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My BL angles upwards, and apart from a bit of steam after I wash it, no problems. Make sure its fully stainless though.

Weather update from the 10 day forecast on uk.weather.com for Wellingborough looks ok so far

Chris, could you ask your guy about the latest generation of DAF turbos. I don't know if they are the same as the 4088, which we use on our euro IV 2006 DAF 430CFs, but our 2008 DAF 460CFs are euro V spec engines that run with ad-blu. They run leaner than the euro IV engines and at much higher boost, ie 1.8bar flat out for hours at a time. I am guessing that they are different/uprated turbos, but i don't know if they would now be suitable for petrol engine use.

I think that would be me I flashed my hazard lights at you. Never caught up with the others, unless they went into the services.

Saturday wasn't too bad, very windy like every pod event this year, but today was a complete washout. I got soaked putting my tent down, and then more soaked all morning. Not many people there, and I spoke to a few of the traders and they all thought the day was a waste of time. The grass was a mudbath and the tarmac was under 2 inches of water Got fed up and left at about 11:30. Shame really as I usually enjoy Japshow, but a crappy end to a rubbish summer unfortunatly:cry:

It works the 2 electric fans, one in front of the aircon rad and the small one next to the viscous fan.

They were an option on all supras. You can buy similar stick on LED strips from Halfords or ebay. Wire them to the interior light circuit so they come on when the door is open.

Would this be gearbox oil from a bus by any chance:innocent: Wouldn't recommend it if i was you mate.

Some pics of my install [thread=143632]HERE[/thread]

Depends where you are fitting the pump, but you could get a smaller bottle and put in place of the charcoal cannister.

In the boot, on the back of my sub enclosure, but in the spare wheel well would work just as well.

There is a place near West Brom that does chroming, but I cant remember the name. I'll see if I can find the details, or PM colsoop as he used to use them. I presume you got those double sixes that were up for sale recently - if you find anywhere, post up some pics when they're done as the chrome on mine is starting to go and i cant decide weather to get them rechromed or just powdercoat them.

Installation guide is now here: [thread=163088]INSTALL GUIDE[/thread] and a quick look at how the brackets are produced is here: [thread=162872]HOW ITS MADE[/thread]

On the back of the doorcard, you will see the stock grill is held on with spring clips on the plastic lugs of the grill. Using wire cutters, just trim the lugs so they are almost flush with the spring clips. Reconnect the wiring for the electric window switch, then hook the top of the doorcard over the door frame and swing into place. Make sure your wiring is tucked into the recess under the window switches. You might need to jigggle the door card a bit until it drops into place. Reinstall all the screws in the same place you removed them from. To refit the pop fastners on the back edge of the door, pull the centre bit out as shown in the photo, then insert them ito the holes until the outer part sits tight against the door, then push the middle bit in until its flush. The pop fastner on the front of the door used to mount into the stock speaker enclosure. As thats no longer there, I use a bit of hot glue to hold it in place. Repeat the process on the other door, then download this LINKY onto your ipod, sit back and enjoy your handiwork. Thanks to Burna for the use of his car.

Using the mounting template that is supplied with your speakers, mark and drill 4 pilot holes of an appropriate size in the speaker bracket. Mounting screws are probably supplied with your speakers, but do not use ones that are longer than 15mm or they will stick out through the back of the bracket. Try to avoid drilling in the circled area as the wood is at its thinnest here. Screw the speaker in place. Mount your speaker so the connectors are somewhere near the bottom when the speaker is mounted. Reconnect the loom from the speaker enclosure to your new speaker. Most speakers use standard sizes of spade connector and it will only fit one way. Plug the other end back into the main door wiring loom. There is 2 different ways to attach the bracket. The best way is to use longer versions of the standard screws. These are sheetmetal screws (sometimes known as ACME screws) In this picture, the standard screw is on the left and the new one is on the right. Line up the mounting holes and screw the bracket into place, but take care not to overtighten. Then tape the plug and any excess wire to the rest of the loom. Alternativly (and i do not recommend this method as you have to remove the moisture barrier) you can remove the white plastic plugs that are in the door by squeezing the back of them with pliers and pulling forward. Remember you are waving tools around very close to the lowered window glass - don't blame me if you break it. You can then use a M6 x 20mm bolt with a large washer on the back. and a smaller washer and nyloc nut to hold the bracket in place.

Unplug the speaker loom (green arrow) and carefully cut the cable tie holding the wiring loom to the front of the speaker enclosure taking care not to cut into the loom. Now undo the 4 x 10mm bolts (arrowed) and remove the speaker encolsure from the door. Remove the 3 screws that hold the stock speaker into the enclosure. And pry the speaker away. It is glued in place so some care is needed. Unplug the 2 wires from the back of the speaker VERY CAREFULLY pry the connector away from the speaker enclosure. Do not break it. It is also glued. and pull the wires out of the speaker enclosure.

