Blitz twin turbo installation

[TLicense]

Next remove the idle solenoid control valve connector:-

Disconnect the turbo pressure sensor connector. I don't use the stock sensor, even though it is still attached to the intake chamber:-

Here's my AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor, that I'm using instead:-

The manual for the UK says to remove the VSV for fuel pressure control, but this doesn't look like a VSV. I think it's the intake temp. sensor, which the UK spec doesn't have (mines a J-spec):-

 

Next remove the PCV hose from the VSV valve:-

 

I also have my Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator attached to the back of the intake chamber, which I had to remove:-

 

Next remove the Water bypass hose from the ISC valve to the no.4 by-pass hose. I found it a lot easier to actually remove the ISC valve from the intake manifold, and then disconnect the hoses there. There's 2 bolts for the ISC valve:-

[TLicense]

There's a one way valve to prevent air blowing backwards through the ISC valve. Note the orientation for when you re-install:-

 

Next remove the EVAP hose from the vacuum pipe on the manifold stay:-

And the EVAP hose from the vacuum pipe on the no.4 water bypass pipe to the no.2 vacuum pipe, unfortunatey I didn't get a good pic of it, but it's the hose under the purple connector for my MAP sensor. Also in the pic is the Power steering air hose for the intake chamber, which also needs to be removed:-

Next remove the brake booster vacuum hose. There's a couple of copper washers, remove them too:-

Next remove the EVAP hose from the charcoal cannister from the no.2 vacuum pipe:-

Next remove the no.4 water bypass pipe, there's 2 bolts:-

[TLicense]

Next remove the intake manifold stay, there's 1 bolt at the top, and 1 at the bottom. I couldn't get a decent shot of the lower bolt. If you follow the stay down though, it's easiest to get to the lower bolt from under the car:-

 

Next remove the electrical wire clamp. This is a bit of a nightmare job, as there isn't lots of room between the end of the manifold and the firewall. If you use a short 12mm socket it will help for the second bolt. I used a 12mm spanner for the first bolt:-

Next remove the ground wire from the intake manifold, you can just make it out here:-

Next remove the bolt from the clamp that holds the diagnostic port:-

 

Next remove the 5 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the intake chamber on (There's another 2 bolts that I didn't manage to get pics of, they're right under the manifold, under the no.2 and no.5 runners) :-

[TLicense]

With those removed you can remove the intake manifold:-

 

You should be left with an engine bay that looks like this, remove the gasket for the inlet manifold:-

 

Next to remove the injector rail, first of all remove the stock fuel pressure regulator. As I've got an aftermarket one, it was just a case of removing the adaptor:-

Next remove all of the injector connectors. You may want to label them, but to be honest they'll pretty much only go on the injector they should go to as the loom points them in the right direction. Also remove the two camshaft position sensors:-

Next remove the fuel inlet pipe, place a towel under the union as you undo it to prevent fuel spillage:-

 

Remove the 6 bolts and the 3 injector holder plates:-

 

Next remove the 2 bolts holding the injector rail, the first pic is rubbish, sorry, but the bolt is the one in the middle:-

[TLicense]

With those two bolts removed the rail should just pull off:-

 

Be careful to collect all the injector insulators, here you can see the one on the left was left on the manifold, whilst the one on the right came away with the rail:-

 

Here's what the rail looks like removed:-

 

You should now be left with something looking like this:-

 

That's it for if you're just replacing the injectors. I'll be fitting my new rail and injectors in a couple of weeks time, so I'll post up how to fit them. In the mean while I continued with cleaning up the bits I wanted to remove.

 

To get to the pressure cannistor and the fuel pulsation dampener I decided to remove the inlet manifold runners.

To do this first of all unbolt the pressure cannistor, and remove the two hoses for the VSV, and the two hoses to the actual cannistor, here you can just make out the VSV, there's a bolt either side that you need to undo:-

 

With that undone, next undo the 2 bolts holding the wiring loom:-

 

and the bolt holding the fuel inlet pipe:-

 

With that done, it's just a case of undoing the 8 fasteners holding the inlet runner on:-

 

And then you can remove the pressure cannistor:-

[TLicense]

And you should be left with this:-

 

Next to remove the fuel pulsation dampener, I chose to undo the line from the filter to the dampener, as this is going to be replaced anyway:-

 

There's 2 bolts holding the fuel pulsation dampener. They were done up real tight:-

 

With them undone, you can remove the fuel pulsation dampener:-

 

And that was pretty much it for today!

