Matt Harwood

I was about to congratulate you on your tast for good cars until I read Fiat! I've had far too many Mk1 and Mk2 Escorts in my time:D Still love 'em!

Nice to hear it wasn't anythying serious

When was the last gearbox oil change done?

I've got them on my car. I got them with the car so I have no idea how much they cost, although I'm sure they're easy enough to come by if you're prepared to go to Lexus for them The fronts are 8 x 18 and the rears are 10 x 18. I'have 245/40/18 on the frint and 275/35/18 on the rear. Offset and clearance are not a problem. And they do fit over the UK brakes.

I thought I'd pull the dash apart in the hope of finding something obvious. There wasn't. However, I removed the little converter box's power and earth, left them off for about 10 minutes, then put it all back together. When I took the car for a test drive, everything was ok again weird! - The only possible thing I can think of that may be relative is that I had a flat battery yesterday and then jumpstarted the car. - I guess it had locked up. Anyway, back on track for Elvington so I'm happy

F*ck, Sh1t, Balls... Mine's just done the same thing on the way into work. There I was, poodling down the outside lane of the M20 at 110 following a Beemer, Bm moves out the way, I go to overtake, then stop overtaking, then start overtaking, then.... Bo11ox, Just what I need a few days before going to Elvington... Pete...

I'll go along with the 21 psi giving more power too. I fitted my restrictor plate and the boost went down to about 15 psi too. I'm lucky enough to have a boost controller to put it back up to 18ish when I need it.

What a bummer, having to resort to that! - You've been driving 4wd too long

The F1's are bloody good tyres but you can get tyres with a better speed rating. Depends if you're likely to want to do many top speed events or how fast you're likely to drive

That makes sense Thanks

Thanks Lee, I should have checked mkiv.com first That bracket was a bit of a pig. Especially trying to tighten up the nut with the hose in place. (putting the hose on first seemed the lesser of the two evils at the time ) What's the adjustable bolt on the end for? - Does it need any adjustment?

Anyone know of any web pages showing good installation diagrams or at least pictures? I'm not very good reading Japanese I've been told it's a 5 minute job,... I'm sure it is when your famillier with how they go on.

Or any uprated pump...

F*ck that! Thankfully, with Chris's de-cat pipes and restrictor plate and Leons fuel modifications, I've only hit 950 once - Full throttle for about 30 seconds, (just managed to exceed the legal speed limit;) ) - Mostly, it just edges over 900. It was the NGK thing that lead me to start this thread. I was wondering if I was the only one going over 850. - It's good to see other peoples readings.

When I was talking to Leon, he said 925 was about the max. you'd want to be running. - According to NGK, anything over 850 is where detonation starts... http://www.ngk.co.uk/tips/preign.htm Gavin, you had some info a while back on some kind of knock warning gadget, do you still have it?

Ahh, thanks guys, I feel much better now. I thought mine was runningway to hot at WOT. I'm using the HKS gauge/probe. I'm getting around 650-750 at around 2-3000 rpm. and full throttle running 1.3 gives me a reading of 900-950. 1.2 peaks at 900 - The FMIC seems to start 'working' at around 50-70 mph. At roughly that speed the egt stops climbing, (and has even dropped a few degrees), for a few seconds, before continuing on it's way up... Before Leon played with my fuelling, I was peaking at 1000 and easily hit 950 within seconds of going to full throttle Detonation could easily be heard.

Cough... Amazed? I didn't say a word...

Damn good point, thanks Syed My probe was installed by Chris Wilson, directly after the exhaust port on no.1 cylinder.

Anyone? What's the highest normal readings, flat out for a high speed run? What figures do you get when generally cruising on motorways ets. 2000-3000 rpm?

If you unplug the trac motor or pull the fuse, it will disable the TC and make the warning lights flash. Also, if you have an auto, it'll make the gearshift a lot harsher as the butterfly closes slightly during gearchange. It's noticeable under hard acceleration - Drag racing etc. Steve, in the dry, you'd be hard pushed to get the Supra to wheelspin from standstill - Try again in the wet

That's not traction control... That's paint preservation control

Ahh, forgot about a pump!

Fuse no. 45... Diff cooler!?!?!?! - Obviously only applicable to UK cars but why would a diff cooler require power???

12v would be the power supply - Usually taken from the sidelights, so that the foglights operate in conjunction with the external lighting system. Acc. is the 'accessory' that the switch is powering - In this case, the foglights. I agree, 1,2,3 is not helpfull at all

Yes, if it's connected wrong, it'll blow the fuse. You should hopefully have markings on the switch indicating 12v or +, Earth or - and Acc or similar. Get your self a testlight or better, a multimeter and find out which is which. The wire going towards the foglights may be reading an earth signal through the bulb so it may be easier to remove the backpanel to see what colour wire goes to the foglight. - This wire connects to the acc. You dont actually need the earth connected to get the foglights working, this might help you to find out which are the switch wires. Once you have the switch working, put the earth back on and the switch should illuminate. - An illuminating fog light switch IS part of the MOT so make sure it gets reconnected. Hope that helps.