Matt Harwood

Hmmm, well, I'll let you know how I get on tomorrow. I'm supposed to be fitting on to Pig's UK spec. Personally, I can't see any reason why it won't work. But if I have a problem, I'll let you know tomorrow night.

Are you considering this for your car John? - Sounds like a lot of work, for very little gain. Just MHO of course.

Rob, don't even think about it!

Really sorry to hear this Joe If there's anything I can do let me know. Matt

No, there's no common connection when installing them. Could be that the stock sensor is out of adjustment? Look on the throttle body, where the intercooler pipework meets the throttle body. You'll see a largish black lump on the right, (looking from the front), thats the sub-throttle motor. Opposite that is the sensor. Check the plugs are connected first, then check that the two screws on the sensor are tight.

The Sub Throttle is the first butterfly in the intake path. It's used by the stock traction control and to reduce the throttle opening during gearchange on autos. Do you still have it connected? - If not, that's why you're getting the error code.

Damn I type slow!

Correct. At least if one pump fails, the car just stops, not melts. Obviously if you are going for BIG power, (600+++), then yes you need two pumps.

Not exactly, but when we first put the single on my car, (T67 with PE650's), I had two maps done for my E-manage. The race fuel map was set-up at 1.8 bar of boost, and the fuelling showed no signs of dropping off. (I'm purposely not quoting any power figures ). However, at TOTB last year my pump started to die and couldn't flow enough fuel to keep up with 1.7 bar. It was immediatly apparent there was a problem as car was running lean after 4krpm. No matter what fuelling adjustments I made, it would still run lean. After changing the pump, all was well again. (well, it wasn't, 'cause I'd adjusted the E-manage to chuck more fuel in, so it's initial run was stonkinly rich!). So whilst there's no actual measurements taken, it can be fairly obvious. Edited to add, you could also see the fuel pressure increasing as boost increased to a point, then the fuel pressure started to drop off as the pump couldn't keep up...

To be Honest, I doubt it would make much difference. They're both going to be free flow exhausts. OK so you may be able to squeeze another 2hp if you did get it re-mapped, but I can't see it could make any critical difference. Obviously if you have the choice of getting it mapped after the exhaust is changed, that would be prefereble, but don't lose any sleep over it.

Yank power ratings. [/cough] Sorry Bob!

I've got the E-manage Blue in my car and for a cheap fix, it works really well. I'd say it's stumbling block is mapping big injectors. When I had 650's it was fine, but it's stuggling a bit with 800's Its biggest plus point is that you could get the whole kit fitted and mapped for under £1k easily E-manage Ultimate looks like the one to go for these days. It has some very good useful features. Just need to give Ian some time to suss it out properly.

5-600 rwhp IS mega power! My car, at 1.5 bar is about 550rwhp and it can be a real handful with traction in anything but good warm weather. Don't underestimate what a genuine 500 crank horsepower can do. Anyway, for what it's worth, have a look at the spec Terry S has on his car. It was designed to be the ultimate street set-up, and having driven the car many times, IMO, it's certainly reached it's goal. It drives almost like a big powered NA car would. Very little lag and excellent power delivery.

Is everything alright Ian?

It will only affect top speed and fuel economy as turning OD off stops 4th gear engaging.

Manual is better undoubtably. I've owned both. With the auto I used to average 18mpg, with the manual I noticed an instant increase to about 23mpg.

Well, I kind of cured the problem, by replacing the sequential crap with a nice single I know that's not much help, but after testing all the parts that were easily accessible and swapable, I lost interest as my goals were to replace the sequentail system anyway.

If it clicked a couple of times and everything died at the same time, then the car started after a few more attempts, I'd say it's loose battery terminals.

He means he hasn't been using his boot controller, leaving the turbo to run 'naturally' limiting boost via the wastegate.

Slower than mine when I have my EBC set to 1.4, yeah Terry's best to answer that as he has one...

Not that I remember. Just in and out from the main waterways.

Depends on what the wastegate spring is rated at Jon. Usually ~1.1 bar I believe. (mine is 1.2 without boost controller)

LOL, double act!

Get a ride in a singles Supra. If it's set up even remotely properly, I defy you to be impressed