Matt Harwood

From what I've seen of auto NA's on dynos before, I'd say the figures were about right. Although I agree that every engine is different and one can easily be more powerful than another...

I popped over to Rebas tuning today as there was a mini meet and a couple of guys were getting their cars dyno'd What was interesting was that two virtually identical NA's were being dyno'd. One auto and one manual. Both cars had performance exhausts, one RSR, the other a Blitz Nur. Both cars had stock airboxes, but one had an aftermarket panel filter. They dyno'd at 162 and 168 rwhp. (The manual being the higher). That's only about 3.5% difference! I was expecting slightly more than that... Thanks to the guys at Rebas for entertaining us. Very nice guys, and very helpful.

I'll pop over to say hello

Don't see a problem myself

After getting through 4 sets of front disks over the past few years, (and just about to change again), I'm prepared to try anything!

The things I like about the T67, is that you achive full boost about the same time as the second turbo comes in on a stock sequential car. So the performance drivability is very similar, with the exception that you don't get a nasty kick as boost 'switches' from 0.9 bar to 1.3 on the sequential set-up which can upset the balance of acceleration. The other thing is that in the 'laggy' area, it makes wet weather driving easy too. Not to mention that on a run, because you can cruise at about 80mph without boost, the car's more economical too! I recently got 330 miles from a tank full with mostly A/M road driving. OK I was taking it easy, but not really driving like Miss Daisy.

FWIW, IMHO, I've driven many, many Supra's. Everything from stock to T88's. Manuals, auto's, with high stalls, and without. Pretty much every combination. Now, I know I'm not going to win any friends with the hybrid comunity, but I still believe they're a waste of time if you're after a good power increase. I've never driven a Supra with Hybrids that has impressed me. Neither have I driven a Supra with any form of single that is 'only just' quicker than hybrids. Forget power figures. Especially big ones. I've got a T67 on my car. It's set up to run 1.5 bar on road fuel, and in terms of power figures, it's probably around 550 bhp. (if you want big numbers, stick the car on a high reading dyno, and do a guestimation of flywheel HP using the highest loss percentage you can think of ) Traction IS an issue. First and second gear cannot make use of full throttle. Third gear will, but only if the conditions are good. If conditions are bad, (and I'm only talking about cold weather, not wet), then even fourth gear can easily lose traction. If you really want 700 bhp, go for it. But trust me, it won't be much fun on the road, and you'll either end up with a turbo with nasty lag, or running a smaller turbo at it's ragged edge. If anyone ever want's a demo of a puny 500 hp car, feel free to pop over to Maidstone.

I read an article a while back that seemed to make sense. Apparently, whoever wrote the article believed that most 'warped' disks are not, in fact, warped at all. He believed that it was residue from the pad bonding material burned onto the disk surface that causes uneven patches on the disk surface resulting in the feel that the disk is warped. The cause of this is usually after a heavy stop, when the disks have built up a lot of heat and the driver keeping the brake pedal pressed, causing the pad bonding to break down and partially bond itself onto the disk surface. I've got through more disks than pads since I've had Supra's. I don't honestly know if I do sit with my foot on the brakes after a long haul stop, but I've certainly tried to be more aware of not doing so since reading that article. Terry S has a set of DBA disks on his car. I know he doesn't drive lightly, and they're still going strong. Maybe them, plus keeping the above in mind is the answer....

http://www.funny-games.biz/driversed.html

It is. Shame there weren't any there though

To be honest, I've never made a claim that went through with ease. It's nearly a year on from having a guy hit me whilst I was stationary in a queue of traffic, and whilst the car has been repaired, we still haven't got our excess back. - That's Direct line. I had a Ferrari stolen from work a few years back. The thieves broke in to the building and used a brand new unregistered Mercedes to ram-raid thair way back out of the shutter door, before driving off in the Ferrari. The insurance company at the time tried every possible angle to not pay out, and even suggested going down a route that would have left us bankrupt. - That was Cornhill. - That year I was paying just over £2.3k for company insurance. After that claim, they quoted £11.5k to renew. I went with Norwich Union after that and have been with them ever since..... Until we need to make a claim and they mess me about. All I really look for is what I class to be reasonable cover for reasonable money. I've had 10 years with no claims on house insurance, 2 claims on car insurance in 18 years, and 1 claim on business insurance in 7 years. So I'm not really a phantom insurance claimer, but I'm sure any insurance company will try their hardest to wriggle out of any claim.

