grahamc Posted April 14, 2007 Author Share Posted April 14, 2007 Red Top 40, or even a 30, behind the front seats, on the floor, will save a lot of weight. I can do them at excellent prices. Not good for running stereos though Bin all the air con, strip the doors out completely, including side impact bars. Light flywheel and clutch. All lectric none essentials and wiring. Tailgate is heavy, doors themselves v heavy. Most carbon bonnets are heavier than the stock one. Nothing worth saving with front wings. Bumper crash bars can go. Stock seats are v heavy. Stock exhaust is v heavy. Loads of stuff to attack TRD is just an LSD to go in stock diff. It's heavier than an open stock diff, but essential, IMO. Chris, I had originally planned to put sound equipment in, but I am now going to remove it all. So can you please send me some prices (I will email a quick note as well). Also what is the difference between the 2?? Where do I get the wire/cable to move the battery? Stock front seats are gone, sparco fixed back seats are in now. rear seats are out as well. Would leaving the standard boot and boot glass in not aid in trying to get that front to rear balance? Or is it not worth the savings in weight that you would get?? Figured that about the diff, but definitely agree, essential bit of kit! As far as bodywork goes, I have just had CF bonnet, boot lid, doors & door cards fitted on my Supe and I would say there is quite a saving on the doors & boot lid. I've also had new alloys fitted so I'm planning to bob down to the nearest weighbridge when I get chance and see if there is a noticeable drop in weight. I'll post up the results when I get them. Would be keen to know what you find out when weighing the car... what alloys you fitted?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted April 14, 2007 Author Share Posted April 14, 2007 If its not been said already...cant be arsed to trawl through, active spoiler can go as well already gone got a bomex widemouth front bumper as well, fibreglass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb10supra Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 already gone got a bomex widemouth front bumper as well, fibreglass. Hope you kept your j-spec lights then no Heavy UK glass ones for you would'nt mind a blast when its finished, got to be getting near now mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 Would be keen to know what you find out when weighing the car... what alloys you fitted?? Got the Advan Super Racing Ver. 2's 8.5J x 17" front, 10J x 17" rear. The boxes had a 10kg postage weight each. Check my garage for a pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted April 14, 2007 Author Share Posted April 14, 2007 Hope you kept your j-spec lights then no Heavy UK glass ones for you would'nt mind a blast when its finished, got to be getting near now mate Defintely kept those, quick refurb, and they look awesome!! ECU and fitting is next week, with thanks to Maz (and the rest of the guys at THOR) for fitting and mapping on such short notice. No worries, when its at a track day, as I am struggling with the insurance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted April 14, 2007 Author Share Posted April 14, 2007 Got the Advan Super Racing Ver. 2's 8.5J x 17" front, 10J x 17" rear. The boxes had a 10kg postage weight each. Check my garage for a pic Nice... will see what my VOLKs weigh when I get them... or maybe Nic knows? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 I believe there was a thread about 6 pot endless brakes where Paul Whiffin mentioned a big weight saving over stock on each side. The endless calipers are a lot lighter than UK spec ones. Also lighter wheels will help with your unsprung weight. Moving the battery to the back is a good idea, as long as you keep it a low as possible. But youll need a sealed/dry battery. Also the washer bottle when full is 3 ltrs or more = 3 kgs+ so moving it to the back will improve weight distribution. The rear spoiler can go as well s the rear wiper and motor. If your car is UK spec then removing the trac pump and related hoses will save 3 more kgs and free up space under the bonnet A titanium exhaust system with no cats will save a lot of weight. If you havn't already got a strut brace then I wouldnt bother unless your only tracking it . If you remove the aircon you might regret it on those hot summer days..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colsoop Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 I have looked in to this in a bit of detail and this is what i would do to shift weight out of the Supra. Easy removal / cheap: Carpets, door cards front and rear , speaker boxes, amp + wiring,stereo and wiring, lower glove box, rear seat belts + mounts, all foam parts + spare wheel,Aerial + motor, rear and front wipers + motors, headlining. Butcher the tailgate (some of the metal can be removed) Air con removal. Washer bottle removal Aluminium front crash bar removal (although i wouldn't) Budget dependant weight reduction: Aftermarket exhaust (titanium) Aftermarket seat to replace drivers seat Carbon fibre tailgate with lexan screen Remove window electrics and mechanisms and replace with fixed lexan windows (possible insurance issues). Carbon fibre doors. Go single turbo Forged magnesium wheels Buy some headphones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted April 14, 2007 Author Share Posted April 14, 2007 I have looked in to this in a bit of detail and this is