Blitz twin turbo installation

[Wez]

Keep up the good work Tony

 

That filter is insane.

[TLicense]

Anyone got any thoughts about the air filter?

[Gaz Walker]

Anyone got any thoughts about the air filter?

 

Yeah, looks bloody massive! Its a shame the top of the filter is closed though since that is where the best airflow comes from... Shape is a bit weird - it'll be interesting to see what its like when plumbed in.

 

Regards,

 

Gaz.

[Alex]

Tony,

 

What was the Air filters NA HP rating? It should say in the K&N book.

IMO say it should be at least a 1/2 to 3/4 of the power you're looking for from the turbos to make usre it's not a restriction. But for packaging purposes it looks like a very neat idea.

 

Like the fuel filter too

[TLicense]

Alex,

 

Just checked on the K&N site that I ordered it from. It doesn't have any kind of HP rating. I think it should be OK. If it's a problem, when it's being mapped I'll change it.

 

Cheers.

[TLicense]

Just an update on this.

Nothing has really gone on the car as I'm still waiting for parts to arrive. Mainly some banjo fittings to connect the fuel hoses through the fuel hanger, and also the gaskets and flanges for the turbo's. The good news is that I've got half of the gaskets, and have decided to make the remaining flanges myself. (Having a CNC machine shop at your disposal is a godsend!)

 

Other than that, I've started making up the fuel lines, and pressure testing them. It's quite a lengthy process, as they have to be the right length, and they all have to be pressure tested to twice the working pressure.

The injectors came back a while ago from flow testing and cleaning. A company I can quite happily recommend for doing this is HGL Motors. http://www.injectorcleaning.co.uk/

The injectors I've got are Siemens Deka 3105 low impedance. They're sold as 875cc, but actually flowed 888cc at 3 bar.

The pre and post clean results are as below. Note the values are for the amount of time given above each column, and should be converted to minutes to get meaningful values:-

 

Other things happening, well the fuel filter assembly sticks below the car too much. This is a problem but is easily cured by replacing the upstream straight dry break with a 45degree dry break.

 

I've also made the oil fittings that bolt to the turbo's and join to the block. I've got to make the oil-lines up this week and get them pressure tested.

 

I'm hoping that in the next 2-3 weeks I'll get the remaining bits and then within a couple of weekd of that, it should all be in a state where I can send it off to get the pipes fabricated.

I'm still hoping that everything should be finished this side of winter, but we'll see.

[TLicense]

I've had a result!!

The last of the parts that I've been waiting for the last nearlly 4 months odd for have just arrived!

 

Hopefully (weather permitting!) I can crack on with this at the weekend. Who knows within a month or so, I might even have it back on the road if I'm lucky.

[supra dan]

if the weather is like it is here you wont be doing much

good luck with it , should be fantastic when its finished

[SupraAyf]

This is the best thread that I've ever seen on this forum!!

 

Well Done Sir

/vbb/images/smilies/bbcode_grin.gif

:clap:

[Class One]

Just to let everyone know I'll be trimming down this thread to make it a sticky somewhere in tech.So if you start getting pm's you'll know why.

[TLicense]

Cheers Doug. ;o)

 

Thanks for your kind words SupraAyf.

 

I did a load more work on the car over the weekend fitting the injectors, fuel filter, and pre-fitting all the turbo's and wastegates with the gaskets/flanges. When I get 5 minutes, I'll upload the pics....

 

Cheers,

[Tom]

Fantastic write up & pics, I can't believe how much work is involved, i'm sure this will assist many supra owners!

[Class One]

Right I've copied the pertinent bits from this thread into the technical guides and faq's section.

 

Tony continue to post your excellent guides on here and we will copy them over to the copied thread.

 

[Ian C]

Go Tony Go Tony

 

(I'm guessing this bit won't get into the tech post!)

 

-Ian

[TLicense]

Right,

 

I've done loads of work of late, and hadn't had a chance to write it up so here goes...

 

OK I mentioned that the fuel filter assembly was hanging too far below the car, well I replaced the up-stream fitting with a 45 deg one. The problem with this was that once you've done that, the hose fouls the floor of the car.

To get around this I disassembled the quick release and then using a blow torch heated the fitting up and bent it to the correct angle. It didn't need much. You need to disassemble it first, as there are rubber seals in there which would melt otherwise. This is what it now looks like:-

You can see the evidence of where I heated it up here:-

I did put some rubber between the filter and the mount originally, but after thinking about it, I removed it, as the filter should really be grounded. Here is a picture of the filter fitted. Notice the ground strap will go to the bolt hole on the bracket to the left of the picture:-

This is how low the end of the filter sits now:-

I started to fit the hose the plumbs into this, but I haven't finished modding the fuel pump hanger yet, so will post up the rest of that when that's done (hopefully for next weekend)

 

So with that sorted I pre-fitted the fuel rail and the injectors, with the main aim being to get the hose from the y-piece on the downstream side of the filter to the rail the correct length's.

I spent quite a lot of time routing the hoses so that they're not coming into contact with any of the remaining stock hoses, or anything that is likely to get hacked through by rubbing against the steel braid.

