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Over heating Issues continue, the fun continues... Please help


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Head gasket may be £1k+ to do, but getting someone like Keron to do an N/A-N/A swap will be a lot less, I'm planning on getting an eco freindly diesel soon aswell so I could always give you a lift from Keron's back to the port and back again for minimal diesel costs if needs be :)

 

Thanks bud for the offer! Great club spirit, maybe I will look into this however i am tempted to just cut my losses and get a new one now. Or sell it on with the problem to someone who could fix it them selves.

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why not just bite the bulletg and get a tt lump in there bud :)

 

This is not an option now, Img going to go TT and I am just going to buy one. Putting a TT and 6 speed box in mine will just be dead money and for the same out lay i could buy a TT6 which will hold its value better.

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Head gasket may be £1k+ to do, but getting someone like Keron to do an N/A-N/A swap will be a lot less, I'm planning on getting an eco freindly diesel soon aswell so I could always give you a lift from Keron's back to the port and back again for minimal diesel costs if needs be :)

 

You know unless it's got really hot and done damage to cams, head etc, you should be able to do a HG change for much less than a grand imo. I know the gasket sets are expensive but if you look around you could find a HG on its own and with care get away with it. Or as someone already mentioned, NA engines are as cheap as chips. If you were local to me I would offer to help, but you are miles away!

 

EDIT: Actually if you go for a non oem one, they are not expensive at all. Whats more you could probably flog the left overs for a few quid. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEAD-GASKET-SET-TOYOTA-SUPRA-3-0-LEXUS-GS300-24V-2JZGE-/390090665254?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5ad3372d26#ht_4113wt_811

Edited by Shane
added a bit/link (see edit history)
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Alright bud, can't belive your na has actualy gone wrong!!!! Anyway on a more positive note I've seen prices of 1k plus flying around for a head gasket change from a garage which I'm sure is not wrong however is it totaly out of the question to do it yourself? If you have the time to do it and just be patient noting down where everything goes its actualy not as bad as you may think especially on the na engine.

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Alright bud, can't belive your na has actualy gone wrong!!!! Anyway on a more positive note I've seen prices of 1k plus flying around for a head gasket change from a garage which I'm sure is not wrong however is it totaly out of the question to do it yourself? If you have the time to do it and just be patient noting down where everything goes its actualy not as bad as you may think especially on the na engine.

 

I know suck hay, tbh i cant believe she has gone wrong either. It really is out the question, i just cant do it nor do i have the time to do it, its catch 22 for me :(

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I know suck hay, tbh i cant believe she has gone wrong either. It really is out the question, i just cant do it nor do i have the time to do it, its catch 22 for me :(

 

I recs put aside one weekend take ya time an change the gasket......job done problem solved plus ull save a load of cash!

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Mate, if you havent got time to find out if the HG has failed and replace it if it has, I honestly cant see you having the time to break it. Get a sniff test done and that may confirm your worse fears that the HG has failed, although I know from experience this isnt 100% conclusive, but probably 95%. If there are exhaust gasses present then take your time and by time we are talking maybe 3 hours to carefully pull the head off and take a look what's going on. Worse case scenario you need another head and I may be able to help you with that, best case you put a new HG on and get your motor back. Seems Like you have tried the most likely things other than the HG test, so just go to the next step. Pull the rad out while you are at it and give it a good flush, bang a new stat in and water pump if you can afford it and it should be fine. As for not trusting a non OEM HG, I wouldnt lose too much sleep over it tbh, I am sure it will be fine on a stock ge and if you took it to a local garage they would most likely use a non oem one anyhow unless you asked them not to. The NA engine is imo pretty damn bullet proof and very forgiving. Go for it, you will feel good when you fix it believe me.

