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Going single..


ADL Mark
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Hi Mark

 

Unfortunately the powerfc is no longer made and very hard to get hold of. Also you are right that the powerfc is made for the jspec community meaning that is it built to run on a Map sensor based system so won’t work on a UK. (Could be made to easy though if you do come across one) ;)

 

The link ecu's come in 2 formats, Link g3 Lem and Link g3 Plus

 

The link g3 Lem is the cheaper model and can be brought from Thor who is the UK distributor for around £520. With this Ecu you would have to run a wasted spark setup and grouped injection. It works fine on the supra and I have used one on mine up to 1.2bar with no problems with miss firing meaning that a dli is not needed but there is a slight problem with the acceleration enrichment side of the LEM ecu when running on a supra and I have got link fixing this at present with the plus this is not a problem.

 

But if I was going to fit a standalone ecu to a supra it would be either a link g3 plus or a Motec m600.

 

The link g3 plus is on par with the Motec m800 and I feel it’s the way to go with any big power cars I am now asked to map and suggest ecu. It runs fully sequetial injection and coil on plug producing a more efficient engine, better mpg, more responsive and no problems what so ever with injection break down at stupid boost levels.

 

Any link g3 ecu can also control boost and very well so you could sell your current controller and then its just £35 for a link boost solenoid and then either a volume knob on dash to control boost or I can set a switch for high and low mode .

I have actually made some plug and play looms for these ecu’s on the supra now :)

 

The ecu’s can control air con, water injection, intercooler sprays, Warning lights, shift lights, Antilag, Launch control, flat shifting and the list goes on but on the link g3 Lem you are limited to how many of the above you can run with the plus you could have switches everywhere for what ever you like :)

 

Another good thing about going with the link ecu is that they come with their own map sensors so you can then convert your UK spec maf setup to a Map based setup which is the way to go. Bye bye MAF

 

HTH

 

Look here for more details

 

http://www.linkecu.com/products/engine-management/Wire-In/wire-in-home

 

also what about this

http://www.linkecu.com/products/productspageimages/displaylink806image.jpg

 

:cool:

 

see here

 

http://www.linkecu.com/products/TuningTools/DisplayLink

 

Ryan

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Hmm, thanks for the PM's and that post Ryan, much appreciated! Ignore the PM I just sent you, I saw it before the thread and you've already answered all the questions I asked! :)

 

What I'm thinking at the moment is to cancel my order of the MAP ECU, harness and the Innovate setup. If I also sell my AVC-R then I'm pretty close to the whole cost of the ECU, harness and your set up costs. Just need to sell the old Pug 405 TD on the driveway and all is sorted ;)

 

It does look like a very good option, I really like that DisplayLink too, very smart. Always an option that can be added later on I suppose.

 

I may go PM Dusty...

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I've had a reply from Dusty with regards this, makes interesting reading. I find the difference of opinion between the UK and the US quite amazing.

 

I've just PM'd him back to see if he minds me quoting his PM in here so we can have a chat about it :)

 

I'm sure he won't mind. The US guys seem to go for much more power and boost than those in the UK. They have lot of long, wide straight roads, whereas in the UK we tend to prefer smaller, quick spooling turbo's with much lower peak HP to make the most out of our twisting, crap roads and cold/wet weather.

 

Many traders opinions usually different to those of the members. I bet it involved selling you more kit - did it involve an expensive fuel system by any chance? There's nothing wrong with going that route, it's certain safer, but you have to ask if its really necessary with the route you plan on going...

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No, in all fairness to Dusty he's not tried to sell me anything at all that I haven't asked for, which I like very much.

 

He has in fact told me that the MAP ECU will do fine for my needs, yes that the MAP ECU2 would give timing control and a little more boost but that the original will be fine.