what i would do to shift weight out of the Supra. Easy removal / cheap: Carpets, door cards front and rear , speaker boxes, amp + wiring,stereo and wiring, lower glove box, rear seat belts + mounts, all foam parts + spare wheel,Aerial + motor, rear and front wipers + motors, headlining. Butcher the tailgate (some of the metal can be removed) Air con removal. Washer bottle removal Aluminium front crash bar removal (although i wouldn't) Budget dependant weight reduction: Aftermarket exhaust (titanium) Aftermarket seat to replace drivers seat Carbon fibre tailgate with lexan screen Remove window electrics and mechanisms and replace with fixed lexan windows (possible insurance issues). Carbon fibre doors. Go single turbo Forged magnesium wheels Buy some headphones Sounds good! What can I use to cover spaces, once things like the carpet, door cards, gloveboxes, centre (handbrake) console, etc? My mobile has a speaker, should be sufficient! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 As far as bodywork goes, I have just had CF bonnet, boot lid, doors & door cards fitted on my Supe and I would say there is quite a saving on the doors & boot lid. I've also had new alloys fitted so I'm planning to bob down to the nearest weighbridge when I get chance and see if there is a noticeable drop in weight. I'll post up the results when I get them. How much do the doors weigh? Do they (can they) take all stock internals? An photos? I got carbon doors done for my Skyline, and they are 2.8 kilos each and can take all stock hinges, locks and window mechanisms if required, but I am going for no power locks, fixed glass and light hinges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted April 14, 2007 Author Share Posted April 14, 2007 How much do the doors weigh? Do they (can they) take all stock internals? An photos? I got carbon doors done for my Skyline, and they are 2.8 kilos each and can take all stock hinges, locks and window mechanisms if required, but I am going for no power locks, fixed glass and light hinges. I am quite keen to know the weights as well? any idea on the standard door weights? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tannhauser Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 I like the idea of weight-saving, but without really hacking the car to bits, it's hard to make significant improvements in power/weight (in my view). Let's say, you have a car with 326bhp and 1550kg. That's 210.3bhp/tonne. If you strip out 50kg of weight - eight stones of extra weight - the bhp/tonne goes up to 217.3/tonne. That seems like a lot of effort for a 3.3% increase. On the other hand, there is the advatage of better handling and braking from a lighter car. Plus any improvement in performance should be apparent at any speed - unlike, say, a bigger turbo where the performance increase may only be apparent in a particular rev range. To add to what folks have already mentioned: 1. Coilovers. I think Darryl is right - I haven't got any figures, but I seem to remember that most of the coilovers weren't that much lighter than stock suspension. 2. Losing the spare wheel saves 35-40lbs approx. Although it's lost from the back (which isn't ideal), you could relocate the battery to compensate. 3. Lightweight battery, as CW mentions, could save 15-20 lbs - depending on how light you want to go. There may be trade-off's in terms of how long you can leave them without recharging, cold starting etc. 4. CF bonnet isn't a huge saving, maybe 15lbs or so compared to a stock one with the underbonnet gubbins still attached. 5. Single turbo, as far as I can figure out, could save 40lbs for a BL61 type kit. But, as Darryl says, adding an FMIC may offset that. 6. A titanium exhaust like a veilside Ti could save about 20lbs, iirc. 7. Lightweight wheels could make a substantial difference. For example, I have jotted down that OZ F1 cups weigh 25.3lbs, whereas Volk SE37s weigh 16.8lbs. That's 34lbs of unsprung weight, which will have a greater weight-saving impact. Not sure if that's the same size wheels - I believe it is, though. 8. If you could get some CF doors, I would imagine they are a massive weight saving. However, I don't know how much impact protection they offer. Not much, for a guess. Most of these figures are taken from a scribbled bit of paper, but you can check things yourself at the suprahartopregistry site already mentioned and: http://wheelweights.net/ http://www.moreboost.org/weights.htm {This site seems to be down - I don't know if that's temporary or permanent! Also, there's a big weight-saving thread on supraforums: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=104866 Hope this helps. Cliff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colsoop Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 I do agree with the above and as you quite rightly say those areas should be the priority. However the weight savings to made could be as high as 200kg (i haven't done the exact maths) but a conservative estimate would be around 150 kg's. (the tailgate with glass is 30 kg! versus carbon fibre at 7kg's) I had a go with the figures as follows: stock rz @ 1490 kg with a flywheel output of 350 bhp (BPU) = 238.67 per ton weight reduction of 150 kg's gives a bhp per ton of 265.39. that is not small change. Coupled with your recomendation that would be an excellent package Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucasl Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 I don't think there is much