na-t advice please

[JamieP]

am i right in thinking that having the side mount will make spooling quicker too, im not going to be running high boost... your correct in what your saying

 

Ive not seen any evidence behind that, id just go with a cheap fmic, the xs power fmic will do the job, i know of many high power supras that have run it in the past and some that still do with no problems.

[Rob_Mitchell]

Either way from what he has said i think he is only looking for what the stock injectors can run.

 

yeah correct mate but i want a decent enough turbo, so that once running correctly i can uprate fueling and injectors, then turn things up a tad.

 

would hg be a must do you think? if so shall i uprate head bolts?

[Rob_Mitchell]

Ive not seen any evidence behind that, id just go with a cheap fmic, the xs power fmic will do the job, i know of many high power supras that have run it in the past and some that still do with no problems.

 

cool thats good news then as they also look good too, im looking forward to this now going to start getting some bits.... then no way back lol.

 

ill sort you out a pint (coke) at fairmile mate, you been very helpful im grateful.

[JamieP]

yeah correct mate but i want a decent enough turbo, so that once running correctly i can uprate fueling and injectors, then turn things up a tad.

 

would hg be a must do you think? if so shall i uprate head bolts?

 

I dont think dr_jekyll has and his did well on the dyno, all depends how far you want to go with it i think, the proper way is to remove the engine and pull the sump off to do the oil return, (many do it in place and have not had problems) if the engine is out its no biggie to pull the head. up to you mate.

[Miguel]

Becuase of DET? bhp will limit that, not boost.

 

 

Nearly. Stock NA compression ratios WILL limit the mount of boost you can safely run without exotic fuels, which in turn effects the amount of power it puts out. It's excessive cylinder pressures that kill Boosted N/A applications, not a specific power output.

[JamieP]

Nearly. Stock NA compression ratios WILL limit the mount of boost you can safely run without exotic fuels, which in turn effects the amount of power it puts out. It's excessive cylinder pressures that kill Boosted N/A applications, not a specific power output.

 

He is only talking about running stock 330cc injectors mate, that will limit before anything else.

[Miguel]

Indeed they will.

 

Have you thought about getting an tried and tested kit and cutting out the hassle of cobbling one together?

[Rob_Mitchell]

Indeed they will.

 

Have you thought about getting an tried and tested kit and cutting out the hassle of cobbling one together?

 

putting one together is more fun and can work out better for the bhp target of 400, its not huge power but its good enough for me.

[Rob_Mitchell]

I dont think dr_jekyll has and his did well on the dyno, all depends how far you want to go with it i think, the proper way is to remove the engine and pull the sump off to do the oil return, (many do it in place and have not had problems) if the engine is out its no biggie to pull the head. up to you mate.

 

going to remove the engine when the time comes. gives me chance to paint the engine bay too.

 

tapping the oil return is not a problem, my problem is getting my head around the gauges and electronics but im sure ill be ok and work it out in the end.

[SupraDan24]

Are you going to make a build thread for this Mitch?? It'd be nice to see how it came together and the end results. It might make that 5 hr round trip to bluewater worth while if it means to get to have a go in it

[Rob_Mitchell]

Are you going to make a build thread for this Mitch?? It'd be nice to see how it came together and the end results. It might make that 5 hr round trip to bluewater worth while if it means to get to have a go in it

 

yeah mate im going to do a build thread, that way i can ask for help and get peoples feedback on it.

 

as i said before its going to be a challenge for us as its all new and we have never done anything like this at the garage but im sure it will come together.

 

going to start purchasing some bits and when complete thats when ill start- not setting a finish line though because thats when ill hit snags.

[RobD]

going to remove the engine when the time comes. gives me chance to paint the engine bay too.

 

tapping the oil return is not a problem, my problem is getting my head around the gauges and electronics but im sure ill be ok and work it out in the end.

 

I think I may join you with this mate!

 

I'd love a TT but i would only want the sound of a single so may aswell go for this!

 

Will be keeping tabs on how you go so i know what to expect with this, although i'll be going a different route as the only thing thats kept me from doing this before is the way the pipes for the intercooler etc makes the engine bay look so i'll be opting for a plenum that will make it look more like a TT plenum!

 

 

Also in the same boat as you, fitting the mechanical parts aint the problem its the fekking electrics

[Homer]

Correct manifold and turbo choice seem to be 2 of the 3 key items to getting an NA-T conversion to not just work, but to produce reasonable power and to do it reliably.

