Matt Harwood

I've owned both. The auto accelerates quicker to roughly 100 than the manual. I'm fairly sure the book figures involved some pretty good drivers given unlimited runs with no penalty or concern for breakages. With that in mind, you can abuse a manual far more than an auto, so yes, the manual may have got a quicker time eventually, but I bet the auto had a quicker average. And yes, I now own a manual, and I love it.

I'm sure Matt will be very pleased to find out later that I am a lesbian.(63%) I suppose having the nickname Spud, being able to change oil and doing all the decorating myself we should have realised sooner! Chantelle

I'd have thought that re-connecting a battery with the ignition on would cause the mother of all voltage surges! That's something I've always been taught never to do!

Blimey, you've washed it!

If you're hoping to do 15 cars, and take your time, you must be planning on a very long day!

Can anyone tell me how to get out of the motor trade?

Damn! - I've been found out!

He has!

Please PM me asap. She's supposed to be meeting someone to go and visit Dude, but the person she's meeting is caught up in traffic on the M25...

As much power as you like providing the car is still limited to 112mph. Anything over that, and the JDM brakes stop more by luck than anything else.

We usually stay seated until after the credits (or after a couple of hundred people who have felt the need to cram through one tiny door all at the same time have disappeared). We have also seen lots of outakes and extras that are shown after credits that many friends have said they didn't get to see. My main gripe (seeing as we go to lots of kids films) is people with babies in cinemas-you know they will cry so why take them, and when they do cry why sit there and not take them outside. Chantelle

I doubt it. Even if it was full of water, it could only short the indicators. nothing else.

I doubt the alarm could be solely responsible for ALL those faults, but certainly a couple maybe. Out of interest, have you removed the battery since the jumpstart? Just wonering if you have all the battery's connections back where they should be.

Thanks for the offer but I think I'm doing a fairly good job myself thanks

IMO this is a bit tricky to diagnose on here. As already said to blow a 50a fuse is a bit drastic. As Gav said, get the alternator checked. If you have a multimeter, check the voltage when the car is running. It should be around 14.4volts. Slightly more or less isn't a problem, but certainly not significantly over 15v. I hate to say this, but going on your comment about the indicators sticking on even when the fuse is taken out, could mean that the alarm is playing about and possibly fried too. I'm fairly cartain it won't be related to headlights or the blowing of a 50a fuse, but it may be a case that you maybe have a couple of ECU's effected by the jump start. Sorry, can't be much more help at the moment. Can't say I've ever come across anything like that with a Supra before.

LOL, well at least you've learned something from it. Glad it's all sorted now though.

Your life expectancy is 82.4 years I'm fairly confident I'll prove that wrong. If I get to that age, I'll be more than pleased!

Well, you never know. It might come in handy some day... Sorry, that's not funny at all. How's you car coming on now? - I haven't been on here for ages so I may have missed you getting it fixed.

Now perhaps you can explain to us, why oil is good?

You need one to prevent the ECU from shutting down the fuel supply if the ECU 'sees' too much boost than Toyota intended. It works by monitoring the signal, (voltage), sent by the MAP sensor, (Manifold Absolute Pressure, or pressure sensor for short). As a rough guide, 1 bar of boost equates to roughly 4.5 volts, so the FCD, (Fuel Cut Defender), allows all the correct voltages to get sent to the ECU, but when it gets to about 4.4volts, it then clamps that signal so that the ECU always 'thinks' you're running standard boost pressures. Does that make sense?

Best to give Pete a ring to be certain, but going by memory the yellow wire is the clamped signal wire that should go to the pink wire down at the ECU. (Cut the pink wire and connect the yellow to the ECU side and insulate the other side).

Hmmm, without wishing to be a scaremonger, if you've got a constant 5a drain, (got that from the other thread), you may find you've got a high resistance short circuit somewhere. If it's enough to flatten your battery in a couple of hours, my guess is that a wire somewhere could be shorting out and either lighting a bulb, (some bulbs), very dimly or the wires getting very hot and will soon start to melt stuff. This 'could' cause you a major headache requiring the assistance of some burley men in uniform, a big red truck type thing and some hosepipes.... Now, what ever floats your boat, but personally, I'd recommend disconnecting the battery when the car's not in use and get it to an auto-sparky asap. Whilst your driving the car, make sure you have the tools required to disconnect the battery quickly, just in case. Sorry to put the fear of God in you, it could be something really simple like a duff fuse, (I've seen it before), but better to be safe than sorry. The fuse for the sidelights and dashlights is combined and is in the kickwell. 10a (red) by memory. Using your multimeter, check the related fuse with the lights switched to the on position. You should be able to put the positive probe on both sides of the fuse. You should have 12v on both sides. If your 5v reading is on one side whilst 12v on the other, change the fuse to start with, (don't be tempted to uprate it!). If changing the fuse does nothing and you still have 12v on one side and 5v on the other, if this is where your electrical knowledge runs out, disconnect the battery and grab the Yellow pages.

Haven't read other thread yet, but as for disconnecting a Toad alarm, don't worry. There are some scarey alarms around but Toad aren't one of them. Providing the alarm isn't armed when you disconnect power to it, it will power up in disarmed mode with no problems at all.

When you test current draw, you should leave the probes connected for a good minute or two before taking that reading as correct. Many ECU's go through a 'power up learning/diagnostics' cycle which can draw a couple of amps. If an alarms is on a car when the battery is re-connected, some will arm, some will disarm and bring on the interior light. (Watch our for indictor flashes.) Also, make sure all the doors and boot are closed as an interior light being on will also add to any readings. Even if the light is switched off, there may be relays active, so the doors and boot MUST be closed