Chris and Alana

The price of supra's can be a wierd thing from what I have been reading. Some people think they are worth millions, other penny's I think if you want top bucks your car would have to be in mind condition with a nice setup. Again some people prefer standard cars other prefer an already nicely setup BPU car. What price did you have in mind? I think TT still range from about 6K for a not so nice example (however there are bargin's out their) upto about 9-10k for an absolutly sminted auto or really nice 6speed. (in my opinion)

I would get a BIG set of grip's to undo the big black plastic 'nut' if you like. Alot of people suggest useing a bit of wood or a screwdriver and and a hammer but it rips the grip parts to shread's. (It will make more sense when you have a look) oh and make sure you have everything you need to fit the new pump so you dont have to spend hours looking for bit's with your car in bit's. I also found it usefull to pull the electric supply plug (ontop of the pump) off, open the filler cap and tern the engine over to get rid of the fuel pressure before disconnecting the fuel line. There will still be petrol coming out but no where near as much (in my experience) Good Luck.

I have removed the first cat (kept the second) and stuck a nur spec R on. After that it easilly overboosted to 18-20psi (you would need a restrictor ring to hold back boost as I did) so the potential for BPU perforance is there but you should really read the BPU article that homer put a link to, it's very usefull and will inform you about supporting mods. One thing to bear in mind is that the first cat is more restrictive so if you decide to ditch the second cat instead of the first you may not get a huge increase in boost. You will also allow more heat to enter the engine bay as cat's retain heat and the first cat is right at the back/bottom/center of the engine bay.

What spec are the UK cam's? Also do you need to run a piggy back ECU or similar to adjust fueling or will everything run fine just installing new cams?

There are pics in my garage of them installed also I really like them along with the chrome bezel's, really help's modernise the dash

AFR stand's for 'Air Fuel Ratio' you can monitor it by having an AFR gauge installed or you can have the AFR's checked by taking it to a rolloing road and they stick a probe up the exhaust and it let's you know whether the car is running spot on, rich or lean. A little rich is ok and infact prefered (they are like that as stock I beleive) but if you are running lean worth at least a check on the dyno if you go BPU, plus you get to find out roughly how much bhp your making at the same time.

I dont have an AFR gauge and even though I took all precautions (new fuel pump, fuel filter , colder plugs etc) I didnt just want to crank it upto 1.2bar without having the AFR's checked first and 1bar seemed a nice inbetween. I also coudnt be bothered to file the rr down anymore after I had it in and out the car for almost a day trying to get a nice steady boost and gave up at about 1bar. It does make 1.1bar in the cold but normally the roads are to slippy to boot it when the temp's drop

I don't know to be honest, I think the general consensus is that you increase 10-15bhp for every 0.1bar of additional boost. If that is the case then around the 400bhp mark should be achievable. Also fitting an EBC will/should give full boost earlier and hold it longer, so additional boost along with keeping it held longer may well give me a 30bhp increase. The only way to tell is to do it and get it dyno'd again at the same place.

Thank's guy's, the reason I ask is that I would like to have stock boost for reliability and help on fuel for most driving (boost controller turned off) and then have the low and high settings at 1.0bar and 1.2bar. it just gives me a nice varied level of boost to chose from depending on how I feel like driving oh, thought I would mention I still have my second cat in and when I got a 1bar rr it held boost to about 0.9bar to maybe 1.0bar in the cold of winter. I know there is little restriction from the second cat because when I first got my nur spec on and first decat I way overboosyed to 18-20psi before the rr so I know it will reach 1.2bar ok. Anyway I was just wondering if this caused more stress on the turbos as instead of naturally being allowed to create boost they are being forced to create more and this must have an effect on the turbo life and egt's. Anyway, look forward to your experiences hodge.

That's a very good price

Hi guy's, I was just thinking about something the other day. If you put a rr in the exhaust (after decat and performance exhaust) to give you stock boost 0.8-0.9bar, then you install an EBC to raise boost to 1.2bar, will this create more stress on the turbo's and give you higher EGT's than if you had a rr allowing 1.2bar to happen naturally?

I tried posting a copy up but I cant get the file size small enough from my computer I did manage to get a copy of it into my garage if you want to take a look in there but it's not the best quality after I tried to shrink it.