 

Is there a specific reason you'd not use a proven manifold from the likes of Boostlogic? It'd make fitment of the rest of the hardware a breeze.

 

That said the XS power GE manifolds do seem to hold up a lot better than their GTE ones, but I'd still never recommend that route due to the poor manufacturing and amount of re-work required. OBX might be another one to consider.

 

Regarding IC choice I agree with Jamie's reply earlier, a cheap XS power one will do just fine. The only thing you'll need to do is to add a bead to the IC pipes to stop them popping off all the time. Much more effective that fitting a worn out side mount, not to mention easier on an NA-T

[Miguel]

Do BL still do the N/A kit Daryl?

[Homer]

Do BL still do the N/A kit Daryl?

 

I believe so, their website still lists them as available. Unless you know something I don't

[Miguel]

Good to know

[Rob_Mitchell]

yeah Daryl i dont fancy going custom and having a manifold made, if there is a recommended manifold im all ears but have heard the storys about bad welds etc on the xs system.

 

really considering this turbo http://www.xs-power.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=315 its spooling is meant to be real fast but being a T3 am i right in saying i need to get a T4 weld on piece for the T4 manifold or are there T3 manifolds for the 2jzge?

[Miguel]

Ahem.

 

 

i dont intend on doing things cheap or cutting corners in anyway

 

That xs power GT35 is junk, real ones are not that much money.

 

[Homer]

If you're open to suggestions for the manifold then have a look at Whifbitz, Boostlogic, PHR and OBX. I'm sure there are other viable options, but those are the first that come to mind.

 

I wouldn't bother with XS power turbo's at all, the naming convensions they use are not directly comparible to the main brands (e.g. Their GT35r is a very different spec to the genuine Garrett or Precision derivatives of the the GT35r). Plus they are rubbish anyway

 

I'm not too clued up on what turbos are available these days and what is now most suitable for your power goals, so will leave that to others to suggest. One thing for sure - go for the spec that fits your manifold choice. If you have a T4 manifold and choose a T3 turbo (or vise-versa), it'll need a riser plate which will push the turbo higher and closer to the intake - that's the achilles heel of the NA-T, so it's essential to match them from the outset

[Rob_Mitchell]

lol really, when did you say it was junk i missed that, the search continues then i thought £400 was cheap but i thought that garrett one was ok, or is that a garrett copy?

[Rob_Mitchell]

If you're open to suggestions for the manifold then have a look at Whifbitz, Boostlogic, PHR and OBX. I'm sure there are other viable options, but those are the first that come to mind.

 

I wouldn't bother with XS power turbo's at all, the naming convensions they use are not directly comparible to the main brands (e.g. Their GT35r is a very different spec to the genuine Garrett or Precision derivatives of the the GT35r). Plus they are rubbish anyway

 

I'm not too clued up on what turbos are available these days and what is now most suitable for your power goals, so will leave that to others to suggest. One thing for sure - go for the spec that fits your manifold choice. If you have a T4 manifold and choose a T3 turbo (or vise-versa), it'll need a riser plate which will push the turbo higher and closer to the intake - that's the achilles heel of the NA-T, so it's essential to match them from the outset

 

yeah going to have a chat with paul next week see what he can come up with, i do hear the obx systems are good.

 

didnt realise the gt35r was a copy, still i think the garrett gt35r is my choice but genuine one i think £900 will sort the turbo out.

[Miguel]

I din't say it, Jamie did, two posts in. Yeah, they are not original units, it says it on their site too mate.

[Rob_Mitchell]

One thing for sure - go for the spec that fits your manifold choice. If you have a T4 manifold and choose a T3 turbo (or vise-versa), it'll need a riser plate which will push the turbo higher and closer to the intake - that's the achilles heel of the NA-T, so it's essential to match them from the outset

 

thanks mate thought so, cheers for clearing it up. thats a good piece of info.

[Rob_Mitchell]

I din't say it, Jamie did, two posts in. Yeah, they are not original units, it says it on their site too mate.

 

your here to give me a hard time with this aint you

 

thanks though mate i missed it completely.

[Nic]

If I was putting an NA-T kit together I'd go for a PHR NA-T manifold, downpipe and Turbo-IC pipe with a Garrett GT35R turbo.

 

i dont intend on doing things cheap or cutting corners in anyway[/QUOTe]

 

That being the case, I would fit 550cc/680cc injectors, fuel pump, GReddy/HKS FMIC, oil cooler and rather than the Emanage Ultimate I would fit a standalone ECU.