Matt Harwood

This is the first time I've read this thread, and I haven't read it all either, but I have seen a car that seemed to have, what I initially thought was a wastegate issue, turned out to be duff spark plugs causing a bad misfire, which in turn made sent to wastegate into a spasm.

It's called "Negative Camber". And yes, it's normal to have a degree of negative camber on most performance cars, although the Supra has more than most.

Don't worry, I didn't read it like that.

Chris, Mark does have a proper fuel pressure tester, and that was one of the first things we checked. The gauges read within about 2 psi variance at 40 psi. - Sadly, not that. As Darren said, when we first checked the pump, it was clearly leaking from the lower hose connection, but after we replaced that, if you were to restrict the pumps output, you could actually phisically stop the pump and the current draw went massively up as you'd expect it to. The power supply was perfect reading at 13.8 volts minimum. We also replaced a piece of weak hose, but that made no difference either. His regulator is where the charcoal cannister would have been. Exactly the same place as mine, and many others that I've worked on. Yes, it gets warm, but nothing excessive, and I certainly don't have this problem. it's a strange one. Probably something really simple, but until I can find it, it's annoying...

My car has a fully built engine and been running on a single for some time now with a stock Toyota oil pump. No oil seal problems here. I know Matts engine was built be a very competent builder, so I can't see this being an issue.

Just to let you know, what he's saying about the locking pulses is correct, he's not trying to fob you off. The disconnect / reconnecting of the battery won't take long. Less than 5 minutes.

Here! OK, first thing I would do is try a reset. Easiest way to do this is firstly, make sure that battery has a good charge in it, (able to start the car), then disconnect the batterys earth terminal. Leave it off for about 30 seconds, and re-connect as cleanly as possible. When you're testing the alarm, are you leaving it for more than 30 seconds before trying? - Anything earlier than that and it will just give you a warning to let you know the circuit is working. The alarm doesn't actually set until after the 30 second 'settle' time. Let me know how you get on.

Got my freebie last night

I'm suprised no-one else has mentioned this, but, are you aware that all this hassle you're going to will give you slightly laggier turbo response and maybe, just maybe, a little more power at the top end. Safer, maybe, due to the 550's, but these would do the same job with the ceramic turbos. And yes, the steel turbos 'might' be slightly stronger at prolonged higher boost, but at anything more than 1.2 bar, they're still well out of their operating efficiency. Lots and lots of hassle for very little gain IMHO. Sorry if I'm urinating on your bonfire

Oops! Double post Tried to edit the above to put it all in capitals, but it wouldn't let me

Ngk Bcp7res

And you Bob! Although I always stick to them for fear of getting points, (got a clean license at the moment!), it does irritate me that I 'could' be moving at a more sensible pace like 60% of the other people going through the cameras.

I go through these almost every week. On the M25 and the A2 I've got a speed limiter on my Peugeot, so I just set it to 50, and don't need to worry about monitoring my speed. However, when I do this I frequently get overtaken by loads of cars. So many, that by now, if this is the norm, millions of people must have point from Specs cameras, yet I don't know of anyone yet that has even had a fine because of them! This is something that I've been wondering for ages. Do they actually work? - Or more to the point, does anyone act on them or are they just a deterent?

A little clarity needed here I think... Clifford alarms, IMO, are excellent. Sadly there are many people out there that have no idea how to fit a Clifford properly. They CANNOT be rushed. They're not a fit-and-forget type alarm like most out there. They need yo be installed by people that are conscientious about their work and take the time to set them up properly. Nearly all Clifford problems are either down to the installer, who couldn't be bothered to set them up properly, or down to the user, for nut understanding/reading the instructions. Depends which shock sensor is used. The Omni-sensor is adjusted via the remote control in the same way as the Dual Zone Proximity sensor. The basic shock sensor is the one that has a knob on the side. Nope. A Clifford has a guarantee for parts and labour for 1 year. The labour part of that is only covered by the ORIGINAL installer. The alarm control unit and remote controls have a lifetime warranty against defects, (not poor setting up, or water damage or physical breakage, or blown up etc.). But this warranty is ONLY to the original purchaser and must be submitted for repair with a copy of the original invoice. The Dual Zone Proximity sensor is adjusted using the MASTER remote control only. Not the valet switch.

Yep, that's the one. Almost as if it were only one cylinder at random intervals I'll give it a whirl, if I can wind the fuelling up enough to keep the stock ECU out of closed loop.... The disadvantage of piggybacks.

I phoned a guy at Sky called Luke a few days back and he rang me back with a very good quote. Dissapointed that they didn't offer to cover me at their expense, but the price they quoted, considering my rather long modification list, was certainly the best I've had so far

I'd be suprised if it is, but that IS something I haven't changed. There does seem to be a theme here though. It only happens once the car has warmed up. Mine certainly doesn't do it during coldstart cycle.

Before I could box it up, I had to call in surgeons to carefully separate it from my son... Now that's done, he seems to have re-grown the old PS2 bodily attachment...

Good, get of your ass and stop messing the guy about

As Mike said, it's the pads being pushed back slightly further due to a disk being less than true. - This is one of the reasons for checking disk runout. I changed all my disks recently and got the runout to as little as I could and the initial bite was superb!

Mine too. Gets it further away from the gearstick and still allows me to stuff things in the pocket below! Steve, with a bit of trimming, you can get the plastic trim to sit around the outside of that unit so that you hide the cage a bit more

We had the labels e-mailed to us. All I had to do was stick it in a box and phone UPS. It's sitting in a box in the hall right now, ready to go, waiting for a friendly UPS driver on Wednesday morning

I'll get a PS3 when Gran Tourismo 5 comes out!

I'd guess a less-than-perfect injector could cause issues, but again, in my case, I changed injectors and the problem remained the same.