The Greddy Profec B spec 2 gets recommended alot aswel. I'm torn between the greddy and the blitz nic recommended myself

Well I'v been meaning to do it for a while and my mate (Kev A) rang me up saying this new place called Vsport in boldon (near Sunderland) was having an open day. Anyway I went along and put her on the rollers and I came out with 369bhp and about 357ftlb at 1bar I was quite pleased. I got my AFR's checked and was told the fueling should be good to run 1.2bar and then maybe I might get near the 400bhp mark. I'll try and put the graph up soon if anyone is interested. Kev A (on here) also put his Vectra V6 on the rollers and came out with 219bhp which was pretty good aswel. I think they are 202bhp standard and he has a couple mods so the figures seem ok, great guys at Vsport, I would recommend them for a NE dyno.

That would be Chris Western would it not. Are you an engineer or a TSM etc. Just curious as I dont know anyone else in the company interested in supra's yet, or car's for that matter

Mental would def have one if I had plenty money to spend, which I dont

I must agree with everything you just said. I tried the manu mode on mine for the first time properly about a week ago and it is fun, like you said it's like a different car but it's always good to be able to put it back in drive and relax on those longer journeys

Thanks guy's, what a f**k on I'v had today I did eventually get those disks off, they were corroded on there solid. I had too use a rubber mallet and those M8 bolts and lots of WD40. I did find the bolt holes eventually but the alloy had compressed a load of crap in the holes so the holes were filled in flush with the disk it took some scraping to find them. Anyway after a hole day on the car I managed to only replace the rear disks and pads because when I went to move onto the front's the wheel locking nut key snapped as I was trying to remove the first front wheel:badmood: so then I spent the last 3hours or so trying to get the wheel nuts off. Eventually a neighbour came along with a nice quality 21mm socket and a big mallet and braid the buggers off, whoopie. Then after thanking him loads I started packing up everything and guess what I found. . . The pins off one of the rear brake pads I forgot to put on So off with the back wheel again and put that on. Not a very productive day. I still have the fronts to do, fit all 4 braided lines and flush the old fluid out tomorrow. Hopw I have a better day than today. Oh and please say the fronts are easier to change then the rears. . .

I'm in the process of trying to remove one of my rear disk's. I have spent all morning trying to get the sucker off but I cant seem to get it. I removed the caliper and and used the hole in the disk to adjust the brake shoe's slack but no amount of beating is getting the disk off. Can anyone help me please as my car is sitting on my drive with one corner in peices and it looks like its going to rain Oh, I also read that there is a 8mm threaded hole in the disk to help remove it but I cant see one. There is one hole to get to the adjuster and two holes that go slightly through to somewhere but they are not threaded in the slightest.

It is alot of money to spend. Even a second hand RS would cost a bob or two never mind after spending that little lot on it.( I would guess over 20K anyway). You could get alot more car for that kinda money. Anyway enough of that rant. Are you going to have a play? and I agree that traction would be the RS's downfall. saying that the supra is poo in the wet I recently fitted RLTC and it made a massive difference to the amount of power you can put down when the roads are a little damp but I think there are two many factors to say which is the fastest car. The only way to tell is to have ago, good luck if you do. Just remember that yours probably cost over half of his and looks better. (I think it will be a draw)

oh well, alot of money spent there I guess. I'm not a great fan of the focus but I will admit I do really like the RS (although I have not driven one). I think a BPU TT would be a pretty much even match. Both would have about the same bhp, the RS would be lighter but the supra should have more power lower down. I wouldnt want to put my money on either of them, I think it would be to close. I would however have spent all that money on a nice big single supra I would imagine you could get a nice 700 - 800bhp monster for that sort of money, then there would be no comparison.

What was done to that car to achieve 384bhp, thats quite a bit for a 2ltr. If it was a bigger tubbie would it not suffer from massive lag. (just like the evo FQ400) and I bet that cost a testicle or two.

I turn into zombie mode when people who know nothing about cars try to pretend they do. I am by far no expert but when people talk about how there 1.6 does sixty in about 3.5sec and a 1.4 corsa will do 150mph etc. it does my nut in, good man for keeping him entertained just hope you didnt agree with him or he will think he's right

There is so much supra hate in the comments about that vid I do think the R34 GTR is a very good car (dont know if the one in the vid is GTR or not) but in my opinion (and I may be very wrong) is that the only advantage a GTR has over a supra is that amazing 4 wheel drive set up it has going for itself. but apart from that does the supra not come trumps up in alot of other departments. . . for a start it has a bigger engine, and as far as I know is capable of more power. . . but never mind, it just looks like there must be alot more skyline fans out there than us supra lovers. Shame really.

Thanks guy's I think I have everything I need so if the weather is ok tomorrow I'll have some nice new brakes fitted (well hopefully)