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Mate, if you havent got time to find out if the HG has failed and replace it if it has, I honestly cant see you having the time to break it. Get a sniff test done and that may confirm your worse fears that the HG has failed, although I know from experience this isnt 100% conclusive, but probably 95%. If there are exhaust gasses present then take your time and by time we are talking maybe 3 hours to carefully pull the head off and take a look what's going on. Worse case scenario you need another head and I may be able to help you with that, best case you put a new HG on and get your motor back. Seems Like you have tried the most likely things other than the HG test, so just go to the next step. Pull the rad out while you are at it and give it a good flush, bang a new stat in and water pump if you can afford it and it should be fine. As for not trusting a non OEM HG, I wouldnt lose too much sleep over it tbh, I am sure it will be fine on a stock ge and if you took it to a local garage they would most likely use a non oem one anyhow unless you asked them not to. The NA engine is imo pretty damn bullet proof and very forgiving. Go for it, you will feel good when you fix it believe me.

 

Ye what he said:)

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Mate, if you havent got time to find out if the HG has failed and replace it if it has, I honestly cant see you having the time to break it. Get a sniff test done and that may confirm your worse fears that the HG has failed, although I know from experience this isnt 100% conclusive, but probably 95%. If there are exhaust gasses present then take your time and by time we are talking maybe 3 hours to carefully pull the head off and take a look what's going on. Worse case scenario you need another head and I may be able to help you with that, best case you put a new HG on and get your motor back. Seems Like you have tried the most likely things other than the HG test, so just go to the next step. Pull the rad out while you are at it and give it a good flush, bang a new stat in and water pump if you can afford it and it should be fine. As for not trusting a non OEM HG, I wouldnt lose too much sleep over it tbh, I am sure it will be fine on a stock ge and if you took it to a local garage they would most likely use a non oem one anyhow unless you asked them not to. The NA engine is imo pretty damn bullet proof and very forgiving. Go for it, you will feel good when you fix it believe me.

 

I have had a sniff test done a zero hydro carbons where picked up, water looks fine too. And the car now has a new stat, water pump etc just the rad and head. Going to pop into toyota and see if they can do a compression test tommorow.

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Well you have done pretty much what you can now other than to pull the head, you've gone this far it seems a shame not to finish it. From your description of whats going on it doesnt sound as though the water jacket is getting compressed though so not sure what a compression test is going to tell you, but who knows. If you kill it soon after it starts to overheat, when it has cooled right down does it take more coolant or is it still at the same level it was?

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Jake if you need a hand mate just say. I'll do what I can. Not to familiar with the Supra engine as fairly new to it but done HG before, step by step process and as Shane says on an NA don't worry about a OEM gasket, a garage wouldn't and it will almost certainly be fine as it’s an old set up and these companies have had time to get it right. Certainly worth getting a sniff test and in my experience with these things it's worth doing a couple more flush throughs as air in the system can be a real bitch.

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Well you have done pretty much what you can now other than to pull the head, you've gone this far it seems a shame not to finish it. From your description of whats going on it doesnt sound as though the water jacket is getting compressed though so not sure what a compression test is going to tell you, but who knows. If you kill it soon after it starts to overheat, when it has cooled right down does it take more coolant or is it still at the same level it was?

 

At normal driving it doesnt over heat, but since the newp pump and stat where fitted the coollant level is staying bang on. It goes up as normal when hot not by much just the normall, then drops to the same level. so its not using fluid.

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Jake if you need a hand mate just say. I'll do what I can. Not to familiar with the Supra engine as fairly new to it but done HG before, step by step process and as Shane says on an NA don't worry about a OEM gasket, a garage wouldn't and it will almost certainly be fine as it’s an old set up and these companies have had time to get it right. Certainly worth getting a sniff test and in my experience with these things it's worth doing a couple more flush throughs as air in the system can be a real bitch.

 

Cheers Adam, maybe this could be an option then... I have had a sniff test done and all is well. I have been told it could be an air lock but both me and the garage have bled the syetem countless times now.

