Chris and Alana

Well, due to being messed about twice now and holding this for over 3 months for people its now yet again back up for sale! It's a Trust Greddy Power extreme 2 cat back SS exhaust, I think the hanger on the back box is broke but should be an easy repair for an exhaust fabricator-it has a minor scuff on the bottom of the middle silencer from scrapping the deck but is completely cosmetic and obviously not noticable as its half way down the car. Apart from that its in good condition. Im wanting £300 for it. WILL NOW TAKE £250 NO OFFERS NO DIBBS-FIRST TO ME WITH THE MONEY CAN HAVE IT! MUST BE COLLECTION ONLY! NO COURIER'S CASH ON COLLECTION

it sounds like they have put it into the wrong hose

after a quick search there seems to be 3 types of manual boost controller Bleed valve - works as I said Ball and spring - works as scott M said Diaphragm type - found little info so far just some info on what they do http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boost_controller

were they not refered to as bleed valves in the past? as you said I suppose there are different types

sounds like they have done something which is not too good Got any pics of where they have fitted it? A manual boost controler just vents some of the pressurised air to atmosphere instesd of allowing it to open the wastegate so in theory when fully shut you should have stock boost or what ever the RR is set at and fully open would be bad. it sounds like they might have pulled a hose off somewhere by mistake/didnt relise and you simply have a boost leak. other than that your tubbies have bit the dust

Hi guy's, looking for a pair of rear clear lenses from the pre facelift rear lights to remove the rear orange indicator lenses

bump

I am trying for more as most people do and what is on my list to do before my next run is Heat shield the induction cone and add a cold air feed Fit water/meth injection Raise boost to 1.2bar Duct the intercooler and rad properly A full service again I want a PAS and engine oil cooler Possibly a Mines ECU or similar Dont know what gains I will get, but I would be happy with 420-430bhp I know the injectors will hate me but its been done before

Me? When I ran the car and got 401bhp I had everything that is listed in my garage. What I added/changed since my other 370bhp run was:- I changed the Miami gt SMIC for a Toyosport FMIC Gave it a service with new diff and atf fluid (also added a ATF cooler) Removed the second cat as this was in place on the 370bhp run turned the boost up on the EBC (i was trying to make 1.2bar but failed by 1.3bar, maybe nextime) put my induction kit on Had the same NGK iridiums in as previous run (could do with a change now) I think thats it

I just made 401bhp at just less than 1.1bar (1.07 to be exact) spec in my garage if you want to compare, the graph in my garage was from a previous run at the same dyno running just under 1bar but I have also changed a couple things since then.

The one I put a link to that I fitted (2nd one) had a perfect fit, even got the stock rad expansion bottle just about in its stock location above the cooler. The only thing I had to do was slightly move some of the A/C hoses which is normal and fabricate some brackets for the intercooler. £200 delivered is a bargain to me. If some people are so concerned that a 'cheap' ebay cooler isnt as efficient as a £1000 greddy or blitz (or even a £400 greddy 3 row) why not buy the 'cheap' ebay cooler and then buy a pressure regulated water/meth injection system for about £200 which will cool down intake temps more than any sized intercooler could. Even if you dont map for it it will offer further protection to the engine running high boost at BPU or whatever. Iv even read it helps keep the engine, valve's, seats etc clean over time.

This one looks very good value for money and is the one I wanted a while ago but they ran out of stock http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-SUPRA-FRONT-MOUNT-INTERCOOLER-KIT-JZA80-2JZGTE_W0QQitemZ170388303744QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item27abef2f80 This is the one I ended up buying and it is a very good fit, had no problems with installation and sit's very well behind my top secret front http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FMIC-TOYOTA-SUPRA-2JZGTE-FRONT-MOUNT-INTERCOOLER-KIT_W0QQitemZ200406957484QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item2ea92f7dac and heres another cheapy http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-SUPRA-JZA80-2JZ-GTE-FRONT-MOUNT-INTERCOOLER-KIT_W0QQitemZ350254318294QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item518cc8c2d6

PM sent

3 gauge pod sold pending payment

more stuff added

pics added

No proplem, I will keep it for you until you see the pics (which I will add tomorrow hopefully)

Well, I have to get rid of some stuff lying about as Alana is going mental over the state of the garage Anyway heres the stuff, I'll add more as and when I find it. All prices plus P&P - also open to sensible offers. TT Apexi Panel Filter used but in good condition £25 £20 Standard TT Panel Filter never used (not from Toyota) £10 Trust Greddy Power extreme 2 cat back SS exhaust, I think the hanger on the back box is broke but should be an easy repair for an exhaust fabricator-aprt from that in very good condition £320 AS GOOD AS SOLD Spark Plug Cover (pre VVTi) in good condition £30 Stock J-spec suspension Springs done 50k miles ish £30 Rubber SMIC Pipework (the 2 in the engine bay) £10 Old Toyota SMIC in OK condition-No leaks and most fins intact-usefull if yours is completely shot I supose £15 Stock Air con rad fan £10 SOLD The 5 Standard turbo pipes £55 £50 Charcoal canister (shoe not included) £15 Type R boost gauge opened ages ago but never fitted (cannot find electric adaptor/transformer yet) £7 as is Random universal 3 gauge A pillar pod for 52mm gauges never fitted or used (not supra specific) £10 SOLD First cat converter for J-spec TT £25

Thank you, Iv just sent an email

looks horrible, is an N/A and costs 7k, its a joke to me. Oh and 320bhp

So this is how it should be done then

thank you Its not a very big job at all but there is also no clear instructions or a pic of how it should look afterwards to go off which makes it a bit of a pain, but never mind.

I have read so far that if the pipework is bypassed in the right way it suckes the fumes back into the intake and away they go. If the pipe from the fuel tank is just left to vent to atmosphere and more than likely in the engine bay then you would get a smell of petrol.

Gives me room for a nice shiney oil catch can

No that article isnt very clear yet every thread I have looked at keeps refering to it As far as gather from trying to understant the pipework, you should cap the pipe running next to the plenum (which seems to be connected to the pressure tank and therefore must be under postive pressure to purge the canisiter) and join the two at the bulkhead (one being from the fuel tank and the other goes to the intake side of the TT setup so should be under negitive pressure to pull the fumes out the fuel tank) but Im not 100% sure and that would mean that the pic in post 2 is wrong.