want to be able to remove it if need be lol.

Pretty sure that's an HKS Ti (same as mine). The back end of it is titanium IIRC, the main 4" drainpipe is stainless