Steve Cargill

Isn't that called pulse tuning and can only be set to be optimum at one engine speed. On the intake side sime cars have two sets of different length pipes that are tuned to a specific speed. Mini's used to have an LCB (long centre branch) exhaust that helped time the exhaust pulses to keep a steady stream. I've never quite understood back pressure though, unless it's to do with sucking the gasses out, and hence pulling in the intake charge during the overlap.

This is a car I've fancied for a while, a real sleeper especially if you remove some of the extra Jap styling and make it look more normal but play with the engine a little.

J spec Turbo FR 17201-46021 J spec Turbo RR 17208-46021 Intercooler 17940-46070 Oil pump 15100-46052 Water pump 16100-49846 Gasket set 04111-46094 Cam belt 13568-49036 Lexus V8 oil filter 90915-20004 Standard Oil filter 90915-20003 Gskt, drain plug 90430-12031 Air filter 17801-46060 UK Left Rear Disk 42431-14150 UK Right Rear Disk 42431-14150 UK Left Front Disk 43516-14030 UK Right Front Disk 43512-14200 UK Left Rear Calliper 47750-14280 UK Right Rear Calliper 47730-14270 UK Left Front Calliper 47750-14270 UK Right Front Calliper 47730-14260 UK Brake Pads Front (both) 04465-14150 UK Brake Pads Rear (both) 04466-14040 UK Shim kit rear 04946-14030 UK Shim kit front 04945-14110 UK Fitting kit rear 04948-14010 UK Fitting kit front 04947-14010 Stock 17” wheels - Front 42611-1B050 (subs -1B090) Stock 17” wheels - Rear 42611-1B060 (subs -1B100) Centre caps - Old style (Need 4) 42603-14320 GS300 sport wheel - Front PZ439-S0670-ZM GS300 sport wheel - Rear 01700-00003 Front Bilstien shock 48510-09015 Rear Bilstien shock 48530-09015 Engine undertray 51440-14010 Clip (need 5) 90119-06354 Bolt (need 6) 90159-50311 Nut (need 6) 90179-05060 Inlet no1 17751-46050 UK Spec injectors Injector 550cc (each) 23209-49035 Fuel pump 23221-46110 Resistor pack 28510-46020 3 dial Meter ring - (Japan only part) 08172-14020 Celica/Clear side repeaters (2 of each) Lamp Assy, side turn signal 81731-20220 Indicator bulb 12v 5w 90981-15012 Turn signal gasket 81732-20220 Facelift front indicators Lamp Assy, front turn signal RH 81510-80086 Lamp Assy, front turn signal LH 81520-80086 Front Headlamp (facelift) 81150-1B231 Front Headlamp (facelift) 81110-1B231 Rear lights (facelift) 81560-14700 Rear lights (facelift) 81550-14700 Floor mats-Black with grey 00008-22003-01 Autobox fluid “Toyota Type T-IV ATF Fluid" (4L tin) 08886-81015

Once a lead-acid battery drops below about 80% charge then it starts to sulpherate and that is not reversable. You can get deep discharge batteries designed for caravans etc, but a car battery is designed to stay charged and give short high capacity loads. A normal charge should do it, but it's life may well have been shortened. If it's one you can top it up then always top it up when it's fully charged. I've never used or know anything about conditioners. The solar panel trickle chargers are meant to be OK, if you can get the sunlight into your garage.

No, they are crap for anything other than typing a letter or playing older games. Any serious multi threaded app will benefit from multiple CPU. The only single CPU machines I own are my laptop and my sons games PC. Or even better, move away from Intel....

But you also changed the fluid. I suspect that a lot of the qdos of braided hoses is down to the fact the you will always do a fluid change when you fit them and the fluid change on it's own will normally make quite a difference. I'm not dismissing them as bling, just pointing out the affect may not be as big as often cited. There has also been 'discussion' about ones that are not coated, the braid is a magnet for muck and can corrode quicker.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19895

Mmmmmm, not sure I'd like to try that personally. Could be nasty if the coupling has seized.....

Another alternative to look at if you don't drive very hard or do track days is to do a complete fluid change and put some CW pads in, there have been good reports of that working well. Full UK setup is the better option but you also need to make sure you wheels will fit over them.

It's got a viscous coupling, it's not electric. Basically yes it does spin all the time but how 'hard' it spins depends on the temperature. At all times it will remove fingers though.....

From memory the K/M or Miles label is nothing to do with how it actually counts. On the back of the odo unit there is a jumper/bridge that dictates the displayed label. Can't tell you exactly what needs changing, but hope that helps.

Good question I had JPS hybrids fitted last year and Leon said that when he was fitting them he noticed that one of the bearings was cracked so had to take them back to his turbo man and get another set. That's not what I'd call good quality control from the maker.

How about an intake pressure/vacuum display gauge? That is exactly what it does.

The initial play allows you foot to 'find' the pedal. Once you are driving you foot always stays on the pedal and so there is no slack then. It's not like steering wheel play where you are pushing and pulling with all the slack in between moves.

I agree about the mods issue, they didn't care providing the CC was the same. Cost me about £800 They are also incredibly cheap on the Laguna. All the main places wanted £550-£700. LV are charging me £350

But as dude says, the Supra is a pule unit. Firstly you have to reset it to 0 and then start injecting the pluses to increase it. Somone told be a couple of years ago it takes something like 1 day per 10,000 miles to count up.

Just like to thank Paul for hosting a great afternoon and it was really good to put faces to avitars - mostly I really must get another Supra :(

Hi, do a search for "creak anymore" and have a good read and see if this helps. Those suspension bolts are often overlooked. Could well be shocks as the car is getting old, but worth double checking the bolts if the symptoms match.

What time is everyone aiming to get there for?

I wouldn't get too hung up about the figures, in real life they are about the same - you'll not really notice. When you first get the car you probably think it's got loads of power, more than enough. After a short while that will change to it's OK then fairly shortly to just about enough. That is when you start spending and for a long time it will stay on just about enough.

Brace for a big bill . . . . . Sorry, not really helpful, but could be true . . Air temps make a big difference. On really cold days you'll get a few extra lbs and on hot days you'll get less and with a much higher charge temp it can be bad for the engine (someone that can explain properly will be along shortly.....) How is your intercooler? Also, try colder plugs.

It's quite a bit cooler this evening, could be the denser air affecting it. With det/plugs giving up the power and boost seems to waver about in my experience. More like a soft squidgey sort of limit not a hard on/off effect.

It just raises is, but when the FCD does the cut it is a normal fuel cut but at a higher boost so you'll still get the red triangle etc. Could be det?

Ooo yes, they have to be not only tight, but bleeding tight.

I think the one under the bonnet is for cruise control. Not 100% about it though, but I didn't have anything plugged in there either.