Just a quick warning, anyone getting tints done with metalised film, be aware that it could, (read, probably will), interfere with any alarms fitted with external zone protection, (proximity sensors etc.). 5 windows for £125 really is a bargain. We can get them done at Maidstone, but as others have said, you'd be looking at nearer £220. There are very few poor quality films around these days. The poor quality ones are usually the ones sold as DIY films. The legal limit for tints on the front door glass is 70% light transparancy. However, there is a letter circulating from Hampshire police stating that they will only ask to remove/prosecute if the front glass falls below 50%. Usually, you'll only get asked to remove the film from the offending glass, then produce the car at an MOT station. However, some police forces seem more strict than others.

Just to let people know. We've just had to renew our house insurance. Initially I used confused.com's website, (which I have to say was longwinded, but worked quite well). Anyway, Barclays came out the cheapest, AND had one of the best covers available, (I don't always go directly for the cheapest). Confused.com's link to purchase the insurance was a duff link, so I went directly to Barclays site and saved myself another £20! Anyway, seeing as Barclays have knocked of £80+ pounds from our previous insurance company and were £25 cheaper than all the others, AND offered monthly installments at no extra cost, I thought I'd give them a quick plug. For anyone about to require home insurance, I'd certainly recommend getting an online quote from http://www.personal.barclays.co.uk/BRC1/jsp/brccontrol?site=pfs&task=channelFWgroup&value=7391&target=_self :D

I was searching for knickers of course!!!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Homless-Knickers-found-in-Tumble-Dryer_W0QQitemZ5473361303QQcategoryZ58383QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

In fairness we moved out of our old house in November. In our current chain there is only us with nothing to sell, and two other properties (the top one is vacant) but it's still taken 15 weeks so far. We're (me, Chantelle and our two kids) living with my parents (great fun) so we can't wait for it to complete. Problems do arise unfortunately, like our sellers getting four weeks into the purchase of their 'dream' property only to have something show up on their survey, pull out and start looking for another house!

We originally sold our house back in April last year.... We're hoping to move into our new house next Friday!!! In fairness, a first time buyer shouldn't have quite the same difficulties, depending on chain size. I'd highly recommend our solicitor though. She's always been very helpful, and the estate agents are happy talking to her, (read, not scared to phone her), which helps. They're fixed rate, and no sale, no fee. Tina Burton - http://www.dickinson-dees.com

Personally, political correctness is one of the things that I feel is being rammed down our throats these days. So much so, that I personally get really pissed off with it all. Lets stay all PC and not have any racist jokes, No Essex girl jokes, no blonde jokes, no gay jokes, no sexist jokes, no nationality jokes, (Irish, Scottish, welsh etc), no disabled jokes, no current affairs jokes, no political jokes, no ageist jokes, no religious jokes..... Know what I mean?

It's my little girls birthday. Dana is 9 today, and together with me having a rare day off and some choice girly presents, Rob went out of his way to make her a fantastic, personal birthday cake that really made her day. (Tastes great too! ). Can't thank you enough Rob!

Well, certainly the serial lead and diagnostics plug isn't there, but that shouldn't stop it from working. The lack of red LED could simply ba a bad connection or blown LED. The only real way to tell is to get someone that's famillier with how RL works to either plug in a laptop and watch what's going on, or drive the car. Turning the adjuster fully clockwise should set it to it's most sensitive, 'Wet' setting.

The only 'off' light the RLTC has is the red LED. When you were driving around in circles, did you hear/feel the car misfiring? You should have done. To find your diagnostics LED, locate the silver RL box, it should have two plugs on it. The smaller one is the one with the serial cable and diagnostics LED attached.

You'll have 2 led's. A red one, usually on display near the adjuster, will only come on if you switch the adjuster fully counterclockwise to the off position. There should also be a green one hidden away near a serial cable. The green one is the diagnostics led. The diagnostics led will give different reading depending on what position the adjuster is in. Four of the positions will flash with rotation of each individual wheel, and one will flash in time with rpm.

No probs mate. As far as installation goes, no problems. There may well be a software issue though. I don't know any more than that yet, but I will report back as soon as I know more...

Nope, just fitted I've fitted the blue to both types of car and there's no problem either way.