TrickTT

A very good set of 1/2 inch drive deep sockets and an extra pair of hands come in useful as well.

You could always remove the propshaft if you've got to tow it any distance, its not that hard to unbolt it and sling it in the boot

Once you've got the bottom one off( as above), look up into the hole and you will see 2 gold coloured screws. undo them, then open the top glovebox and prise off the plastic caps at the back and undo the two more gold screws. Then you have to pull up the top glovebox from the front so the hinge will clear the dash.

Sorry i missed this guys, but my car is still not quite back together yet. Hope you all had a good time and the weather didn't spoil it too much.

I agree with Nic on this. Vented wings look good as long as they are not those godawful TRD ones

The GZ was available as liftback or aerotop. In terms of spec the uk is closer to the GZ which was the highest spec import. The UK has a few more buttons though - mainly heated seats and headlight washers

He needs to get the spanners out and fit that front bumper properly as well

There is a clamp which holds a pipe on mine. Think its the idle air control valve pipe.

solid wire is best to stick in the terminals of the diagnostic port. I use a paperclip.

They look like the two I used to have a few years ago, mine were called Jake and Elwood

I know its not your car so you probably dont care, but heres a little bit of info on the audi multitronic box: Drive is by means of a multi link metal chain, not the more usual rubber belt found in most CVT gearboxes, and it has no torque converter. Instead there are 2 wet multiplate clutches, one for forward and one reverse, which are hydraulically activated. Audi intended these to last the life of the car, but depending on how you drive, they can wear out in as little as 30 - 50k miles. It is possible to strip the gearbox and change these, just like a normal clutch, but here's where it gets interesting; As the clutch plates wear the electronics compensate for the thinner clutch plate, but when they are replaced you cannot reset the electronics to allow for the new, thicker, plates. The only way to get the box working again is to fit a new gearbox ECU, costing about £2000 on top of the cost of stripping the gearbox. Audi charge around £4500 for the complete job, or around £3000 from an independant specialist. However, if you drive a US spec Audi, due to the American freedom of information act the software for the gearbox ECU has to be made available, therefore Audi made 2 versions of the software, one for the US market and one for the rest of the world and they are not interchangable. Bet you're glad its not your car now!

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The 2 hard lines that come from the autobox and run forward to the oil cooler, one stops just below the alternator pulley and the other one runs across the front of the engine and stops under the air-con pulley. Can anyone tell me which is the feed and which is the return pipe? Thanks

no EEEEEEEEEE's

It's been working fine for 6 months, but today it just comes up with an error. I've tried reinstalling it from the CD, but it does exactly the same. I'm not aware of anything changing on the computer. Anyone got any ideas:sos:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Supra-Soarer-Celica-MR2-Oil-Cap-NOT-SCREW-TYPE_W0QQitemZ200018390162QQihZ010QQcategoryZ43120QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem This will fit a supe. If its like mine, you have to disassemble your old oil cap and fit the rubber seal and spring to this one

Good lordy, Get rid of all the brake dust and put some copperslip on there.

Supra fitment ones occasionally come up on ebay, I paid about £20 for mine, but i cant remember the sellers name.

01.Lui 02.supra matt 03.letmeshowyou 04.jamiep 05.qaisar 06.absxxxx 07.bromy 08. LeeT (camping) 09. Burna (Travelodge) 10. Terribleturner 11. MR.B 12. Bobbeh 13. gzaerojon (camping for me, travelodge is for wimps ) 14. Trick152 15. 16. 17. 18.

Possibly http://www.moviesoundscentral.com/sounds/deliverance/drop.wav but you absoultly MUST USE THIS ONE http://www.moviewavs.com/php/sounds/?id=gog&media=WAVS&type=Movies&movie=Full_Metal_Jacket&quote=numnuts.txt&file=numnuts.wav I want it on my car now now now

CLICK noises on trying to start usually mean your starter m otor solenoid is on the way out. Do a search, there's loads of threads on here about it. Its an easy fix, costs about £20 for the parts.

Definatly coming this time.

Does this mean i've got to get the spanners out again

I'll have a set available in about 2 - 3 weeks, painted gold with black supra logo and OEM toyota pads, about 1/3 worn . I'll let you know when they're off the car if you're still interested.