How to install the speaker brackets from my recent group buy. You will need: Small flat screwdriver No. 2 crosshead screwdriver 10mm socket Cutters Drill Electrical tape. First thing to do is wind down the window as it makes removing the doorcard much easier. Remove the small screw in the door handle recess. And pull the door handle trim piece forward and toward you to remove it. Inside the door handle, remove the screw (arrowed). Using your flat screwdriver, pry off the small plastic cover inside the door pull, then remove the screw. Now you can remove the rest of the door fittings. There are 2 screws behind plastic covers at the front of the door, and 4 screws along the lower edge (red arrows) and 4 pop fittings, 3 at the back, and one central on the front of the door (green arrows). Gently push in the centre of the fitting about 5mm, then pull the whole fitting out. They should come out easily - if not, gently prise them out with your small screwdriver. Pull the lower edge of the doorcard away from the door about 6 inches, then lift from the back until the door card unhooks from the top of the doorframe. Fold the doorcard away from the door until you can unplug the wire from the electric window switch.

Its the O-ring seal between the 2 halfs of the caliper. I dont think Toyota sell them by themselves, you will need to find out exactly what size it is and get one from a o-ring supplier. You might be lucky and find its an off the shelf size.

I keep hearing "don't you f***ing dare" over and over in my head. Sounds just like the wife Out of interest though, how much ground clearance does it need to get the arms under a car?

Simple answer is that Sheefa couldn't do that. I know Sheefa well and he was looking into getting the mdf brackets made - for £25 posted, but having problems with his supplier. After my original brackets - made to your design - fell apart, I made the first set of my designed brackets for my car. I showed them to Sheefa while I was doing another job on his supe, and he asked me if I could produce them for the original group buy that he was organising. He then checked with the approx 50 people who signed up if that was ok and I went ahead. Due to popular demand, i've since done 3 further group buys and i've now sold over 100 sets of these with no complaints up till now. I've never put a gun to anyones head to buy these. TBH i'm suprised there is still a demand, but 20 people signed up in 48 hrs so please don't question my workmanship. Imi is not obliged to buy anything. I'm in touch with him via pm which is non of your business. This is what happens if you use your MDF brackets and powerful (150w metal cone) speakers: As for a bit of plywood - how its made to follow when i've uploaded the pictures.

Gunk make a petrol resistant clear lacquer aerosol which is heat resistant to about 200 deg. I used it on my polished power steering resevoir which is steel. Doesn't affect the look of the polished finish and should work equally well on polished calipers.

Any news on these yet? Pm me when you want payment.

1. Mawby PAID POSTED 2. Supradaz PAID POSTED 3. Pixelfill PAID POSTED RECEIVED 4. markymark PAID POSTED 5. Zofix (satin black) PAID POSTED 6. Why T (Satin Black) PAID POSTED 7. Chinstrapped (satin black please) POSTED 8. Wile e Coyote PAID POSTED 9. Monkey3 PAID POSTED 10. Darragh PAID POSTED 11. Bender (Satin Black) PAID POSTED 12. SunnyG83 (Satin Black) PAID POSTED 13. Little num COLLECTED 14. Burna COLLECTING 15. Wez PAID POSTED 16. imi PAID POSTED RECEIVED 17. Aldo87 (Satin Black) PAID POSTED 18. mwilkinson (Satin Black) PAID POSTED 19. marbleapple PAID POSTED 20. Clodola(Satin Black) PAID POSTED 21. Lendusz (Satin Black) PAID POSTED All the brackets have now been sent out. Apologies to anyone who is still waiting for the plain ones, Royal Mail seems to be on a go-slow:(. They have all been sent out recorded delivery, so give it up to a week, then contact me and i'll chase them. I'll try to address some of the issues: 1. These brackets are for 6.5inch round speakers only. I'm not aware of any 6.5inch round speakers that will not fit. 2. Thanks to Burna, who has kindly allowed me to do all the work on his car , in order to produce a install guide. I should be doing this on Friday and i'll get the guide posted on here as soon as I can and i'll cover everything I can think of, with photos. 3. You will need longer bolts - there are 2 options and i'll cover both in the fitting guide. 4. Dynomatting - its up to you, and depends how much of an audio-geek you are;). Its not essential, but wont do any harm. I've padded out the space behind mine using the accouctic wool that is inside the stock speaker enclosures. It is important that the plastic liner is not damaged though as that could allow water inside the cabin. 5. I've borrowed the photo below from Kev.O. Thats exactly how they are supposed to be fitted. If you look at the grill, you can see that the vented bits are not central in the grill (circled in red), and that the centre of the speaker (arrowed) is central in the vent, not the whole grill. Due to the shape of the door, it is not possible to put a large speaker central to the whole grill, behind the door card, as the magnet and speaker frame will hit the door frame at the top. How much space you have depends on the size of the magnet on the speakers you are using. I designed the bracket to allow for fitting behind the door card with the stock grill. If you want to mount the speaker in front of the door card you will need a speaker ring (at least 3/4inch thick) which will allow you to move the speaker up, and away from the door so the magnet will clear the door frame. You can use my bracket to attach the ring to if you wish to fit them this way. Hope this is of some help for now.

There isn't one. I *think* Ian means put the cam so the knock pin lines up, then fit all 7 bearing caps and pull them all down a little bit (no more than 1/2 turn i would say) at a time. Would work, but when the caps are all touching the head, i would use the toyota sequence for torqueing them up.

They are a direct replacement, and you will notice that the door card does not attach to the "big plastic thingy" either. You fit the speakers and brackets behind the door card, then put the doorcard back, without screwing it to the speaker bracket. As I said, i will be doing a step by step install guide next friday/saturday, but if its any help, heres a photo of mine installed from 2 years ago. Put the door card back over the top.