Frank Bullitt Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 You haven’t been out for a ride in one Supra? Whilst VVT-i is nice, it’s not the b all and end all. It has perks of the adjustable intake cam but has an awful hybrid (cable & motor) throttle body. You really need sit down and decide what it is you want, no offence intended but you sound like the money is burning a hole in your pocket. Maybe you should go back and re-evaluate what is important to you with regards to Supra ownership. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D1andonlyantman Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 (edited) The money isn't burning a hole, but at the same time it's no use in my bank. I want a car. There's no point in dithering. I bailed on the other one which shows I'm not looking to give my money away for the wrong car, but if I see a nice car for reasonable money, why not act? My friend actually has a vvti with dodgy throttle body that occasionally goes into limp mode. Am I better off going for non vvti? I want what everyone wants I think. A decent supra that will take some mods well when it comes down to it, and turn a few heads every now and then. Buying the most sought after model seems to make good sense from an investment perspective, plus I hear it makes better power through the range rather than just peak? Nope, not one. Edited March 9, 2018 by D1andonlyantman (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 (edited) The VVT-i doesn’t look bad, front bumper isn’t to my taste but we are all different in that respect. It’s much better than the first one you looked at and appears to be cleaner underneath. The pipework under the bonnet is unsightly but that is easily remedied and as I said above you want the OEM airbox fitted back into on. Get a good look at the rad where the upper water pipe connects. The engine moves but the radiator doesn’t, changing the rubber upper waterpipe to a solid one can cause the radiator neck to snap. Especially as the plastic becomes weaker with age. I would try and get a good look at the front, specifically at the panel gaps. I hate arty angles as they can be used to hide previous history of an accident and if you don’t know what you are looking at it can be easily missed. Regarding non-VVT-I vs. VVT-i it’s your preference Stupid question but how do you know you don’t want an auto/tiptronic over a manual if you haven’t been out in any to be able to objectively compare them? E2A Do you know if it is OEM colour? Edited March 10, 2018 by Frank Bullitt (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D1andonlyantman Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 He's sent me these vids. In the 2nd one it shows a badge in the bay at the end if that's any help to you? Can't be SURE I only want a manual, but that's a big part of driving imo. Dropping a gear as you're slowing for a roundabout, ripping up through the gears, I know an auto or tiptronic might be quicker, but for me I think id rather sacrifice the speed. Truth be told, id rather not spend all 24k, but if that's the 'better' more sought after model, id feel my money is safer on that Cheers for the tips, all things to look out for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 (edited) The A03B is desireable, the V161 is the later gearbox with updated ratios. It must be the moody photos, the car looked Greenish to my eyes. According to the plate the colour is Quicksilver. Seriously get yourself to a local meet or ask local members with a TT to take you out and show you what the car can do at BPU. Ideally manual, auto and tiptronic. I can understand the desire for a manual in a race car but these are GT cars. They really do lend themselves to being auto and if you go auto there is no clutch to pay for. If you want to flip through gears seriously consider the VVT-I tiptronic. You can change the steering wheel for something more modern with integrated paddleshifts or fit your own. It’s an easy job to swap over and wire up. E2A All the spec matches the VIN, see the image attached. Edited March 9, 2018 by Frank Bullitt (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
214supra Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Face-lift car with pre face-lift seats? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D1andonlyantman Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 I've got a friend who is currently looking at swapping his tip for a manual box. I know what you're saying, and I do value opinions on here as I'm total noob, but I can't see me preferring auto or tiptronic. I won't track it, I'll just have the occasional little thrash with mates, go to a few car shows each year and generally look cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Face-lift car with pre face-lift seats? Nothing unusual there. The front seats were probably changed over in Japan by the original owner then swapped for the pre-facelift cloth seats once they decided to sell the car. The FF20 trim code is cloth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 What is the mileage? Do you know if it was bought in Japan from a dealer or won in an auction? Is it registered in the UK or has that still got to be done? It needs to be under sealed. For the asking price I would be wanting the black “leather” interior. You could be cheeky and try and use the cloth interior and under sealing as a way to barter on price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D1andonlyantman Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 After some talking he agreed to come down from the asking price. I told him my situation. He bought it from a company in Harlow who's name i cannot remember. 