Shilakadaddy

Interesting thread to read the night before I start my Direct Access training!

Yours is an RZ with a LSD

Does anyone have pictures of a black supra with completely black headlights? I.e. no chrome rings around any of the lights?

nope, unfortunately they're part of the inner light moulding

I've recently been contacted by a guy in Sweden who's interested in buying my car as he saw in another thread that I was interested in selling it. I sent him a few details about it and he was wondering if I could get the current mileage reading corrected to the actual mileage of the car. Currently the odometer shows just below 93,000, but 71,000 of these are in km, and now an extra 22,000 in miles. So he was wondering if I could get the reading changed to 66,000 miles to match this? Does anyone know if I'm allowed to do this, and if so, any companies that can do it and how much it would cost? Cheers, Chris

Mine will be up for sale soon Just need to sort out a couple of things first, will be looking for around £10k - I'll write and PM you an advert if you're interested?

Yep, I feel like a complete tit whenever I have to say my username out loud

about 10.5kg I seem to remember...?

Yours seems to have much better ground clearance than mine, really must have a look and see if there's some way i can adjust it.

Restrictor ring now removed, with no effect whatsoever I guess I need to invest in a boost controller. Still prefer this exhaust to the Super Dragger though

Having failed my MOT a couple of weeks back due to a rather old and rusty HKS Super Dragger exhaust, I felt it was time to spend a bit of money and get something new I'm not a fan of loud, or even large exhausts, but other than the standard one there is little choice out there for an exhaust that is neither of those things. After looking through many different pictures of exhausts I liked the look of, then reading up on reviews to see how loud they were, I finally decided the Nur Spec RX was the way forward I ordered a CAT-back system from Phoenix - Thanks to Mark, who had to put up with me constantly calling him as I was in a bit of a rush! I fitted it last week and overall I'm quite happy with the result... The exhaust fitted great onto the Whifbitz decat pipe, slotting into place with no issues at all. The tip sits a little lower than I'm wanting under the bumper, but this is due to the old, and probably stretched, rubber rings holding it in place (soon to be sorted). The exhaust ground clearance underneath the car is unfortunately much worse than with the Super Dragger, and with the car's current ride height, I can see it catching on large speed bumps The noise is excellent! On idle and low revs it is very quiet indeed, even compared to the Super Dragger, which is also known to be a quiet exhaust. I can't comment on how it compares to standard as I've never had a standard exhaust, but even with the decat pipe installed, you won't be bothering your neighbours when coasting past late at night On WOT and high revs however, its a different story I don't really know how to describe the sound, but its completely different to the Super Dragger. Its very raspy and aggressive, you can really hear the exhaust gas screaming down the whole pipe! Again its not overly loud, but certainly loud enough for the car in front to move out the way very quickly when you're sat behind Performance wise I think it might be quite restrictive. With the Super Dragger I would normally see around 1.1 - 1.2 bar boost, and on a cold day, up to 1.3 bar. This morning on the way to work (coldish morning) the peak boost was just below 1.0 bar I'm going to make the bold assumption that this is due to the Nur Spec and not some other random problem thats appeared. At some point in the week I'll try removing the restrictor ring to see how high the boost goes then, and report back. I'll get some pictures up at some point too, but the exhaust looks exactly the same as normal Nur Spec R, which everyone's seen anyway. Chris

Yep they rub, sorry I should have mentioned that! I think everyone who's bought these wheels has the same problem, although my car is lower than most, so I didn't know whether they would rub on standard suspension. There's no issue on the front, but at the rear I had to have the rear arch lips trimmed back and everything's fine now I've had the wheels about a year now.

Same thing happened to me with my HKS Super Dragger - car had already failed due to various other rusty holes in my exhaust though, so the guy just stuck the probe in one of the rusty holes further up the exhaust to get a reading... it then failed on emissions too

If you have a look in my garage, I have the same width's as what you're going for, 30mm offset at the rear, 35mm offset at the front. I actually wanted the 25mm offset at the front as I think the front wheels are a little too tucked in. I think TDR has the 25mm front offset on his car. As for handling, I would assume that the 40mm offset is best as this is closest to the standard wheels offset.

Cheers guys! I'm happy the problem was just me being dumb I did have a clear hose attached to the bleed nipple, which was full of fluid at all times, so I assumed when the pedal was released, the only thing that could be sucked back through the nipple would be the fluid in the tube! But obviously not! I was considering one of those pressure bleeding kits, but I've read mixed reviews about being able to get a good pressure seal on the master cylinder reservoir. Anyone got any experience with them? Might be a worthwhile investment for the future...

erm... no I don't know why, but I just assumed I didn't need to do that when simply attempting to flush out the old fluid! So would this explain my issue?

Thanks Chris, I feel really proud of myself now! Sorry, I forgot to mention, I have UK spec brake calipers. I couldn't see any fluid leaking from anywhere at the time, so I assume everything is still intact. I was using Halfords Dot 5.1 fluid, although not sure what was in previously. Dave F, those pictures are great! As far as I can see, the internals of my brake master cylinder are exactly the same

I've hit a small problem while attempting to bleed my brakes, here's what happened... I changed my front discs and pads yesterday, and figured while I was there, I may as well change the brake fluid too. So I got a mate round to sit in the car and press the pedal, while I loosen and tighten the brake bleed valve. Starting at the passenger rear of the car, I loosened the valve and asked my mate to pump the pedal and keep topping up the master cylinder reservoir with fresh fluid. At first a small amount of air was released from the caliper along with the old fluid. After about half a litre of fluid was pumped out, a large amount of air started to come out as well - far more than you would expect to see given that my brakes worked fine previous to this! We checked the level on the master cylinder reservoir and that was well above the minimum and hadn't dropped too low at any point during the bleeding process. We tried to keep pumping the fluid through, but nothing was happening now - the fluid level stayed the same, and nothing else was getting pumped out of the caliper. I came inside and had a search around on here to see if I could find a solution to the problem, and managed to find a lot of references to the brake master cylinder, some saying that the seals can get flipped if the pedal is pumped too fast. I tightened the bleed valve back up and pumped the brakes a few times to see if the pedal would hold its position - however it just went down to the floor - again suggesting an issue with the master cylinder. I've since removed the master cylinder and taken it apart to see if I can see a problem, but it looks fine. I can't see how any of the seals could possibly be flipped and none of them are split or even worn. I've taken some pictures but can't get them on the computer at the moment (lost the cable!) so does anyone have any pictures of how the internals of the master cylinder should look? My next course of action is to rebuild the master cylinder, bleed that, then try again. But before I do that, does anyone have any suggestions of what may be the problem? Another component that may have an air lock in it? Or something else I may have done wrong? Any help appreciated! Cheers, Chris

Now then mate! Good choice in moving from the G60 to a Supra How is the Corrado? Didn't you fit a Lysholm charger?

I need to take some new photos. http://www.section-5.net/random/017.jpg

Cheers guys This is stunning

These are perfect imo

May as well throw mine in there

Sounds nice, looking forward to seeing how it develops

The reason for having smaller diameter wheels on the back (for RWD cars) is so that you can fit much larger tyres on the wheels - larger tyre walls. This means under hard acceleration the tyres can squash down and get greater surface area contact with the ground, resulting in more grip. Drag cars also tend to have skinnier wheels up front in order to reduce friction. AFAIK the overall diameter of the wheel + tyre should be the same front and back...