stevie_b

Is that offshore outsourcing experience?

There's plenty of links about the pitfalls of Indian outsourcing, but I've heard that east Europe has a better mix of talent levels (meaning less mistakes to be corrected). But I'm still wary of it.

Does anyone on here have experience of outsourcing software development? I'm thinking of India or eastern Europe, but could be anywhere really. I'm considering doing this, and keen to hear about experiences, companies to recommend/avoid, process that must be followed, etc.

You probably know this already, but when you fit new pads they usually take a good few miles to bed in. Before that happens, braking performance will feel poor. *edit: my suggestion above wouldn't help with a low brake pedal, so the cause is probably something else.

Thanks Benjy, I appreciate it. I might get hold of a temp sender (depending on price!) to see if that makes a difference.

Is it unusual for an electric fan (not an engine-driven fan like the supra has) to operate at normal temperatures though? I thought those ones only kick in when things get hot. My assumption here is that the temperature gauge should be at the half way mark under normal driving. I don't know if that's definitely the case on the CMax, but it's been the case for every other car I've driven. If the thermostat is faulty and I change it for another one that holds the temperature at the halfway mark, that'll mean the fan will run during normal driving, and that doesn't seem right. In turn, that means either my assumption about the 'stat being faulty was incorrect, or that there are multiple problems on the car (temperature gauge, temperature sensor, ECU fault, etc...). The aircon was definitely off.

My newly-acquired Ford CMax runs cool: the temperature needle gets to 1/4 of the way up the gauge. This points to a thermostat that's stuck partially open. But then I ran the car stationary for several minutes, and the electric radiator fan cut in when the temp needle was at the halfway point. I find this last point a bit odd. If it's just the thermostat that's faulty, surely the electric fan shouldn't cut in at the halfway mark (which is what cars usually run at on their temp gauges, as a rule of thumb). Any ideas?

I'm still convinced PayPal will take no action against the OP. I'll bet £100 on it, anyone want to cover the other side of that bet?

I thought Windows 9 never existed.

Assuming your account is accurate with no important stuff left out (I've got no reason to think it's not, I just know what teh interwebz can be like sometimes), I would say it was sold as seen, no comeback. If he wants a guarantee, he should purchase from a trader and pay 50% more. Even then, retailer guarantees on used cars and car parts can be as much use as a waterproof teabag. I can't see how there can be any comeback if the money was sent to you as a gift. On what grounds can someone claim back a gift? I suspect the Paypal T&Cs just cover themselves. For them to actually do the clawback, there would have to be some compelling logical argument for doing so, and I would bet that a "he said, she said" argument on the internet (as seen from their eyes), the type of which thousands take place every day, wouldn't be sufficient. They won't want to play the policeman in such a dispute where money was gifted, so they'll most likely do nothing. As for threatening to out you as a scammer on the forum, I would tell him to do so.

I'll remain mildly sceptical about it until I've seen it in action for a few months. Are Microsoft still trying to have all devices run the same OS, and give the same user experience across devices like they did with Windows 8? I can't see how that can be a good thing. A laptop is not a desktop, which is not a phone, which is not a tablet. Homogeneity for homgeneity's sake. I do like the move towards it being an incrementally upgrading OS, as long as they can support long-term improvements without carrying lots of obsolete code to support people with ancient hardware.

The .co suffix is fine. It's the Columbian top level domain, like .uk is the UK's top level domain. You probably don't have to have any connection with Columbia to own a .co domain. (A few top level domains do have such restrictions). As Thorin and Ric said, it looks like Jon has made changes in the configuration of his domain hosting account at OpenSRS which means the internet doesn't know where to deliver "@m87.co" email to anymore.

Does this describe your non-start symptoms? -> http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?70712-Car-reluctant-to-start If so, your starter motor contacts need refurbing. I don't know about the revs going low then high then low. High then low sounds normal, depending on how long this takes. Are we talking 2 or 3 seconds, or less? Or a minute or two? More details please!

Rest easy folks, there's more chance of me spraying my MSB F&F orange, than Dave changing his from green.

I think you've already done enough to prevent your car being stolen by opportunistic thieves. I think a greater problem will be pointless vandalism, which you mentioned.

All electrical systems in the car will have a wire (an earth wire) connecting it either directly to negative terminal on the battery, or something metal and substantial like the chassis or engine block. The dashboard electrical circuits will probably have a wire, or several wires, connecting it to the metal bodywork. My suggestion was to identify the earth wire in one of the circuits, attach a new piece of wire to it, and attach the other end to the -ve battery terminal or the metal bodywork. E.g. take the speedo cluster as a good example. There will be a green circuit board on the back of it. Identify the earth connection on it (either by searching on here, or by looking at the circuit board's annotations) and run a new wire from it to the -ve battery terminal. This isn't necessarily a trivial thing to do: you might not be able to get good electrical contact for the new earth wire at the circuit end. You might find it hard to identify where to connect the earth wire. You can cause serious damage to you and the car if you go touching wires together that you're not sure what they do. If you're not sure, get someone to help you or take it to an auto electrician.

That's a lot of electrical issues you have there. It sounds like some or most of your dashboard isn't wired up properly, or has a wiring fault. A bad earth can sometimes cause strange effects as the electrical circuit tries to complete via other components, so you could try running another temporary earth cable from wherever the dashboard earths, to the battery or chassis, but it sounds like you have multiple electrical faults. Any sign of burnt wires when you remove the dash fascia? Are all the fuses OK in both fuse boxes? Is your wiring completely stock? As your odometer works, then the speedometer (unless wiring has been radically altered) will also be getting the speed signal, so no need fo further work at the speed sensor.

Would be great for me if it was just a film, but I think not. See links from Ford forums: they're not talking about CMax's but I would think the process is the same http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/18428-fiesta-mk7-rear-privacy-glass/ http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1305959

I'm pretty sure the tint is in the glass, and not just a film. It was a factory option.

This isn't for a Supra, it's for a Ford Cmax. I'm looking to buy a used CMax (max budget £5k), and I've found one with exactly the spec I'm after (engine, colour, age, sensible mileage, options, price, history, etc), apart from that it has factory-fitted privacy glass in the back. I really don't like heavily tinted glass so how easy/cheap is it to swap it for standard glass? For the rear doors, I guess it's a case of pulling the door trims off, finding some good spare glass (breakers?) and replacing it. Probably glossed over a lot of details as it's a job I've never done. The rear window would need more work and be more expensive I presume. Bearing in mind the car is in the region of £5k, I'm thinking it's probably not worth the hassle and to compromise on the spec I'm after. Thoughts?

Smooth!

Hi, you might need to be a paid-up member of the club to be able to do that. Only £10 per year or £30 for life, well worth it.

I've got my non-supra daily driver insured with them, and have done for many years. I can't remember if I've ever had to claim on the policy (if I have, it was many years ago). They seem fairly flexible and easy to deal with for trivial admin things. Are you sure you've got a quote for a Jspec mk4 supra, and not a UK spec or a mk3?

Whose is the rather nice MSB?

Good write-up. The birds'-eye view camera angle is intriguing. I guess onboard cameras capture what's on each side of the car, and some very clever processing turns it into an accurate guess of an aerial view.