[DamanC]

Remind me never to do anything like this myself!

 

Fantastic write up so far buddy

[Gaz Walker]

Now I see why you need the gaskets so quickly!

 

Awesome write-up Tony!

 

Gaz.

[TLicense]

LOL cheers guys, hopefully the final install will actually be worthy of similar compliments.

[TLicense]

Cleaned up the inlet manifold runners today.

Remember before:-

After:-

With the powerhouse racing fuel rail and a couple of injectors fitted:-

 

Am quite pleased with it if I say so myself

[Ian C]

How did you clean the runners up that well?

 

-Ian

[Tricky-Ricky]

Looks like bead or sandblasting to me.

[Lucifer]

I'm puttin gmy money on Glass beads.

[TLicense]

Correct, sandblasted

[Lucifer]

Looking GREAT Tony. SHould be a real nice engine bay after.

[dandan]

Good choice in fuel rail too - same as me!

[TLicense]

Well it was a fantastic day, so I thought I'd do some more work out on the car, although didn't get much done as I kept going inside to get a drink and getting distracted by the racing on the tele.

Anyway, I basically spent some time today starting to tidy up a few odds and sods seeing as hopefully I should have the remaining bits I've been waiting for this week, and will be able to install them the coming weekend.

 

I removed the fuel regulator, which was attached solely by the return hose:-

 

 

Then I removed the fuel filter, there's the two bolts holding the filter on, the earth cable, and of-course the captive connector for the supply hose. Note the cross section of the supply. This is being replaced with a -8 line:-

 

I also removed the fuel filter mounting bracket, as I'm going to need to fasten the aeromotive filter that's replacing the stock filter somehow, so will need to fabricate some kind of bracket.

 

The keener eyed ones amongst you, would have noticed that I've not removed the catalytic convertor completely yet. This is because the temp probe's fixing bolts (Note, I don't think UK cars have this) were 9/10's of the way to being completely rounded off. I had to remove the temp probe anyway, so figured I'd disconnect the probe which goes into the cabin via a grommet in the floor, and remove the whole lot in one go.

 

To do this, first of all I removed the drivers foot rest:-

 

Then the kick panel and lower door trim:-

[TLicense]

Then if you pull the carpet back from the front of the centre consol, you'll see this connector:-

 

If you disconnect this, and then follow the loom down to the floor, you'll find this grommet:-

 

If you push this grommet through the bottom of the floor using a screwdriver, you should then be able to pull the loom through, and then completely remove the catalytic convertor:-

Here you can see the grommet. I'll need to find a standard one of these to block the hole back up:-

[TLicense]

WOHOOOO air filter has just arrived! Only took 5 weeks. I'll post some pics up when I get home.

Seeing as I'm 6 weeks into the 8 week deadline I gave myself, and I'm still waiting for gaskets/flanges/resistor packs/dry break couplings, it looks like it's going to take me well into Autumn before it's finished, and I don't fancy much learning to drive a car with the kind of power this is going to be making during the Winter, so it looks like it's not going to be making much of a debut before next Spring. Gutted.

[Ben-san]

Good stuff Tony, it's been a really interesting read so far. Hopefully the summer will last through august for you to make the progress you need.

[michael]

What filter did you go for in the end Tony?

[TLicense]

It's a K&N off the shelf job.

[TLicense]

Parts all starting to roll in at last! Still waiting on Gaskets and Flanges though, although I shouldn't think they'll be long now.

 

Anyway here's the filter I bought, what's your thought's chaps?

 

 

And the last few parts for my fuel filter assembly came in today

 

 

No fuel leaking onto me when I have to strip it down and replace the filter :-

 

I also stripped the stock fuel lines and test fitted the -8 feed and -6 return lines on my day off yesterday. I then had to strip them back out to make the lines up, which I did tonight at work. They're being pressure tested at just over twice their maximum working pressure (150psi) tomorrow morning. When I get 5 minutes I'll post up pics.

[michael]

Filter looks like it's going to be up for the job

[TLicense]

It's mahooosive. The whole assembly is 17inches long.

 

It fit's like a peach into the existing bracket too.