Here's what it looked like:-

[Kranz]

A work of art Tony. What make are the filter & rail?

[TLicense]

Next I wanted to sort out the length of the line from the return on the rail to the FPR.

My FPR will be mounted off of the back of the inlet manifold (where it was mounted before the install) This meant that I had to re-fit the inlet manifold.

I sandlblasted the inlet manifold clean at work a while ago, and couldn't get into the guts of it to get the sand out. So I soaked it in petrol and sloshed it around and then using a sponge cleaned the inside of it out. I was quite pleased with the results:-

With all the ancillaries fitted (Note I've re-fitted the stock pressure sensor, but as this isn't being used in my set-up, it'll soon be junked!):-

Anyway, here's the inlet manifold pre-fitted:-

Note the clearance to the fuel rail:-

And here's the FPR fitted:-

[TLicense]

A work of art Tony. What make are the filter & rail?

 

Cheers.

The rail is powerhouse racing, and the filter is an Aeromotive with about £100 worth of Aeroquip fittings.

[TLicense]

Earlier I also tended to the turbo side.

These are the fittings that I've been waiting for 10 weeks for, along with the gaskets and other flanges:-

Notice the restriction:-

The thread on them were 3/8th's UNF. However the thread was absolutely shocking. So much so I thought they were something else. Not only me but a machinist with over 15 years of F1 experience, the guys at Mardi Gras motorsport at Silverstone (they thought it was some kind of Jap R series thread!) and the guys Trident motorsport at silverstone. In the end, one of the chaps at Earls got it right, and just used a bit of brute force and wound the 3/8th's fitting in :-

So anyway, after that runaround , here's the turbo inlet flange that the fit to:-

Next go's the gasket:-

[TLicense]

And then the fitting:-

Also note in this shot you can see the flanges that come off the back of the turbo. The downpipes will eventually be welded onto these. They're fixed on with 4 M8x20 long cap head bolts, as are all of the oil feeds:-

I then made up one end of the oil line hose and fitted that so I could judge for the length of the line. I was going to go for a 45degree on the other end, but it looks like a straight will fit better. Anyway here's the hose fitted and the Boost logic blanket too:-

[TLicense]

Just before I started to pack up for the night, I figured I'd take a look at the fuel pump ECU area, as I've got to start to think about mounting the twin relay's I've got for the pumps.

To get to the fuel pump ECU, you need to strip a bit of the rear interior.

First of all remove the rearmost panel. There are 5 (IIRC) screws hidden under little covers. Remove them with a flat bladed screwdriver or somesuch, and then remove the screws. The panel should come away, please forgive the state of the boot, but there's a lot going on in there at the moment!:-

Then you need to remove the LHS panel:-

To do this you first need to remove the strut brace cover. There's 3 (again IIRC) screws to undo this. Once that's removed, remove the screw holding the LHS panel. Before you completely yank this out of the car, you may want to undo the connector for the boot light :-

At this point I discovered why my fuel pump was running continuously when I keyed on. It's because JPS had done this to my wiring, I believe it's the 12V mod, but personally I would have preferred them not to have done it, as if I'd had an off, the fuel pump wouldn't have cut out and would have happily pumped petrol until the tank was empty. Cheers guys :-

That's about to where I got, today...

[TLicense]

Ahh, one last thing I did was get a picture of this hose which comes from the charcoal cannister. As I'm a particularly considerate person, and I care for the environment in general (and also as I don't like the smell of petrol flooding the cabin when I'm driving) I'm keeping the charcoal cannister, but can't remember if this hose effectively just get's plumbed into the intake side before/after the turbo's. If anyone can tell me, I'd be much obliged!:-

 

 

Cheers!

[Syed Shah]

Yes it does. And great thread mate!

[Ian C]

Nice scotchlok Tony I know a few people who's cars pump runs continuously with the ignition on

 

Those turbos are a work of art, lots of caphead bolts

 

-Ian

[TLicense]

Nice scotchlok Tony I know a few people who's cars pump runs continuously with the ignition on

 

Those turbos are a work of art, lots of caphead bolts

 

-Ian

 

It's sooo dangerous, it really riles me. I spent absolutely bloody ages trying to get the AEM to turn the pumps off as well, only to trace it back to this! Don't even get me started on the bloody skotchlok! I certainly never asked for it to be done, I think it might have been a band aid to help a poor idle.

Oh well at least now I know what it is and can take steps to sort it!

 

I must admit I'm pretty pleased with the turbo's myself. We pretty much only use CH bolts here at work in the aero dept. They pretty much only use NAS bolts on the car, but they're mucho expensivo.

 

I would say though that I'm a little suprised with quite a few of the gotcha's this kit offers. For example, quite a few of the studs for the exhaust manifold end up too close to the bottom of the exhaust runners and the nuts end up fouling either the runner, or foul the weld between the flange and the runner. For example:-

I'm not quite sure how I'm going to get around this. I'm going to have to get my fabricator to modify it somehow, but I really don't want to grind the runner, or more importantly the weld back, as it'll weaken the manifold. Any suggestions anyone?

 

Yes it does. And great thread mate!

 

Cheers mate, do you know which side of the compressor it goes? I'm guessing between the turbo and the IC right?