SteveC

Thanks very much for the offer, but £60 plus £30+ for fuel to get there is a lot more than I was after paying for a couple of rear stock springs. I'm not in any desperate need of the springs, I want them for more of an experiment really. (for more info, see post 2 here)

^^^^

Does you a/c system lose gas, or does it simply not work at all?

The condenser is the smallish radiator that sits in front of the main water cooling radiator. It's part number 88450-14160 and is the same part number on UK, J-Spec TT and N/A models.

Just had a quick look at the manual: Have you turned Aux 2 on and set it up in the initial menu? Other than that, I'd try a different camera.

In the first photo, is it an optical illusion, my eyes - or is it one of those hovering Supras? ...sad to see it like that - even if it can self-levitate.

OK fine, PM me your payment details please. Thanks. Edit: Payment sent.

If it's £20 delivered for the air con compressor, I'll take it please. Assuming it works OK.

As per title - TT version.

Just had a thought regarding Bilstein's change of spring seat heights: If I've got it right, on a standard J-Spec, the front sits quite high compared to the rear. Perhaps Bilstein were trying to address that by lowering the front and raising the rear? I'll attach a couple of photos showing the difference between stock UK Spec shocks and the Bilstein Sports shocks. Front LH photo, rear RH photo.

Thanks Chris for the info. I did e-mail Bilstein a while ago asking why the spring seat heights were different to stock; this was the reply I received: It didn't really explain anything...

Not sure if you're still around George, you don't appear to have been on here for about 6 months... Just seen this post - interesting write-up. I notice you say that the UK Spec rear springs made the back end about an inch higher than when using the J-Spec rear springs; did it ever settle down much at all, or did it remain around an inch higher? The reason I ask, is that when I replaced the original stock shocks on my UK Spec with Bilstein Sport shocks, it lowered the front end by about 10mm and raised the rear end by about 5mm. This was due to the spring seats on the Bilstein front shocks being 10mm lower than those on the stock UK spec shocks, but on the Bilstein rear shocks, the spring seats are about 5mm higher than those on the stock UK Spec shocks. As it stands at the moment, the rear end is about an inch (25mm) higher than the front end. It doesn't look bad at all and it rides well, but the thought just crossed my mind that a set of rear J-Spec springs may just level it up - although I don't like the sound of this "suspension chatter". Just for reference, with Bilstein Sport shocks and stock UK springs, mine (wheel centre to top of the arch) is front 345mm, rear 370mm.

Sounds to me like you'd really like a manual but haven't found one yet. I'd say wait till the right one comes along. The auto box is really very nice, but a manual (IMO) is better to drive. You can always find auto to manual conversion threads, but how many manual to auto conversion threads have you seen? Not many I bet. Speaks for itself...

This may be a start: I think it's a HKS EVC IV Setup and installation manual here.

I don't think there's any such standard PCD of exactly 114mm. It is worth checking/measuring the PCD of new/second-hand wheels. The previous set of brand new wheels I bought were bought as 114.3mm - and that was the size as casted into the rims. Three of the four rims were actually machined at a PCD of 112mm! No wonder they were a little difficult to get on and off the studs!!

Your figures are correct - PCD 114.3mm, spigot 60.1mm. Perhaps some people just abbreviate 114.3 to 114?

Yes. Looks good.

Both the video camera and audio switching box use phono connectors and screened cable. An audio switching box will work for video, and a video switching box will work for audio.

It would work perfectly well as either.

...it's also on eBay at the moment.

Were you lost?

Sounds like a good plan. You're definitely better spending that bit more on the head unit rather than one of those cheapo jobs off eBay. The Pioneer you linked to looks decent. £55 a camera seems quite a lot, but you will get slightly better video quality.

You could use one like this for £12.95 delivered. Take everything out of the box and mount the switch through the dash. Just use the left channel connections and you could possibly cut the right channel connectors/internal wires off. All that you'll see is the switching knob itself.

If you're not looking to spend much, you could do it for under £200 for new gear courtesy of eBay: DVD head unit with video input £136 delivered 3 x cameras (£10 each) £30 delivered Video switch box £13 delivered The 3 individual video inputs (left & right front & reversing) would be manually switched into the DVD head unit via the switch box. Personally I'd spend more on the head unit and the cameras. The point is you don't have to look for a head unit with three video inputs if you use a video switching device - which doesn't have to be expensive... ...and if you are - or know someone who is - electrically competent, then with the addition of a few relays it could be made to switch to the appropriate camera when you signal left or right, or go into reverse.

Sorry, didn't mean to confuse the issue! I was fairly sure the UK spec 2nd cats were different, so I looked up the part numbers. I suspect the only difference with the UK spec 2nd cat is the O2 sensor boss, which could be blocked off with a plate and probably used on a J-Spec TT or NA.