Chris and Alana

I'm eating sweet and sour chicken, mmmmm.

good prize to win this one It was one thing on my list to buy, would be a good christmas prezy.

I just did aswel bit cold, washing ice of the car took a while too, lol.

I had a similar thing happen to me. I was going along a DC and put the foot down and the back stepped out a little but you can adjust the straight line slip if you want. I adjusted mine to 2% and it reacts so much quicker. I done the same test in the wet and RLTC just does a gentle cut before you even feel the back slide out and keeps it pointing in a straight line, worked a treat. It doesnt bog down from a standing start either so I'm happy with mine

I'm a after a 1bar rr please if any one has one for sale. Thank's

I think Chris2o2 is after an EBC, you will find him at the bottom of this thread http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=134430 maybe worth a PM though.

Just collecting all the bits I need to install an EBC and after reading this http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/blitz_dsbc/index.html I need 4 1/4" vacuum cap's to cap off some open ends. Where can I get them from? or what can I use? Thank's

I suppose your right. So in keeping the 2nd cat while using an EBC will more than likely cause more stress on the turbo's and may cause higher EGT's. Although it works fine at the moment with my current setup allowing natural boost against the resistance of the cat, the cat will offer no benifit's what so ever (performance wise or turbo life wise) when I introduce an EBC into the equation. Infact it could do more harm than good. Best to get rid of then. Thanks for the input guy's, it's been helpful

EGT's were one concern as I would be putting extra stess on the turbo's to force gases through the cat when I enable the EBC compared to letting it create boost naturally. I have read as well that keeping a cat (not only helps getting an MOT) but can also help with the life of the turbo's. Something to do with helping keep back pressure on the turbo seal's and preventing turbo seal failure. Is this correct?

It way over boosts with the second cat on it's own. I seen 18-20psi when the first cat was taken out before it hit fuel cut (before I fitted a FCD) and I'm sure it would have continued to creep higher. I then added a rr as wel and it allowed me to keep a steady 1bar boost. I would remove the second cat if there are any benefits of doing so but if I wont see any gain's I might as wel save my money or put it else where.

See my garage for specs if need be but I currently run a Nur spec R and a First decat (I still have the second cat in place) and currently see about 1bar boost. I have now recently purchased an EBC (Blitz Dual SBC Spec R) and intend to run 1.2bar max (have 3 settings - 1) 1bar 2) 1.1bar 3)1.2bar ) anyway, I don’t have an AFR gauge and although I have had my car on the rollers recently and the AFR's are spot on, would the ecu be able to add fuel sufficiently to compensate for increased boost? and the main question I was wondering is would it be beneficial to remove the second cat and run 1.2bar controlled by the EBC (with a 1bar rr) compared to running 1.2bar controlled by the EBC with the second cat still installed? In other words would I see any more power from removing the second cat under the same situations, if you know what I mean. Thanks guy's.

I think there are 2 spots where rust normally appears over time:- 1) In-between the boot and the roof (you have to have a look in-between the gap when the boot is shut) every car Iv looked at has rust here. 2) Underneath the black plastic trim where the window wiper gubins’s are located. Water must settle there a lot and cause this

I payed £350 for RLTC second hand (not the digital version but it did have launch control (Unfortunatly it's usless on the auto)) and I fitted it myself. I believe fitting is about £150 - £200 as far as I can remember from the quote I had. The stock TC is not so good so it doesnt take much to beat it but RLTC is amazing for the money and it reacts so fast. One of the best bits of kit I'v bought so far for the soop. It's programable through a laptop aswel and has adjustable settings from 0% slip upto 30% slip (and off if you feel like it) Anyway, I feel it's worth the money and you feel safer knowing that there is a good TC system looking after you just incase something goes ball's up.

Go on then I'll have it How do you want payed? (Is £114.40 correct) Thanks.

Thanks, It looks very tidy from the pic's. Is there any damage to it (scratches on the display etc) and you say it works perfectly? It's a good price and although I'm looking for a second decat at the moment I may well have this instead it's not often they come around in very good condition (second hand) for a good price.

How old is it? I may well have this

Looking for a second decat pipe for a j-spec 93 TT please. Preferably with a flange (and bung) for a wideband sensor but please let me know what you have as I may also be interested in a 'normal' decat pipe at the right price Cheers.

oop's well maybe it will get a few people looking in here

My car seems to have developed a disliking to the cold weather in the morning's When I usually start the engine first thing in the warmer weather the car rev's to about 1500rpm straight away and gradually reduces as it get's warmer. However, as the cold weather has come in I go out, start the car and the rev's stay low at about 500rpm for about 5 seconds and then gradually rise to 1500rpm and then go back down as it get's warm as usual. Now this seems to get worse as the mornings get colder I went out this morning and turned her over and the revs stayed low and the car coughed and spluttered and stalled on me. I then turned the key again and blipped the throttle and she revved at 1500rpm as usual. What would cause this ? it has me stumped just to add the car is fine all day long after the initial start up and it turns over straight away.

Would installing larger cam's still retain the gap between pistons and valves (keeping it a non-interference engine)?

I used halfords advance coolant, it is ethylene glycol based and it's not too expensive. I think it was about £15 for 4.5l concentrate.

Yeah, I get the point. I may see if I can scrape some sort of deal for 4 tyres and get them all changed while I'm there. If I cant I may change the 2 rear's soon. What tyres do you guy's have at the mo? are they good in the wet? I dont want to start another tyre thread it's just I have Eagle F1's at the mo and from what I'v read you cant get them anymore (well at the minute anyway)

If they were worn and needed changed soon I would have definatley just changed them but they are probably just about half worn which is a bummer and yes I do take it easy in the winter, most the time I drive like an old lady just to be safe infact even in the summer Im very carefull (just the odd bit of fun) I see your point with the percentage thing but will the tyre blow out if things go wrong? I would have thought it would just slowley deflate with it just being a small round hole (nail size)

I would love to just replace the tyre but I dont have the money at the mo being close to christmas etc I think I would have to change both rears at the same time aswell and at over £160 a corner my wallet decided to grow legs and run away. ( the repair was only £12). but I figured I normally take it easy in the winter with the bad weather and roads and I might replace all 4 tyres in the spring/summer when the weather gets constantly better (if there is such a time). I was just wondering if a repair like that is ok on such high powered cars and maybe the odd bit of fun if there are any dry roads ahead