bigbloodyturbo Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 i'd take it to a garage and explain the problem and let them do it. Experienced mech's have allsorts of tricks to release things like this and if needs be they can weld a socket or spanner to it and get it that way. They will also have more confidence than you when heating it up with a torch as they've probably done it a hundred times before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted October 10, 2008 Author Share Posted October 10, 2008 If it were mine I'd have the best fitting ring spanner on it i could find with the trolley jack under the other end to apply tension then making sure the ring is still sitting square batter feck out it with a suitably heavy hammer and increase the tension. Had to do this with a driveshaft nut on her clio as I was bending a large breaker bar myself. Another trick is to try and hit the bolt straight on a couple of times which can be enough to free the threads slightly but not too hard since its in the alloy casing. Probably wont get access though if i remember right from mine. I suppose if the nut has started to round then its gonna be more and more difficult to get off. Welding a large nut onto it may be the answer. Good luck with it theres nothing more frustrating well apart from a nagging g/f. I've tried the jacking method and wrecked two spanners with it so far Will try the lump hammer method tomorrow. You're right, the nut has just started to round so I don't want to push things too hard, but great idea with the weld, thats not been sugested so far and not something I'd thought of i'd take it to a garage and explain the problem and let them do it. Experienced mech's have allsorts of tricks to release things like this and if needs be they can weld a socket or spanner to it and get it that way. They will also have more confidence than you when heating it up with a torch as they've probably done it a hundred times before. The problem is the car is not MOT'd/taxed/insured so cannot be driven on the road, I could get it taken to a garage but expect the total cost would be near to the cost of the car once it's back on my drive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbloodyturbo Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 might be an idea to do as previously mentioned then and drill it out. I know how you feel as my oil drain plug on my prelude was overtightened by the previous owner and when i rounded it my heart sunk, i eventually went all or nothing and hammered the next size down socket onto the rounded bolt and then took a breaker bar to it big time and just as it was about to round again, it cracked and i could literally remove it with my fingers after it cracked that 1/8th turn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted October 10, 2008 Author Share Posted October 10, 2008 might be an idea to do as previously mentioned then and drill it out. I know how you feel as my oil drain plug on my prelude was overtightened by the previous owner and when i rounded it my heart sunk, i eventually went all or nothing and hammered the next size down socket onto the rounded bolt and then took a breaker bar to it big time and just as it was about to round again, it cracked and i could literally remove it with my fingers after it cracked that 1/8th turn one of the problems is that due to the location of the filler plug there is no room to get a socket on it (hammered on or not). The only way is to remove the gearbox, or lift the engine up at the front (PITA to disconnect everything again). Thanks for the suggestions though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkystav Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 Have you tried the metrinch (sp) spanners/sockets Their good kit, and grip the flats of the bolt rather than the corners like normal sockets so shouldnt round the bolt off. Stav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 Don't heat the gearbox casing, heat the bolt itself and leave the casing as it is. This will cause the bolt to expand and when it contracts it will, hopefully, loosen up the threads and break any corrosion. Get a serious amount of heat on it, obviously not a cutting torch though, and let it cool a bit before trying. Don't go near it with a star ring spanner, use a proper open ended spanner or a ring spanner that has proper flats. A decent hardened chrome vanadium spanner should do the trick (king dick is the one u want ). Instead of using leverage try to shock it with the metal side of a heavy mallet. Just push against it with your hand to keep the tension going one way and let loose with the side of the mallet, shock will work well before leverage will. Ideally if you could get it to a garage an impact wrench would take it off in seconds, it has shock and leverage lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorin Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 Have you tried swearing at it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 Bring it to me, give me money (sorry, no, give me gold ) and I'll get it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted October 11, 2008 Author Share Posted October 11, 2008 Yippee, got it undone today! Don't heat the gearbox casing, heat the bolt itself and leave the casing as it is. This will cause the bolt to expand and when it contracts it