Jump to content
The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Blitz twin turbo installation


TLicense
 Share

Recommended Posts

Managed to finish off the fuel pump hanger assembly today.

 

First of all, I wasn't happy with the way the wiring was installed. I'm extremely paranoid about wiring in the fuel tank. After all you only get one chance to get it wrong.

To ensure that there was no chance of any of the wires working loose or anything touching any bare wire and causing any kind of spark, I decided to pot all of the connectors using some 3M 2-pack glue (Can't remember the part no. of the stuff, but I'll find out and post it up)

Here's the wiring loom as it started off:-

image

You can see how the wiring is showing on this pump connector:-

image

And on this connector to the stock electrical connector:-

image

 

After glueing and spending an hour in an low heat oven to help cure the glue this is what it looked like:-

image

image

 

The ground wires were crimped, soldered then potted with glue:-

image

image

No big explosions for me then! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 342
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Next I set about finishing off the actual installation of the wiring loom.

At this point I got fed up with the stock bolts (some kind of imperial size, can't remember what) so I drilled and tapped them out to M5's for fixing the ground wires from the pumps to the hanger and M8's for fixing the ground wire from the hanger to the chassis.

I then assembled it all together:-

image

Here you can see the stock connectors with my new 35amp wiring:-

image

You can clearly see the extension piece I had to make to be able to fit the -8 male/male adpator and the banjo bolt to the top of the hanger:-

image

Here's how the ground wires were fixed. Don't worry the bolts aren't annodised so they will conduct fine. (I measured 1.6ohms from the power supply, through each pump and back to the hanger). I used nordlock anti-vibration washers under the ground wire bolts to prevent them from ever vibrating loose:-

image

image

Here's a pic of the top of the hanger with the banjo fittings I'm going to use. Obviously the centre is the fuel feed which is -8, the right hand side is the fuel return which is -6, and the lhs is the breather which again is -6:-

image

All in all, I would say there has been somewhere in the region of 15 hours work just in sorting this assembly, but I'm quite pleased with how it's turned out. Pity it had to be so modified and wasn't as it should have been from the shop. Oh well....

Anwyay I'll be fitting this along with the final installation of the fuel lines tomorrow :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

looks the nuts mate . The only thing is will the petrol not mess with the glue? or did you put some in a little tub of petrol first to see if it reacted?

 

Nah it's pretty heavy duty stuff. We've used it at work for bonding feeds onto fuel tanks before so it's not going to be a problem. ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I finished the installation of the fuel pump assembly today.

I had a couple of issues though.

First of all, when I went to fit the banjo fittings after putting the pump assembly into position and fitting the retainer ring (here's a tip, if you're struggling to re-fit the retainer ring try running some grease on the thread. Not too much mind, you don't want to be getting it in the fuel tank!) I found that as the banjo fittings sit very close to the top of the retainer ring, they fouled it. So I had to relieve some of the upper portion of the ring around each fitting:-

image

image

image

 

I then found even when just using banjo fixings and not the 90 degree bends that I'd originally hoped to use, it still fouled the inspection cover. To get around this I initially tried turning down the head of the -8 feed bolt. But it still clashed with the inspection cover, so there was nothing else to do than grind a small hole into the top of the cover. By the time I'd finished it was a not so small hole. It's not very neat but it's got the job done. If I were doing it again, I would just drill a hole just big enough to fit the bolt head through. I also drilled a 6mm hole through the inspection cover and fitted a gromet for my ground strap to go through:-

image

I've fitted the ground strap to the ground point on the rear bulkhead. I've given myself enough cable so that I can tape it to the floor of the boot so it won't catch on anything:-

image

image

I also fitted the fuel feed up to the fuel filter and produced an exact list of components that I've used for my fuel line set-up that I'll post later.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK so I set about finishing fitting all the fuel lines.

I can't stress how important it is that you route all the lines as safely as possible. I will be manufacturing a mount that I can attach a P bracket to that will be attached to the mounting points that the stock fuel hose cover bolts to. Once that's fitted I'll see if I need any further brackets to ensure that the lines are nice and secure and they won't get caught up on any road-debris. I couldn't get any decent pics of the routing, but basically you want to follow the stock routing as close as possible. I'll try to get some better pics when I mount all the support brackets.

 

Meanwhile, at the engine end....

The inlet manifold I fitted earlier was just to test-fit the lengths of the fuel lines. To final fit the lines, I had to re-strip the inlet manifold back off:-

image

I slightly removed the fuel rail as it's quite difficult to fit the return feed with it fitted in place. With the fuel rail removed I re-fitted the rear engine hanger (Torqued the bolts to 39Nm)

I then fitted the return feed. The return feed on my installation will drop between the number 3 and number 4 runners, under the inlet manifold, and then to the fuel pressure regulator, which will be mounted to the engine side end of the inlet manifold:-

image

image

Here's a pic of the PHR fuel rail mount, basically it's 2 right angled brackets that bolt to the stock location. Then there are 2 aluminium spacers that go between the brackets and the rail. You then put a bolt all the way through and put a nut on the bottom,

I used a couple of nordlock washers to make sure nothing would vibrate loose:-

image

image

 

I then fitted the crankshaft position sensor connectors:-

image

image

 

At this point I couldn't decide wether to fit pigtails to the injector looms or to get a plug in adaptor. I did initially decide to go for an adaptor but later decided to go for soldering the pigtails to the injector looms. I'll post pics up of that a bit later....

