Steve Cargill

Does it creak at parking speeds, particularly when on lock. (Not the clunt of front brakes when in reverse or the scuffing sometimes from the rear wheels with an LSD) Try a search for "I don't creak anymore" and have a good read of the results and see if that helps.

OK, OK, I'm sure Gordon will be along any second with the photo. Second time this month, I should be on royalties!! . . . . OK, where are you Gordon, a bit slow this time BTY crimbo, this thread tells you how to (and how not to) do it. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20681

This is what I put on mine Celica/Clear side repeaters (2 of each) Lamp Assy, side turn signal 81731-20220 Indicator bulb 12v 5w 90981-15012 Turn signal gasket 81732-20220

I think the only way is to take off the turbos and measure them. Part of the reason behind hybrids is they use the stock housings......

Not always the same but...... TBH Terry, can you hear pinking in a Supra at WOT? I used to get it in my Capri and sounded like a loose metal plate on the engine. When mine went I didn't hear anything, just felt the hesitation. (caveat, mine melted the end off the plug, not the ceramic) I guess there are lots of ways to die. If the ceramic broke down slowly then probably you'll have pitted blades. If it came off in one lump I guess you should have fubar'd bores and no turbo blades. BTW, it was No 5 that died in mine. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7026

No 5 appears to have the ceramic insulator completly missing :eek:

Civillian access to GPS used to only be accurate to around 100M because the time signal would 'randomly' drift. The military could remove the drift and get much higher accuracy. They have since updated their systems and the public system is down to a few meters - the military system is rather more accurate....... Note that the military can turn the system off, as they did in the last Gulf war. BTW, general aviation navigation does not need to be that accurate anyway, a n airliner will cover 100M in about 1/2 second.

Alex, when my turbos went it was more the main cause was probably all the other crap being blown out when then engine died. From a statistical perspective just because there is a relationship does not prove a cause and effect. People with filter X perhaps also run a more stressed engine for example.

Are you sure it's the bulb? When mine was in D sometimes the light down by the stick and the one on the dash didn't work. Guess it was something central, giving the stick a waggle - but keeping in in D - would normally bring it back on again.

That is where mine was, but I have heard they can also be on top of the gearbox which can lead to corrosion problems.

The opposite really, I was being told how to do it. Finishing up with a very informative "mmmmmmm, you didn't want to let that happen, did you. This will be interesting, let me get my camera" type of phrase.

The voice of experience speaks.... Providing they have been put in the right way around just put your fingers at the back and pull forwards and out. This should do it. The harness they just unclips. The ones I put in, Celica parts just went straight on. WHATEVER YOU DO make sure the harness does not fall down inside the wing, especially if you are doing it at a meet as it's a little tricky getting it out without taking the wing off. Or so I've been told

Does if feel like a 'soft cut' where it just fluctuates a bit? Proper fuel cut is a brown trouser moment the first time you get it...... First guess would be spark plugs giving up - where the OK at 1.5 bar? Did you run it at that for long? Anything else changed?

What better advice could anyone ask for. You can't beat a realisitc answer :D

Is that how you stopped the failures? BTW is FADEC working properly these days, I've not heard of anything bad for a while?

And Toyota make the . . . . . . . Yaris . . . . . Prius . . . . I think this is a point best not pushed

Are they still legal, haven't seen them for years. I guess they managed to spear a few pedestrians....... The aerial that is

Let's not start a "I'm lardier than you" thread

O/Drive only cuts out 4th gear. It either limits you to 120ish MPH by locking out 4th or gives you a sharper response by holding down into 3rd. Power brake to about 2K RPM (starting to buck) and leave it in D I think is the best way off the line. With Manu there is a delay before the change up and it's all too easy to hit the rev limiter in 1st and fluff it. Picture of my G-Tech pro meter when I was stock all bar cat no2. I had Yoko AVS on the back and probably not the best road surface. http://www.cargills.demon.co.uk/supra/BBSImages/Supra0to60.jpg Note the fence is to keep the peasants off my test track

About 10 years ago I liked the Texaco fuel. Can't remember what they called it then though but it seemed noticably better than the others. it was a non turbo car

Looks like it's down by the turbos.

UK brakes, stock pads, Eagle F1 tyres just stomping on the pedal and using ABS I did 60-0 in 128 feet on two stops and then 133 of the third (the ABS kicked in more, possibly hotter disks so more bite or road surface change) This depends a lot on the road surface, type of tarmac and dirt. I think the J spec will probably stop just as well, providing it has good pads on it. Wasn't there a big discussion a litte while ago where the UK brakes come into there own at higher speeds and when used harder but in a normal straight stop there is practically no difference?

Only if the deceleration is linear. If it bites hard then eases off there will be less time spent at a higher speed so a shorter distance than if there is a slow bite that builds up where more time will be spent travelling faster so more distance is covered in the same time. Another example of this phenomina is where they do car vs plane tests. The recent Eurofighter vs Ferrari F1 - they both did 900m in almost exactly the same time but the plane was doing something like 100MPH more than the car.

When I had my MR2 Turbo the G-Tech pro meter measured it atr 125 feet. That was in the dry with Marshall (read carp) tyres. WTF to people, lots of magazines seem to do it, talk about stopping time in seconds, surely it's distance that is important.

For me, it's a daily commuting car it has to be 100% reliable (or as good as it gets). All the tuning I've had done is after something has broke but the 1st line has always been reliability. Having said that I've had a BHG (I think it was gone when I got it though), followed by a bottom end rebuild (dying oil pump) and then turbos' valves and bores all in one go (Mmmmmmmm)