Stonkin Posted July 31, 2010 Author Share Posted July 31, 2010 i could take a video, but thats exactly what it does. Have just checked again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPRALOOPY Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 Pull the ecu fuses and replace them then try it, you may have to go for a drive for the drive/learn cycle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 (edited) Very nice mate although i dislike CF dashboards but each to there own Edited July 31, 2010 by Kirk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 how did you get the alarm light out on the right hand panel, got one the same on mine and dont know if i can cut the wires or not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted July 31, 2010 Author Share Posted July 31, 2010 pulled the ecu fuses. It didnt want to start when i put them back, after 3rd attempt it did and was doing the same symptons. Low idle and bouncing up and down. Checked codes and now it has 22 and 78 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPRALOOPY Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 22 ect engine coolant temp sensor open circuit. 78 fuel pump control. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted July 31, 2010 Author Share Posted July 31, 2010 22 is water temp sensor and 78 is fuelpump control signal. The mechanic that fixed it replaced the fuel filter and re soldered the wires for the coolant temp sensor. Stupid question but i presume that is the water temp sensor? edit, Cheers Dave. What can i check or any advice on these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPRALOOPY Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 My bibles are at the workshop I only have autodata here and that does not have checking procedures with it for the supe. you will need to measure the resistance that coolant sensor has. also check the fuel pump hose it could have kinked or the filter sock could be blocked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 The 22 code could just be a loose connection/poor wiring and *will* cause idle issues if the ECU is getting a duff reading 78 could depend on how you have your fual pump control wired up. Ideally it should be stock, but may have some aftermarket stuff going on as that was common a while ago when Charlie had the car done. Is it possible you could have disturbed anything by the ECU while you were doing the work? I have the manuals here so if you need diagnosis steps for each let me know and I'll try and scan them. PS: Great work on the interior, the died carpet alone makes such a difference to the freshness of the cabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdistc Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 Looks a lot better. For mine, though, there's no point CF wrapping dash panels unless the weave lines up cohesively. Otherwise, everything is nice and clean (as we should expect from you ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobbeh Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 Is that your own car matey? that dash looks like Blackpool illuminations! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heckler Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 Liking the dials.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra steveo Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 I am loving that dash , and seeing that carpet reminds me ..... ive got to do mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted August 1, 2010 Author Share Posted August 1, 2010 (edited) Well last night i unplugged the water temp sensor, gave it a blow and plugged it back and it started fine. Drove it for an hour and it was still fine giving it a run this morning. So not sure if its ok or not but seems fine. Strange that the mechanic resoldered a connection on for that sensor so maybe it wasnt on quite right. What i have noticed over last couple of days is that on low boost (1.0 bar) its only making about 0.89 boost and on high boost (1.4 bar) its making 0.95. Even when the manifold was cracked it was still making the correct boost levels. Its an avcr boost controller, will i need to adjust the duty levels to get it up to what it should be? Its had a new exhaust manifold gasket, so unless he has fitted something smaller? Was a bit wary of just upping the duty as dont really feel i should have to. ps. cheers Homer, its a facelift black carpet though, not dyed Yes Bobbeh, it is my own car Also, after driving the car in the dark last night, the led conversion and new dials, i have to say look absolutely stunning. Its completely modernised the look at night time Edited August 1, 2010 by Stonkin (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted August 1, 2010 Author Share Posted August 1, 2010 Just thought, i havent put the turbo jacket back yet. That wouldnt make any difference to the boost query i mentioned above would it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted August 1, 2010 Author Share Posted August 1, 2010 Just been out to do a few tests. It doesnt seem like the boost controller is doing anything different between hi and low boost. Only thing i didnt do was turn it off completely and see what boost that made. Is there anything the mechanic could have put back wrong to do with the plumbing of the boost controller when he removed the manifold, downpipe, wastegate etc ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 Yes, potentially quite a lot could have been done wrong. I was going to suggest this as the issue yesterday but didn't reply for some reason! Check that the In and Out from the BC solenoid are properly connected. The In should go to the compressor, the out to the wastegate (I think!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted August 1, 2010 Author Share Posted August 1, 2010 I will check this tonight Darryl and take some pics if need be. Will report back, thanks matey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted August 1, 2010 Author Share Posted August 1, 2010 Right, here's the apexi valve The blue silicon pipe goes to the turbo via the T piece. This is labelled NO on the valve, or ON depedning which way up it is The other cable goes down to the wastegate. Both are connected firmly. That seems right to me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted August 1, 2010 Author Share Posted August 1, 2010 I've just found this crack in the downpipe! With the engine just started so i could get my finger close enough to the pipe i could feel it leaking, and that was just at idle. Stupid question time but could this be the cause of it not boosting properly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 ouch nasty crack, would definately cause boosting problems. just get it welded up again mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted August 1, 2010 Author Share Posted August 1, 2010 Am going to tomorrow mate, should have been blimin spotted when the manifold went off! At least it wont need removing to do so eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 looks pretty simple to get a weld on mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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