 

Anyway, in the meantime, I fitted the engine side fuel feed:-

image

 

And then set-about re-fitting the inlet manifold

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When fitting the inlet manifold, the first hose to re-connect is the water bypass hose to the ISC valve, and the water bypass hose from the ISC valve to the No.4 water bypass pipe.

I found it was easiest to temporarily re-fit the no.4 water bypass pipe, with the bypass hose fitted (this fits up between the no.3 and no.4 manifold runners):-

image

Here you can clearly see the hose going up between the runners in the top right of the picture:-

image

I then connected both hoses to the ISC valve:-

image

I then bolted the inlet manifold to the inlet runners. Fit a new gasket on and then tighten the 5 bolts and 2 nuts all to 27Nm. The manual does not state any specific order but I did them up evenly (it's good practice anyway):-

image

image

To get this centre bolt done, I undid the no.4 water bypass pipe from the manifold and moved the bypass hose as high as I could between the inlet runners:-

image

I then fitted the 2 bolts on the engine wire protector to the end of the inlet manifold:-

image

image

And fitted the ground wire:-

image

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I then fitted the manifold stay. It's quite imporant to ensure you get the manifold the correct sides of all the hoses the run under the inlet manifold (including the new fuel hoses). You don't want to end up snagging anything. The 2 manifold bolts are done up to 39Nm, I couldn't get a pic of the bottom one, but if you get the top on first then see where it puts the manifold you'll soon find the bottom bolt. Also getting the torque wrench onto the bottom bolts was an absolute nightmare. There was a lot of trial and error in fitting the correct combination of long/short series sockets and extensions. In the end I think it was a 1/2" short series 12mm socket connected to a 1/2" wobbler connected to a 1/2" - 3/8" step-down connected to my 3/8" torque wrench. On the botttom, I think it was a 1/2" 12mm socket connected to a 4" extension connected to a 1/2" wobbler conneted to a 1/2" to 3/8" step down connected to my 3/8 torque wrench. Anyway here's a pic of the top fixing:-

image

image

 

I also fitted (for the last time!) the no. 4 water bypass pipe:-

image

 

I then connected up a few of the connectors and hoses on the inlet manifold:-

The Inlet Air Temp sensor connector:-

image

The ISC valve connector:-

image

I also fitted the ISC valve filter:-

image

and the PCV hose:-

image

I also fitted the No.2 vacum pipe, that the diagnostic port mounts to using the 2 fasteners (hint, when trying to do these up keep a magnet handy to catch them if the fasteners fall. I think I must have spent 1/2 hour looking for these bloody things on the floor, just to find them perched on the crossbrace. Doh!):-

image

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With that fitted, I connected up the EVAP hose from the charcoal cannister to the No.2 vacuum(how environmentally friendly of me! I wonder if I'll get into a lower tax band ;) ):-

image

And the EVAP hose from the no.4 water bypass pipe to the no.2 vacuum pipe:-

image

And the power steering air hose to the air intake chamber:-

image

 

It was a this point after the 845 pics that I've uploaded off my camera that the battery decided to die. Bugger. :( I carried on fitting a few bits and bobs, and when I get a chance (hopefully tomorrow, I'll take a few shots of the bits I missed)

 

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

great work mate so much attatoin to detail to , how longtill its running?

 

Cheers,

 

It's going to have all the turbo pipework fabricated on the 15th. That'll take a week. Then I'll spend a week stripping that down and send it to the ceramic coating people, which will take a week. Byt the time that comes back, hopefully I'll have finished the wiring installation for the fuel pumps, and made and fitted the brackets for the fuel hoses. I'll spend a week or two tidying up the final installation, and then it's off to get mapped, probably the 2nd week in Febrary which will take about a week. So fingers crossed the 3rd week in February.

 

This has got to be one of the best posts on here, nice work Tony.:thumbs:

 

Cheers Ibrar ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

At long last....

The car is off to the fabby's at 11am. They're sending recovery vehicle to pick it up to drive it the whole mile and a half down the road to where the work is being done.

I'll try to get some pics over the course of the week to show the work they're doing.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

WOW, what a great thread. I read this entire post and it has been one of the most interesting and educational MK4 expriences. it even made me join this forum!!:cool:

 

I would be very interested in learning where you purchased this Blitz TT kit. I am looking to upgrade my supra as well. Could you kindly PM me with some details? I have everything Blitz on my Supra right now, just looking to move forward.

 

Again GREAT writeup and great attention to detail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. You might also be interested in our Guidelines, Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.