60k miles, owned as a daily by a famous jap drifter. Registered now, he got the docs literally today. And Yeah, I'm aware of it needing undersealing. Can that wait a month or 2? Won't be driven in crap weather anyway. He told me it's got no stereo in it but that doesn't bother me tbh. I'll double din it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 (edited) Harlow Jap Autos? He bought it from an importer but is now selling it on? Why? Try and find out if it was bought from a dealer or won in an auction in Japan. If it was an auction it will show what they graded the car at and there will be paperwork. It would be worth your while ringing the original importer to quiz them about the car. Any Japanese paperwork? The Japanese drifter won’t add any value in my opinion. If it was a head honcho at Toyota maybe, a Japanese tuning company definitely. If you can’t prove the mileage take it with a pinch of salt, years ago the magic number was 50K miles. I would get it under sealed ASAP. http://www.jrclassics.co.uk Edited March 9, 2018 by Frank Bullitt Link added. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D1andonlyantman Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 I don't think it's got any jap paperwork. He said he's got 3 more coming, maybe he's importing a load through Harlow autos? But I will phone them tomorrow to see what's what. I've got 2 friends who already have jap cars with no paperwork, is it the end of the world if it hasn't got any? I'll be sure to check for a lifting dash due to heat warp, the seats look immaculate as you probsbly saw in the vid. Again, I won't go there and throw my money at him, but I see no reason to waste time. I know he's busy in the afternoon so probably won't have any other viewings, so I'll try to let him know later on that same day if possible. I quite like the look of the black non vvti too though tbh. Decisions decisions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 (edited) So potentially an importer/dealer? Having no paperwork isn’t the end of the world but it is nice as it backs up what you are being told. If there isn’t any you just need to be more vigilant when checking the car over. Where is the car located? If it’s local to any forum traders it would be worth getting them to pop it on the ramp and give it a health full check for peace of mind. Again compression/leakdown would be nice. Complete fluid change including all filters would be advisable along with a decent set of plugs and air filter. Check the brake lines and fuel lines just to be safe. Being a fresh import it “should” be okay. Is the Black one a forum car? If going to view it start a thread asking if any owners would be willing to go and view it with you as you were going to do with the Irish car. Edited March 10, 2018 by Frank Bullitt (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D1andonlyantman Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 Yeah the black one is a forum car. Tbh I think id actually prefer it, it has a small but nice little collection of basic mods, looks very well maintained, and he's said he's 90% sure he'll sell it to me for 20k firm. 5p sized patch of rust on the boot which isn't rare, and the skirts aren't perfect but he's just being picky, and it's a lovely car. The main thing the other has over it is the vvti tbh, and being a fresh import, but that is gonna empty my bank account and then some after the underseal. It's a tough one. Cheers, I'll make a post about someone having a look with me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D1andonlyantman Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 (edited) 90% of the car was amazing. Under side was immaculate, looked in the boot, under the bonnet, down the bay, everywhere. Only rust was on the occasional jubilee clip or something like that, and by the battery tray there were a couple of patches of rust that would need treating. I'm going to say from an acid spill because it was so concentrated to one area. Bodywork was faultless in general. Interior left a lot to be desired. Carpets etc were fine but gauges etc being removed had scuffed up the main dash area. The passenger airbag cover had some small holes, the centre console was a bit marked, and an aftermarket steering wheel had some plugs exposed at the base of the wheel, not the column. Also the tray bit underneath was dodgy and hit my legs. There was some tape... Worst part for me was the rear wheel rubbing when turning with any pace. I checked the arches, one was ok, one had lost some paint and had the first signs of rust. Not rot, just discoloration around the edge of the flakey area. Let's say an inch long as the top of the arch. For me that means potentially a rear quarter needs painting, plus new wheels or suspension if the current suspension can't be raised. After purchase price and underseal, the prospect of sorting wheels/suspension and an arch is too much I think. I earn a reasonable amount but the pricetag is getting bigger and bigger. What are people's views? I'll upload some pics, but my phone died by arch pic time, so I don't have that one. You know what I mean though. E2A One more thing. What's up with those sequential turbos lol at first I was thinking "man this thing needs a remap or something" but then at 4k ish I guess the 2nd turbo cones into play and we we're off. I mapped my evo so it was coming in at 2500 and hitting 1.8 bar at 3500. One minute, nothing, the next you're pinned. That's how boost should be imo lol Edited March 10, 2018 by D1andonlyantman (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 I don't think many (any?) Supras are going to have what you Evo had low down boost wise! Go look at the black one, at least then you have a direct comparison. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D1andonlyantman Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 Well the evo was 2l, so 1.8 is comparable to 1.2 in the supra I guess, but let's just say I like the boost to come in strong Yeah that's not a bad idea. He's unsure at the moment, I'll send him a little message to let him know i didn't grab the other one. Do Toyota still sell all the dash pieces? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D1andonlyantman Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 Only real rust on it. Right by the battery. Worrying or easily sorted and job done? I'm thinking maybe I should take it. Adjustable suspension so I can raise the rear. It's only rubbing because he lives somewhere really hilly. Then sort the arch where the wheel touched, and it's just the dodgy dash. Any opinions more than welcome!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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