 

I've just worked out costs, I reckon I'm gonna spend about £900 all in for the MAP ECU and mapping, about £1100 all in for the MAP ECU2 and mapping (mapping quotes are quite high so far for this ECU). And a rough price without giving away Ryan's charges etc. are £1300 fitted and mapped for a Link Plus G3, maybe a touch more with boost control (+£40?).

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Okidoki, fair enough :)

 

I've just worked out costs, I reckon I'm gonna spend about £900 all in for the MAP ECU and mapping, about £1100 all in for the MAP ECU2 and mapping (mapping quotes are quite high so far for this ECU). And a rough price without giving away Ryan's charges etc. are £1300 fitted and mapped for a Link Plus G3, maybe a touch more with boost control (+£40?).

 

You MUST have timing control on a single conversion. For me, it's a no brainer then!

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I understand that, from what I understand I'm going to be losing out on a lot of spool and then power and torque further up from not having the ability to alter timing.

 

I'm really leaning towards the Link Plus G3 now, I've read the Link website and it sounds like a very good bit of kit for not a lot of money.. I've just asked Ryan a few more questions by PM, not sure if he'll reply to that or on here, a couple of the questions could be quite handy for other people in the future to read and make a good informed decision on which way to go :)

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The one thing that has been mentioned is that replacing the stock ECU with a standalone will reveal problems and that all standalones are not perfect in some way or another.

 

The argument there being, don't remove the factory ECU unless you have to remove it, or put up with the problems thereafter.

 

What things can I expect to have to 'put up with' or deal with?

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The one thing that has been mentioned is that replacing the stock ECU with a standalone will reveal problems and that all standalones are not perfect in some way or another.

 

The argument there being, don't remove the factory ECU unless you have to remove it, or put up with the problems thereafter.

 

What things can I expect to have to 'put up with' or deal with?

 

Who told you that??

 

There should be no difference when moving to a standalone, other that positive ones such as better control of the engine.

 

My system has been absolutely perfect since the PowerFC went in. It idles like stock, drives like stock, everything works perfectly. Air con idle-up works, cold start is like stock, hot start like stock, Det warning works. I've lost no features, drivability or anything I didn't have when it was stock. Class One drove it a couple of weeks back and said it was easier to drive off boost and pull-away than some BPU 6spd's he's driven.

 

Its all in the mapping and ECU setup.

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I don't want to start a big argument here, but that seems to be the general opinion of some of the US tuners. :taped:

 

This is what I mean about the difference in thinking of tuning these cars between the two sides of the pond.. :rolleyes:

 

Bizarre! I've been a member of Supraforums for as long as I've been here and nearly all recommend full standalone for single conversions. The only exception is if you have an auto as some ECU's can't control it too well.

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You've been very much mis-sold :(

 

At base timing my car is only about 420bhp (guestimate as it was only about the same as my BPU TT, and far slower to spool). Timing adjustments make an absolutely enourmous difference to the power output and spool of the car. With the same fuel settings, mine rose by well over 100bhp once timing was tuned.

 

Just check out B'have's thread here for the difference a small amount can make: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=125402

 

I was going to use an EMB piggyback, which cost £400 to buy and £300 to map. In the end I got a PowerFC standalone for £450 and mapping done for £200. It was cheaper than the piggyback once 'other costs were taken into account. You can get a new Link G3 for only another £100 so it kind of makes the MAP ECU redundant in my mind - provided you have a localish mapper available. Edit: and your location means you have a local mapper ;)

 

Got to agree, i use MAP-ECU and my Turbo is a T04R and is really laggy (it did however put out 477 RWHP @ 1.4), Mattc runs E-manage blue so no timing adjustmets and uses a GT35R and that is very rapid low down.

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The one thing that has been mentioned is that replacing the stock ECU with a standalone will reveal problems and that all standalones are not perfect in some way or another.

 

The argument there being, don't remove the factory ECU unless you have to remove it, or put up with the problems thereafter.

 

What things can I expect to have to 'put up with' or deal with?

 

 

:blink:

 

Sounds to me like someone is trying to sell you a map ecu ;)

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