Nic Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Will definitely be honing the block. Like you said would be silly not to. Would rather not put new pistons in so will be looking for a good old boy, know anyone? If you're stripping the engine down anyway it would make sense to get the engine bored to get rid of the scoring and fit new pistons, I *think* Toyota do oversize pistons if you want to stay stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Yep, would be stark staring madness not to rebore and fit new pistons. Wiseco forged ones are cheap, quiet and good quality, probably cheaper than stock. Do Toyota do an oversize? It seems not: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 OOO i like i like. I might have to come over at some point and take a looky see. Glad you like it Russ. This is going to take me a while to do. Just taking it steady and not rush things as I don't want to do this twice. Also as with the marks in the bores you always discover additional things to do. If you want to travel to Wales to have a look one weekend fill your boots but it's quite a trek for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 Would still say it's airborne dirt that has caused it. Very typical of poor filtration or no filtration. See it a lot in F3 engines that, in the search for the last 1/4 BHP run no filters at all. HKS filters do this too. Could be dirt in the oil but the crank bearings and oil pump would show this badly if that were the case. Well this is probably it then. When I got the car it had a very nasty HKS induction kit on it. Damn this shoddy bit of kit. Well new pistons it is then. Will take a look at what's available and update shortly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Do Toyota do an oversize? It seems not: Had it in my head they did, could well be wrong though, don't have the EPC here to check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markybhoy86 Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 yeah thats the same way to do scoobs and some skylines, really easy- supras a push or pull type clutch? (my last post, dont wana spam things up lol) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 OK I have been having a look at pistons. Keen to keep the stock rods so was wondering what the best options were for pistons. I also want to keep the stock compression ratio which I believe is 8:5:1 Have seen pistons by JE, CP, Mahle, Wiseco, Wossner? etc.. Bearing in mind of my power target of approximately 650bhp at the flywheel what do you think would be the best choice? After the rebore the pistons will be 86.5mm as I'm hoping the rebore will only be 0.5mm as the marks on the 4th bore are quite light. Opinions please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyh Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 pm'd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 OK another update for you. Looks like I will be going with a set of Mr Whiffin's Mahle pistons. Possibly a bit OTT, but why not. These won't be ordered until I have had the block sent away and the bore checked and rebored if required (which seems likely). Hopefully I will end up with a 86.5mm bore and I can then order these lovely pistons. I have been working on the head today. I brought this back from Wales so I could do something at home. I don't have very good facilities at home so please forgive the potting shed setup in the background of the images. Some of the ancillaries had already been taken off the had so what I mainly needed to do was remove the exhaust studs, remaining head bolt washers, two cam sensors and then remove the valves and stem seals. First I removed the spark plugs. Easy stuff. Then the two cam sensors. Each is held on with two bolts. Again there cam of very easily. I have marked which on came from where but I'm not sure how important this is. Here is removing the exhaust studs. I used a female torque size E8. I then removed the remaining head stud washers which I found. I should have removed these before but forgot..woops. Next I used a tool to compress the valve spring. Once compressed I then had to remove the collets, there are two of there per valve. After this I removed the valve spring retainer? The thing in top of the valve spring. Then you need to remove the spring. Funnily enough then you need to remove the valve by pushing it through. Then you will need to remove the old oil valve stem seal. These can be easily removed using a needle nose pliers. You will need to store all the parts in order as they will need to go back in the same place, especially the valves themselves. As such I used a piece of cardboard!! At the end I celebrated with a cup of tea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky49 Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Coming along nicely bud well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra matt Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 nice work mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 Cheers guys. It's daunting to begin with but very enjoyable and I am learning loads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 nice stuff, it is good fun and the back ache is nice!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 nice stuff, it is good fun and the back ache is nice!! yep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 An update as it has been a little while. The bare head was taken to AFR Tuning. I have cleaned up the mating surface but I wanted the head cleaned properly and the head checked for any distortion using better equipment then I have available. The head is also going to be port matched and tidied up slightly over the stock casting. The block is still down in Wales and is awaiting some parts to arrive from Mr Whiffin so that it can be sent away for a good clean and the rebore. The first post has been updated with the spec so far, but I have decided on the following: -Mahle pro series pistons 86.5 mm due to needing the rebore. -Manley H beam rods with ARP 3/8 2000 rod bolts. -A set of whifbitz vernier cams gears to go with my 264 cams. I have also been able to get hold of a set of standard ACL race bearings. A full set including the thrust, rod and main bearings. The company I got them from has a few sets in stock so PM me if your after some as I know they are a pain to get hold of in the UK. I have cleaned up a few items made from aluminium, such as the engine support mounts and the alternator. You can see the difference on the mounts below: Over the last few days I have been looking over the valves I removed from the head. I have given each of them a clean. The intake valves look OK but I think the exhaust valves have a bit of pitting on them and might need replacing? Any thoughts or suggestions? Here are a few pictures of the valves before and after. Intake valve before: Intake valve after: Exhaust valve before: Exhaust valve after: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 Get the exhaust valves ground on a modern and decent valve facing machine. They WOULD lap in, but it will take ages. The machinist must take JUST the minimum off to remove the erosion pits. The joys of unleaded fuel The exhaust valve seats can just be kissed by touching them with a stone. If you get them done, with the valves, on say a Serdi machine in good order, then there's no need to lap them in, they'll be perfect straight off the machine. Things in drill bits and hand held tools will mean lapping in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bailey. Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 Great progress fella, any idea on when you want it completed by or is it just a when its done its done type of thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 some really good builds happening lately, makes a great read. nice work mate. keep the updates coming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 Get the exhaust valves ground on a modern and decent valve facing machine. They WOULD lap in, but it will take ages. The machinist must take JUST the minimum off to remove the erosion pits. The joys of unleaded fuel The exhaust valve seats can just be kissed by touching them with a stone. If you get them done, with the valves, on say a Serdi machine in good order, then there's no need to lap them in, they'll be perfect straight off the machine. Things in drill bits and hand held tools will mean lapping in. Cheers for the input Chris. Do think I have gone too far with the cleaning of the valves? I was concerned about cleaning away the profile as there are ribbed sections on the valves and I thought they were there for a reason. I pretty much worked on the assumption that they came as clean metal so they can go back to that without too much incident. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 Great progress fella, any idea on when you want it completed by or is it just a when its done its done type of thing? To be honest it's all down to time. I wanted to do as much as possible because I wanted to learn as much as I can and have the satisfaction of knowing I had done it myself. Also being honest money is a controlling factor but only in as much as I only buy things as and when I can afford them. I've also found as I have gone along the shopping list of parts has increased. My ultimate goal is to have it up and running by next year. The car is having a good clean and a few parts resprayed including the engine bay, so there are other things to consider. Just want to do things properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted May 14, 2011 Author Share Posted May 14, 2011 Well it's been awhile now and there has been little progress I'm afraid. I have been waiting for parts which have now arrived and I need to go back to Wales and pick up the block and drop it off at AFR with dude along with the pistons etc.. I'm close to purchasing the biggest part f the build which I have decided will now be a Whifbitz batmowheel S366. The housing will be polished and the manifold zircotec coated. I will also be getting one the nice titanium turbo blankets to help keep under bonnet temps down. A couple of weeks back we finished stripping down the engine. Unfortunately I found some uneven wear on the second rod bearings. At first I thought that it might be a bent rod. Either way luckily the rods wont be used again and the crank appears fine but will be fully inspected before we progress to see if the journal is tapered from the wear. Also I want to stop whatever happened from happening again. The wear is on opposite side to one another at TDC and BDC. All will say is that I have found a couple of things which have needed attention in my engine build which showed no signs whatsoever when the car was running. I am very glad I went this route with the single build. God knows what would have happened if I had just bolted a big fat single to it without resolving these issues. I think I would likely have been looking at a new engine. Well seeing as there is little else to show you here are some picture of my new parts. Come on we all love pictures it's what makes a thread fun If people are interested in the cost of this build I can put a costing on the front page of the thread. It's far from cheap. At the end of the build I will likely have spent around £10K. Remember the turbo kit alone is worth around £4.5K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 Have not updated this for some time but finally things are starting to move again. I have decided that I just don't have time to build the engine so I have left this to the guys at AFR. I dropped the block and other parts off last week and they are off being tested, bored, cleaned and god knows what else. In the meantime I have been working on the intake side of things. I wanted to have a Greddy intake manifold but found the prices a little rich. I managed to find a comapny called Godspeed who made a replica kit. I bought the kit and this is how it came. Inside the manifold: Gasket surface: With the Q45 attached This is the setup with a bit of work: The large metal gasket was a good fit to the stock intake runners but there was a needed to be remove some material on the intake to make the flow true. [ATTACH=CONFIG]136460[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]136461[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]136462[/ATTACH] This is the fitment of the Q45 to the intake. There is a small lip which needed removing. [ATTACH=CONFIG]136463[/ATTACH] Here it is test assembled. It now just needs to go off for polishing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 I also bought another little bit for the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 Next step is to clear the engine bay right back and have the engine bay sprayed the same colour as the body. There is a fair bit to do though!! I am also going to make a bespoke engine loom for the car. Not going to be cheap but I have had a chat with Chris Wilson who has pointed me in the right direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 nice selection of goodies, i like this build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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