garethr

Adjustable cam gears allow you to move the position of the cam in relation to the toothed wheel which is driven by the timing belt. To facilitate this the cam gear is made in two parts bolted together through a slotted hole. Sometimes there is a vernier system with a set of holes in each part of the cam gear. There are different numbers of holes in each part enabling fine adjustment by matching different pairs of holes. It's often referred to as "dialling in" the cams, perhaps because it usually involves using a dial gauge to measure the valve lift at a particular crankshaft position. You might want dial in the cams in order to time the cam to exactly the specs given by the manufacturer, or to change the engine's power characteristics by adjusting the opening/closing points or overlap. Google it, there's plenty of info out there. EDIT I type too slowly

Surely not! Any such suggestion would be a vile and contemptible slur on the good name of a fine group of men who are concerned only with ensuring maximum benefit to the consumer. (Do we have a "tongue firmly in cheek" smiley? )

I can see a point in a comprehensive check rather than just an MOT, inconvenient though it is. Given the low numbers involved, I can't really see the point of the "model report" system, which was introduced because the EU introduced higher safety standards (which are higher than Japanese requirements) in 1997. I can see no point at all for failing cars because they have modifications that are not illegal for road use. (That last sentence isn't strictly true. I can't see the point, but I can see the government's point. I think that the SVA is just ahead of the Contructon and Use regulations, and that modifications will be illegal sooner or later, or rather very tightly controlled. You only have to look at other European countries or Australia to see where we are headed.)

A TIF member imported a '96 VVTi single-turbo Soarer with non-standard suspension, instruments, and turbo, and to get it past the ESVA inspector they had to do a complete engine / turbo / suspension swap (with a earlier TT Soarer... go figure). A quote from the thread on TIF: "Bad news. It failed. On none of the things mentioned before. Do these guys make it up as they go along? Long live this very useful SVA. The whole engine has to be reduced to factory spec. Goodbye aftermarket turbo, headers, intercooler, suspension, and anything else they saw that didn't look standard. Besides which the car is too long with the Vertex nose kit on!" Maybe it depends on the inspector and test centre?

I think they were 150 bhp, no wonder the Americans stopped buying MGBs. As has been pointed out before... styling cues from the E-Type / MG and Ferrari. There's a 1JZ engined one in Bristol. I'm hoping to have a good look at the car at a TIF meet in September. Can't beat power AND "old-school cool", like a budget version of the modernised Jag that was on Top Gear last Sunday.

That's not so far fetched.... Slightly long intro, but bear with me You may remember the clip of Richard Whiteley (RIP ) on the sharp end of a ferret. The guy on the blunt end, saying "She's only playing. If she was serious she'd be through to the bone.", was a teacher (!) called Brian Plummer, who paid for his first house by betting on his ratting terrier. In one of his books Plummer had a brilliant picture of a terrier and a farm cat which had teamed up to hunt rats in a battery chicken shed. The dog was doing all the work, diving under the cages to flush the rat and the cat was on top, waiting to pounce (typical cat!).

I thought HPRs were supposed to be "soft-mouthed" I guess they really are all-purpose dogs .......

If you are talking about a turbo conversion to an N/A, I believe (from researching the tubo conversions for the 2JZ-GE in the SC300) that the turbo oil feed is taken from the bolt next to the oil filter, which can be removed, then drilled and tapped. The return goes to the boss above the sump. On the SC you have to drop the subframe to remove the sump so that you can clear the swarf. EDIT: Found the forum thread: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24570&page=2&pp=15 From a later post in that thread: "..... you didn't have to drop the pan... All you had to do was lower it, move it back slightly and put a trash bag over it so that the filings don't get in it."

These would be easy to catch ...... http://www.compfused.com/directlink/765/

http://www.ssautochrome.com/level.itml/icOid/1355 2JZ-GE manifold 750 USD

standard offset is ET50

Or try this http://www.worldlingo.com/en/products_services/worldlingo_translator.html Van Meeuwen® Welcome lubricants sophisticated at Van Meeuwen, the authoritative smeerexpert in, oppervlakte-actieve substances and services in the field of smeertechnisch maintenance. Van Meeuwen is possible you more quality, efficiency and cost savings provide then which also. EDIT: Copied the wrong URL

Soarer if you decide on (almost) 4 seats? Mechanically very similar to the Supra. It's a big car which is nothing like a Celica GT4 or Pulsar GTIR though, and can be costly to sort if you pick a wrong 'un. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=37872

Including Goodyear F1s according to the Goodyear web site http://www.goodyear.co.uk/services/tyreguide/feat_eagle_f1_gsd3.html

Don't think Cooper Tires do remoulds. Are you thinking of Colway? 245/45-16 would give you (a little) more choice http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m4b0s345p0 and they are very close in size http://www.powerdog.com/tiresize.cgi

Only 80 quid? One cost me about £6.30 from Toyota, and it wasn't even a domed one! In the end I bought a set of 20 from wheel-warehouse on eBay for 29 quid, although that doesn't help you much for Sunday

IIRC, the Rover turbo is the odd one out, descended from the old BL O-series (Maestro/Montego) , nothing to do with Honda.

You beat me to that link Thought you might like this pic of Reepa's cars. It's not very clear, but check the registration plates.... GRYMM and REEPA

Try Google. It seems to "hang" less often than Babelfish or Worldlingo. http://www.google.com/translate_t

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk_politics/4075490.stm ".... a Mori survey suggests 16% of drivers would refuse to have tracking devices fitted in their cars to allow the introduction of road-charging. The survey suggested 34% of respondents opposed the introduction of charges for driving on congested roads at peak times, compared with 47% who supported the measure." Where the hell did they conduct the survey, Central London among people who have no use for a motor vehicle because they can use public transport?

Soarers use 9005J for dip, and it's a total pain. 9005 need hacking about, and sometimes fail MOT because they don't have a "cap" and the light scatters above the cutoff. Other than the 9005 option (and maybe ordering bulbs from Toyota -- don't know if anyone's ever tried), the only options we have are HID kits or (expensive but cheaper than HIDs) PIAA bulbs from the Soarer club shops.

Other "Wills"

Never mind, the TT is on M&M next week (preview Friday 3rd)

http://www.powerdog.com/tiresize.cgi http://ejelta.com/tiresize/index.html but you need to know the standard 16 inch / 17 inch sizes

PCD is the same (114.3), centre bore and (standard) offset are different. Nissan centre bore (IIRC) is 66, Supra is 60.1 (so standard Supra wheels would not fit) Nissan offset (again IIRC) is 35, Supra is 50, so standard offset Supra wheels would be inset on a Skyline and might cause clearance problems. Aftermarket wheels: -- almost certainly have a very large centre bore so he'd need the appropriate spigot rings -- may well be 35 offset anyway Please note.... people often miss out the spigot rings on aftermarket wheels. This puts all the strain on the studs and not on the hub, and is not a good idea. One of the members of the Australian Soarer Club sheared the wheel studs because the rings were missing (For the same reason, spacers should locate on the hub spigot, and provide a spigot for the wheel to sit on).