will, hopefully, loosen up the threads and break any corrosion. Get a serious amount of heat on it, obviously not a cutting torch though, and let it cool a bit before trying. Don't go near it with a star ring spanner, use a proper open ended spanner or a ring spanner that has proper flats. A decent hardened chrome vanadium spanner should do the trick (king dick is the one u want ). Instead of using leverage try to shock it with the metal side of a heavy mallet. Just push against it with your hand to keep the tension going one way and let loose with the side of the mallet, shock will work well before leverage will. Ideally if you could get it to a garage an impact wrench would take it off in seconds, it has shock and leverage lol. Nice one mate, this was exactly what finally solved it. Heated the bolt as much as my butane torch would allow, let it cool then used a stong spanner with a breaker bar and shocked it off. Thanks to everyone else who's helped out with the suggestions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 And now angle grind the bolt into small bits as revenge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike M Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 Time for a well deserved beer:d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted October 11, 2008 Author Share Posted October 11, 2008 And now angle grind the bolt into small bits as revenge Lol, I can just imagine hacking it to bits in a frenzy while laughing manically Time for a well deserved beer:d Already on it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted October 12, 2008 Share Posted October 12, 2008 Yippee, got it undone today! Nice one mate, this was exactly what finally solved it. Heated the bolt as much as my butane torch would allow, let it cool then used a stong spanner with a breaker bar and shocked it off. Thanks to everyone else who's helped out with the suggestions Glad to help, you must have the patience of a saint. I would have been going insane by this point lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markie Posted August 7, 2010 Share Posted August 7, 2010 (edited) Wakey wakey thread Guys, the f'ing filler bolt has rounded off on me. I though it was going to be an easy job, as I have had this bolt out about a year ago. Anyways, any idea on getting this sucker out. Such a stupid f'ing place to put it fair do's! Idea currently is to weld a bar to it.. Any imput please? Its a damn tight spot! Any thoughts on that J B Weld stuff? Edited August 7, 2010 by Markie (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markie Posted August 7, 2010 Share Posted August 7, 2010 Been on the phone to my da.. He has been working with all kinds of machinery all his life and reakons a hammer and chisel may well do the job... It has worked for him on many occasions, but then this is with big machines and big bolts Any else think the shock using this technique may work, will proably give it a bash tomorrow anyway, but then the work space I have under the car is, shall we say, limited! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted August 7, 2010 Author Share Posted August 7, 2010 Feel for you Markie! Hammer and chisel method may well work, however after my experience it would be well worth doing the tip that Scott mentions above before hand to help free up the threads a bit first. It made a world of difference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markie Posted August 7, 2010 Share Posted August 7, 2010 Cheers Homer, will try this all tomorrow.. Which Forest Gump thought it would be a good idea to put the plug in such a pain in the bum location! Anyways, we will see how it goes.. If that all fails, I will try the other suggestion on here... Swear at it.. Oh no wait, I have already called many names already.. Piece of Japanese shite being the more preferred line at the moment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 Chisel is the very very last option. In fact I think you would be very lucky for it to work. Heat and shock is your best friend in this case. You have more chance of knocking the head off the bolt than you do chiseling it loose. My last resort would be mole grips on mole grips and a ruddy great shock hammer. I can't see it taking anymore than a LOT of heat and a good tug though Remember to let it cool, this is often where people go wrong. The heat causes expansion..... breaking the rust. Allow it to contract so that it seperates... ever so slightly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 Can you not get on the bolt head with a stilsons wrench ? As Scott says though heat up and cool the bolt first will definetly help free it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markie Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 Managed it now guys, thanks... Tried some more WD40, got myself a new chisel and started the pain staking work of trying to loosen it up. Thought I was failing but it must of been working as I tried the mole grips again after about 20 minutes of hammer and chisel and she moved! The bitch is out now. Just need a new one Hammer and chisel must of worked a bit as the mole grips were just slipping yesterday. Maybe the chiesel roughed up the bolt head enough for the mole grips to get a good bite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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