of a weight saving in suspension, id have to take mine of and weigh them versus the original. They are definately lighter in you hand compared to stock. Chris i might also be interested in one of those batterys could you pm me a price, do you think its better to relocate behind the passenger seat or in the spare wheel well. If removing the door bars, would it not be advisable to have a roll cage installed? I was also thinking the same with the front and rear bumper crash bars, or has anyone done this without. Im changing my wing mirrors for the small GT style ones, that should save a bit more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucasl Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 also would replacing the fuel tank with a smaller alloy one save enough weight to make it worthwhile, where would be a good place to locate it, in the standard space or up in the wheel well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucasl Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 and replacing the radiator for an aftermarket alloy one would that make a difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 How much do the doors weigh? Do they (can they) take all stock internals? An photos? I got carbon doors done for my Skyline, and they are 2.8 kilos each and can take all stock hinges, locks and window mechanisms if required, but I am going for no power locks, fixed glass and light hinges. I'm afraid I don't know how much they weigh on their own, but they are considerably lighter than stock. The inner framework & gubbins can be kept in, so all you'd need to do is cut holes for window switches, etc. They are pre-moulded with holes for hinges, locks & inner door release handles. See.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Walker Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 Thats lovely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted April 14, 2007 Author Share Posted April 14, 2007 Ok, these are my wheels 18” Rays Volk TE37 in metallic Black, so versus UK 17s there should be a bit of a saving. When relocating the battery, should it go as far back as possible or is behind the seats? Good point about the rollcage, but it was something that I was already considering (seriously). Also remember, my car is not stock... got as much as I could do done, however engine internals are standard and I have hybrids, thats about it. FMIC is already done.... Single maybe to expensive for this stage of work... car is about 450 - 500bhp (this is NOT a hard figure yet...), will have the car dyno'd soon. CF doors, front fenders and bonnet are of more interest to me... Who does them? How much are they? How much weight difference is fibreglass and carbon fibre (IE. Seibon)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted April 14, 2007 Author Share Posted April 14, 2007 I'm afraid I don't know how much they weigh on their own, but they are considerably lighter than stock. The inner framework & gubbins can be kept in, so all you'd need to do is cut holes for window switches, etc. They are pre-moulded with holes for hinges, locks & inner door release handles. See.. [qimg]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v652/BikerInSupra/DSC00065.jpg[/qimg] [qimg]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v652/BikerInSupra/DSC00064.jpg[/qimg] [qimg]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v652/BikerInSupra/DSC00063.jpg[/qimg] Those are awesome!! How difficult is it to relocate the drivers set of the electric window buttons to the handbrake console?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 My dad sorted out the wiring for the windows 'cos it usually ends in disaster when I touch electrics. The driver's side switch block has been relocated into the hole for the ashtray. It seemed to be a relatively easy job, you need to loop it somewhere onto the passenger side wiring otherwise they don't work. I'll get some pics up tomorrow. It looks a bit rough at the minute, but I've got a plan to make a cover for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angarak Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 You'd be suprised how much the glass in a car weighs, and its a weight high up on the car. Replace the glass with polycarbonate and you'll save on weight and lower (albeit a little) the cars center of gravity (since there is less weight up top). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 Seats have got the be the first thing, save loads there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted April 14, 2007 Author Share Posted April 14, 2007 My dad sorted out the wiring for the windows 'cos it usually ends in disaster when I touch electrics. The driver's side switch block has been relocated into the hole for the ashtray. It seemed to be a relatively easy job, you need to loop it somewhere onto the passenger side wiring otherwise they don't work. I'll get some pics up tomorrow. It looks a bit rough at the minute, but I've got a plan to make a cover for it. Thats sounds pretty good! Definitely want to see those pics! Seats have got the be the first thing, save loads there Front seats changed, rear seats out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kazimodo Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 Just shed about 100 kilo's off the Soop, Made my husband catch the bus. Do I win an Anorak ? Kaz xxxxxxxxxxxx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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