SteveC

20 x used, original Toyota wheel studs. 12mm x 1.5mm pitch. Threads on all studs are good. Sold to JamieP - payment received. 20 x brand new and unused wheel nuts. 12mm x 1.5mm pitch threads, 60° cone seats for aftermarket wheels. 21mm hex socket size. Sold to JamieP - payment received. 16 x wheel nuts plus 4 wheel lock nuts with adapter. 12mm x 1.5mm pitch threads, 60° cone seats for aftermarket wheels. 19mm hex socket size. Used for around 6 months. Sold to ssupraw - payment received.

I managed to clear mine by using a 12v tyre inflater. They work great now.

If the car's value after a body kit is added is of any real concern to you, then I'd say leave the body standard. Unless it's done very well and the style actually appeals to a potential buyer, then you've possibly spent money to devalue the car. That said, I'm not a fan of body kits...

As I recall, Paul Whiffin has the original Toyota stuff in stock.

Sold to Mike - Payment received

I looked at K&N filters a while ago and I think they usually sell for about £50+; however, after reading numerous posts on this forum and on others, it appears that a genuine Toyota paper filter possibly gives the better filtration.

If there's noticeable play, then definately change them; if there's not, then I'd say leave them alone.

Mine was exactly the same I'm not so sure MOT testers will pass wobbling/flickering lights - and it'll look like the car has a lighting fault. Possible Police pull there.

Readings of around 200 psi sound a little high to me. Perhaps the readings on a VVTi are higher than on a non-VVTi? I wouldn't have expected 200 psi though. I thought readings were usually within the range of 150 - 180 psi - depending on the accuracy of individual gauge, of course (and hopefully readings of all cylinders are within 14 psi of each other). I cannot understand how the readings were initially all over the place and then stable at an indicated 200 psi - unless the first guy who tested didn't know what he was doing, or else his gauge simply wanted binning. The main thing is it drives well.

Replied.

My Mrs has a Puma, so I know how poor the standard lights are. The 'wobbly' light on my car looked just as though the bulb was loose in the light unit and moving. I would never have thought that a new ballast would cure it, but it did. Are you sure all your connections are good?

I had the same with one of my HID lights. A replacement ballast unit cured it.

Looks a neat unit. You don't seem to get a great deal of feedback (positive or negative) about these things from buyers... there's quite a lot of enthusiasm about buying, then little or nothing afterwards. I've noticed the same on other forums. I asked a question over a week ago in this thread about some units that had been playing up; there's been no response so far. I also asked my local tyre fitter about TPMS systems in general. He wasn't very enthusiastic about them - to put it mildly! He said they're easy enough to fit, but he's seen so many that play up or simply just don't work... I'm still interested, but I must admit, I'm beginning to have second thoughts...

Now Sold. Fronts: 235/40 18 x2 Rears: 265/35 18 x2 Distance used: Under 300 miles Tread depth: Just under 8mm Price: £260 Delivery mainland UK: £30 Payment: Cash on collection, bank transfer or PayPal + £10 (to cover majority of PayPal's charges) I bought these tyres fitted to a set of new alloys wheels. Due to problems with the alloy wheels themselves (not affecting the tyres in any way), I had the tyres taken off the wheels and then the wheels were returned to the retailer. After what turned out to be quite a long and drawn out process, the wheels have now been replaced but with a slightly larger rim width. These Avon tyres will certainly fit my new wheels ok, but ideally I'd prefer slightly larger cross-section tyres. If I can sell these Avons, then I'll buy a new set of tyres for the replacement wheels. If I can't sell them, then I'll just have these fitted to the new wheels - no problem!

Personally, I really wouldn't have thought that the guy doing the powder coating will be expecting you to actually split the calipers themselves before they are powder coated. I would have thought that he meant you should just take out the pistons, rubber seals and bleed valves. It would also be a good time to consider replacing all the rubber seals and any pistons that may be corroded. Unless seized, the pistons should pull out quite easily.

There is if you look at previous results: Gazboy - 149 and 153 "Ian" - 170

Not sure about your alarm, but I doubt any decent alarm system would carry on working normally with the sounder disconnected. Sounders aren't usually that quick and easy to disconnect! How long you can leave your car and it still start will depend on the particular alarm, the rest of the electrical system, the actual condition of your battery and the ambient temperature. It appears as though many Supra owners can find their cars reluctant to start after standing for 2 or 3 weeks due to a flat battery. Best bet is to use an Optimate trickle charger when the car's not in regular use, then you won't have any more problems.

I was considering getting this system - these posts don't sound too good! Were the problems ever sorted out?

Well, if they're going to a good price, then I'm "interested". The better the price, the more interested I'll be! 1. SteveC 2. 3.

If it was and the price had increased accordingly, then the difference would only be £3.15 more!

I bought an ASI one off eBay several months ago and it was a good fit. I was also quite impressed with the build quality.

All MOT stations should get the same result when they test the same car - but they often don't. If a garage is very busy they may let some relatively minor fault go and give you an MOT. On the other hand, if they're short of work (and think you'd possibly have the car repaired there), then they may fail it on everything they can find to get the work. Only go to a garage you can definitely trust. Ask around for recommendations...

That sounds promising.

I suppose Wez they could still work well and give inaccurate readings. Even if the pressure reading was out, it's still good though to get an alarm indicating that pressure in a tyre has dropped considerably. I was a bit surprised by the comments of the guy on the Auto Express website. If his readings were 10%+ out, then I could sort of understand the negative comments, but I don't know how inaccurate his unit was - or how accurate he expected it to be. Has anyone filled their tyres with a given pressure and had the display indicate exactly the same amount - or maybe a figure that was well out?

I've been thinking about going for one of these, but I'm just wondering how buyers of this device found the accuracy/consistency of the display readings, i.e., when all tyres are inflated to, lets say, 36 psi and verified with an accurate gauge, did all readings on the Tyresure display indicate 36 psi? The reason I ask is that in an Auto Express review, someone commented about the poor accuracy of these systems: He went on to sum up: Just wondered how buyers of these systems found them once installed, as the above comments put me off the idea a little.