Ian C Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 and i beleive they are considerably cheaper than a tubular so good point, another consideration is does a modest turbo warrant a tubular manifold - probably not I'd agree with you there, don't get my stance wrong. I'm so far from the "must be branded and shiny" brigade my watch is two hours ahead, but I also draw the line at "just plain shonky" I got a tubular manifold as that was really the only option available and it came in a kit so everything fitted first go. It hasn't cracked yet after 3 years or so, the BL ones are pretty good it seems. I'd certainly not turn my nose up at a good cast manifold though. Like I said, that manifold linked to earlier looks great except it seems to point the wrong way.... -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 Don't wreck a probably nice car, just save and get two new ceramic turbos from Nic, and a gasket set, and do it right. Had what I considered to be one of the nicest MKIV TT VVTi's in the country in yesterday, that had had a budget single on it, I nearly cried. All it needed was a pair of ceramics and it would still have been one the nicest... All the things I warned the new owner would happen to it, and be wrong with it were present and correct You COULD do a proper single conversion, but if you blanche at two new stock Toyota turbos, cost wise, you shouldn't even be THINKING of going single! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 You COULD do a proper single conversion, but if you blanche at two new stock Toyota turbos, cost wise, you shouldn't even be THINKING of going single! Very true Chris. The cost of replacing faulty stock turbo's is a fraction of the cost of a single conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 Like I said, that manifold linked to earlier looks great except it seems to point the wrong way.... -Ian Try bolting the turbo the right way up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 Try bolting the turbo the right way up. Not only the wrong way, but the wastegate has the dump tube pointing into the block. Surely at some point they though "Hey, this doesn't look right"? Reminds me of those cheap FMIC adds on ebay which show the intake pipe pointing about 3 foot above the bonet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 I agree with the some of the previous comments, unless you are prepared to spend big money doing a full conversion with quality parts and all supporting mods needed (fueling, ECU, cooling, clutch, etc, etc.), then stick with the stock turbos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supraguye Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 I appreciate all the great feedback guys. Here was my angle though: The cost of buying a pair of new twins is not a problem. In all honesty, my long term goal was to have a small-mid single supra. So, now that my turbos are on their way out, I am thinking, why sponge on a set of new twins when I can use that money plus some towards starting my single project considering I already have some of the supporting mods : EMU, TRD clutch, FMIC, Walbro But what I am getting from your guys is either u go big ... or u don't go; in other words, there can be no phased approache. Guess now, I have to look at the bank book ... talk to the girly ... and see what can be done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 The size of the turbo is pretty irrelevant to the costs unless you go really mad and want over 500 BHP. A set of forged pistons and a pair of cams in a rebuilt engine should handle a small turbo, it's when you want serious power and you need crank and rods that the price rockets. IMO a decent small turbo on a refreshed engine, done and mapped is about 10 to 12K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 If you want to do a single a stages you can but you need to be careful which parts you do first, the single turbo should be last. I would do it in these steps from a new car, this is a very rough list off the top of my head :- 01. Exhaust 02. Fuel Pump 03. Decent IC 04. Good brakes, either UK/US or aftermarket That is roughly BPU level which is a good base to start going further, I would then do the following in this order. Although not 100% required I would install EGT and AFR gauges at this point. 05. Clutch and flywheel 06. fuel controller, either piggyback or replacement with mapping 07. fuel system, either drop in injectors or full system (remapped to suit) 08. install single (remapped to suit) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Anyone ever tried a GT3076? very popular with the evos for 500bhp and would be super fast to spool on a big 3.0L. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Anyone ever tried a GT3076? very popular with the evos for 500bhp and would be super fast to spool on a big 3.0L. Would need a T4 to T3 flange adapter. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT30/GT3076R_700382_12.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supraguye Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 If you want to do a single a stages you can but you need to be careful which parts you do first, the single turbo should be last. I would do it in these steps from a new car, this is a very rough list off the top of my head :- 01. Exhaust -Done 02. Fuel Pump -Done 03. Decent IC -Done 04. Good brakes, either UK/US or aftermarket -Done That is roughly BPU level which is a good base to start going further, I would then do the following in this order. Although not 100% required I would install EGT and AFR gauges at this point. 05. Clutch and flywheel -Done 06. fuel controller, either piggyback or replacement with mapping -EMU bought .... but doesn't it make sence to map once with bigger injectors and single? 07. fuel system, either drop in injectors or full system (remapped to suit)- Agree ... So maybe I should look to buying the injectors then; as besides the cheap manifold, its the only aspect which I was contemplating cutting back on 08. install single (remapped to suit) My thoughts in red above Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supraguye Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 The size of the turbo is pretty irrelevant to the costs unless you go really mad and want over 500 BHP. A set of forged pistons and a pair of cams in a rebuilt engine should handle a small turbo, it's when you want serious power and you need crank and rods that the price rockets. IMO a decent small turbo on a refreshed engine, done and mapped is about 10 to 12K. Sorry Chris, by Go big here, I meant go all the way (with all the necessary bits) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supraguye Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 Anyone ever tried a GT3076? very popular with the evos for 500bhp and would be super fast to spool on a big 3.0L. Been doing some reading Jamie; and some on here tend to think that it'll run out of breathe uptop; have a look at the link below: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=119221&highlight=GT30&page=2 Although, interestingly the supra in the famous video of the amuse supra and mines skyline uses a GT30: And if I may add, it seems to move pretty well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 EMU bought .... but doesn't it make sence to map once with bigger injectors and single? If you install an EMU I guess you can have it run zero correction which on standard setup would be fine, if however you have a full standalone this would require mapping as soon as its installed. As you are EMU then you may not need a remap here, I dont know enough about the EMU to really answer this. 07. fuel system, either drop in injectors or full system (remapped to suit)- Agree ... So maybe I should look to buying the injectors then 650cc drop in with stock FPR are ok if you want approx 550hp, I have pretty much reached the max on mine at 560hp, if I wanted to go any higher I would look at replacing them with some drop in 800cc. Do not install a cheap manifold, go for a known unit like BL, HKS/PHR or a cast unit from Arnout Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveR Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 ... 05. Clutch and flywheel ... What do you need to do to the flywheel?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 In my case I had an OS Giken which is a clutch/flywheel combo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveR Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 In my case I had an OS Giken which is a clutch/flywheel combo Sorry Wez, but I'm none the wiser - what needs modifying/changing WRT to flywheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Nothing really unless you want a lighter unit, I put it there as that is the point I would change it if you intend to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Sorry Chris, by Go big here, I meant go all the way (with all the necessary bits) I see, I'm an old man, don't know the modern speak Sorry! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveR Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Nothing really unless you want a lighter unit, I put it there as that is the point I would change it if you intend to. ah righto. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminator Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 Just to add to the ebay manifold debate, we had an ebay manifold for the RB25 engine. We actually used it and it was horrible. It was difficult to fit,badly made, with poor welds. We had to add welding twice during the weeks a it was on the car. We eventually had to redesign it to to be able to get at other bits of the hot side setup. It was quite simply the biggest mistake we ever made. From my experience, use them as a musical instrument, lamp holder, plant pot, but never never use them on a car. Put off your build and save for the real thing. The R&D can't be beaten. We have Greddy and HKS manifolds here and very pleased with the quilt, design, fit and performance. There are other good quality items out there, BL,VWR, Titan etc. They are designed and built with performance in mind not just a quick buck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 Very good advice there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveR Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 How's your single installation going Si - is it on yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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