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Just re read the whole thread again and it reminded me of something from years ago. I used to run a Fiat Ducato van and the HG went, I pulled it to bits and stuck a new head gasket on in the dark. It ran fine until it was under any sort of load and then the gauge used to shoot up rapidly, take it off load and it slowly dropped. I spent hours and hours on it and lost lots of sleep, took the head off again and had it checked for cracks and got them to skim it and after putting back together it still did the same. Eventually I was put onto this guy who knew those engines really well and he said straight away that I had put the HG on upside down or back to front (cant remember which) and in doing so had blocked one of the main waterways. I was very sceptical and pulled it to bits once more only to discover he was right and it cured the problem.

 

Now I know you have not had you head off, but cant help wonder if something has blocked one of your water ways up. Had the original cap, stat or pump broken up at all?

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Just re read the whole thread again and it reminded me of something from years ago. I used to run a Fiat Ducato van and the HG went, I pulled it to bits and stuck a new head gasket on in the dark. It ran fine until it was under any sort of load and then the gauge used to shoot up rapidly, take it off load and it slowly dropped. I spent hours and hours on it and lost lots of sleep, took the head off again and had it checked for cracks and got them to skim it and after putting back together it still did the same. Eventually I was put onto this guy who knew those engines really well and he said straight away that I had put the HG on upside down or back to front (cant remember which) and in doing so had blocked one of the main waterways. I was very sceptical and pulled it to bits once more only to discover he was right and it cured the problem.

 

Now I know you have not had you head off, but cant help wonder if something has blocked one of your water ways up. Had the original cap, stat or pump broken up at all?

 

hmm maybe this is something to look into. All the original parts seemed to be fine on removal though but I suppose there could be a possibility there was already somthing in the system and it finally bloked.

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Cheers Adam, maybe this could be an option then... I have had a sniff test done and all is well. I have been told it could be an air lock but both me and the garage have bled the syetem countless times now.

 

Hi mate. If sniff test was good I know it seems like it might not be worth it but with all you have done I would keep trying to flush it through for an air lock. I had the same thing on a Mexico and done the lot but it turned out to be an air lock but took sooooo many times of flushing and filling and draining to sort it out. A pain I know but that is a real possibility.

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Hi mate. If sniff test was good I know it seems like it might not be worth it but with all you have done I would keep trying to flush it through for an air lock. I had the same thing on a Mexico and done the lot but it turned out to be an air lock but took sooooo many times of flushing and filling and draining to sort it out. A pain I know but that is a real possibility.

 

Maybe I will give it another bash and see what happens, the supra is such a PITA to bleed, why did they not bother with a bleed valve.

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I'd be inclined to pop another rad on it before you give up but i dont see why you

have such a struggle bleeding any air out.

 

Unless its being drawn into the system via say a crack in the head, block or the

headgasket is failing but then you'd have thought a sniff test would show up

something

Edited by Dnk (see edit history)
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I'd be inclined to pop another rad on it before you give up but i dont see why you

have such a struggle bleeding any air out.

 

Unless its being drawn into the system via say a crack in the head, block or the

headgasket is failing but then you'd have thought a sniff test would show up

something

 

I was just going to say the same thing.

 

I know it has been suggested before and I was sure I had told you about my experiences, but I haven't, must be getting old.

 

I have had 3 vehicles in the past that have been fine at 55-60mph and at idle etc but as soon as I either went over 6omph ish or uphill they would get hot and often boil. several flushes later and none of them got any better. The Rad would flow fine and clean with a hose.

 

Everyone of them was resolved with a new rad. The water doesn't enter a rad and then follow a path through every waterway and then exit, It can bypass any blocked horizontal path. As such you could have many blocked parts in the rad that a flush wouldn't get to but it would still seem to flow fine. This would seriously impair the cooling of the rad while under strain or at speed.

 

Even changing to a different front bumper with a slightly different sized air intake can seriously affect the cooling properties.

 

I realise it has been suggested, I'm just trying to add detail as to why it would be a good thing to try. In my past vehicles I did exactly the same as you, new pump, new cap etc which helped as it made the whole system slightly better but under strain the main culprit would still overpower the new pump etc

 

Rob

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