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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Nodalmighty

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Everything posted by Nodalmighty

  1. Ah! my old mate Nathan. Small world.
  2. I see this car every time I go to the Samual Jonhson from work. So it does actually move then
  3. You pop up the white bit and then use a needle to lift the tag while you genitally pull the wire. It is a bit of an art to it
  4. It's not easy being a wiring Jedi, you tend to miss the obvious as it's not copper wrapped in plastic.
  5. Now if you had said that at the start I would have said "Has it got any fuel in it"
  6. Well you solved the first one. So you have a 1jz-gte that came with a 2jz ecu style ecu connector? What did that come out of ? Do you have 3 x 4 wire lambda sensors and a MAF? Are the injectors not wired as 3 pairs grouped?
  7. I do a lot of work for him (looms, ecu installations , mapping when he's in a hole). He's a very clever man and a really good Friend. He's building My V8 Supra. He's a Link dealer now too which is handy.
  8. That will be because the 2jz-gte import ran 440cc high impedance injectors. Unless you have a UK spec ecu in which case you have a whole fist full of issues to sort before that will run right.
  9. I think some of the bigger walbro pumps (400 series) don't like running at the lower voltages the stock FPE can provide and can cause running issues. The 12v mod (or nbv+ mod as it should be called) is a way around this issue. 255 should be fine.
  10. I see, so you are using the FPE as a relay to run a relay. That relies on the Relay switching voltage to be 9v or lower which might explain why some people have a clicking issue as this can't be guaranteed.
  11. If they are using the purple wire to drive the relay 86/85 side, yes, most probably. The diagrams I've seen where a relay is used are just using the blue/orange wire as the relay 86 12v trigger and a new battery feed to 30 and 87 to the pump via Blue/Red. with the white/black as ground (85). The thing I never liked was the pump is running as soon at you key on.
  12. The TSM says it's between 2.5v and 6v so as the ecu is unlikely to have a DAC I would think it is via PWM.
  13. My understanding of the 12v mod is bypassing the ECU and connecting the Blue/Orange and Blue/Red wires directly. The Relay is just using the Red/Orange to drive the relay 86 terminal and making a new power line to 30 and a from 87 to the pump. The small ground wire to the ecu being the ground to 85. Green is DI (Diagnostic Interface) back to the Engine ECU Purple is FPR (Fuel Pump Relay - legacy name of old I guess for continuity) and is the voltage control line from the Engine ECU.
  14. I've always thought the 12v mod relay or not, is a bad idea. The purple and green wires are not switched outputs.
  15. Looking at my steering wheel it has cut outs for cruise on both sides. I'm just wondering if left hand drive cars have the stalk on the other side?
  16. Just for you : 90126-a0008 It's specially designed to nest up against the base of the blind hole for maximum transfer. NEVER use a washer with a Bosch Knock sensor.
  17. The factory Knock sensor is 12mm. Toyota themselves do a 12mm to 8mm step stud for the 2zz-GE engine. Bosch wide band knock sensor is 8mm bore.
  18. I some times remove dash panels and immediate tell the customer they are lucky not to have been killed in a fire ball. It's like in Red Dwarf "Legion" episode when he gives Rimmer his hard light drive, pulling miles of random Spaghetti out and replacing it all with a small rationalised loom all nicely shrink wrapped and tidy. I've lost count of the amount of dash clusters I've resoldered / repaired to get the oil and engine lights working again (I wonder how long they had been dead?).
  19. I map my own turbo cars so that min and max boost are interplicants of the throttle angle anyway. I have a hyperspace button somewhere handy just in case (the auto has a mega kick down button under the throttle for this application).
  20. There may be no choice unless £££ are prepared to be spent on diffs as well. Giken do a unit for the small case do they not?
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