tonyhawk

It took me a while and the answer is a bit 'around the houses', but it is possible. How many heads will I be responsible for hurting today?...

Sorry it not in English, but try to find a way out...

er, can you tell me who with; I'm 30 with no points, 1 years NCD, and I'm paying £1750 FC? Ta.

I suppose it depends what you're after? If you're going for an XKR, then I guess you're wanting a bit more luxury, or a boot perhaps? I needed something like that so I bought a second car, a Lexus LS400 (keeping it Toyota... ); and there isn't a car on the road (this side of £100k) that can match it for comfort (you can hold a conversation at a wisper, doing a ton!). The best part is, I bought a 97 model for £6k (average price)! I've had it for about a year, and I haven't even needed to put oil in it; a well maintained one simply doesn't go wrong and it'll do 300k easy. I know having 2 cars isn't always practical, but you'd have something to ferry the wife and kids around in (or simply fit the shopping in) and still have your play thing? It's not slow either with 280 horses; not fast by any means, but it'll hold a scooby in a staight line (sometime I forget that I'm not in my Supra... ). Just a thought.

Er, yes; the Elise is a poor mans Esprit (which is also Turbo'd); the MR2 was designed in a similar vein as the Supra, but with a smaller engine, a generally lower spec, and sold at a lower price, so yes. The difference is, when you buy an MR2, you buy it because you want a cheap 2 seater that's a bit of fun, whereas when you buy a Boxster, you're looking for status, why else would you buy one? The BMW is better built, the Honda is better performing and the SLK, well, hmmm, well the SLK is for those who aren't worried about not looking maculine. The Boxster is medeocre IMO, the chassis is good, but lacks the equipment to make it perform; the engine is under powered, and the interior is made to look expensive, without actually being so. It looks and performs like a Porsche built to a budget. Don't get me wrong, I've got a lot of respect for Porsche's, if I were to come up against a Carrera GT, I wouldn't even try... I agree with GeordieSteve, there are better ways to spend £30k to carry the shopping. Just as a thought, rather than buy a £30k Porsche, why not buy a £10k Supra, and then add £20k of mods....

Cheers for that, but it's a manual.

Ok, life is officially not fair; my engine goes pop, so I drop it out and repair it; 30 miles later, the oil pressure release valve sticks (on a new pump!), so I pull the front of the engine apart, take it out and sort it. Wonderful I think, my girls all better and ready to go.....no....she's decided to develop a rather worrying knocking noise... I know it's nigh-on impossible to convey a noise on a post, but I thought it worth a go, because if I have to rip this thing out again I'll be doing so in a padded workshop, wearing a nice white jacket with extra long sleeves.. The noise was quite hard to locate; it sounded like a cam follower knock as it seemed to be quite high up and it was quite clear, not like a dull big end clunk, but when you try to find it it sounded like it was coming from the entire engine! However when I was close to the floor, I noticed the noise was really loud and clear from underneath. I've got a sneaky suspicion that it's coming from the flywheel? When you rev the engine there's not just a knocking noise, but a physical knock that you can feel, distinct from the rest of the vibrations; only when you listen under the car, about a third of the way back (gearbox level), you can not only hear the knock, but also a rattle that's most pronounced on the over run. Now, a while ago, about 20 miles after I re-fitted the engine, I heard a horrible noise coming from the clutch area like someone had dropped 20 washers in there. I stopped the car, and took the inspection plates off the side of the gearbox, but there was nothing in there (nothing loose that is). I know the flywheel is full of springs and squiggly bits, so is it possible that the flywheel has imploded? Could that be causing the knocking and rattle? My sanity is riding on this so I would REALLY appreciate some help....

Thanks for that, it makes sense.

I'm sorry for asking what is probably a simple question, but can someone please explain how a dual mass flywheel works? Thanks

On the clutch price, I was quoted £248 fitted from a local clutch place, so it's not too far out, but then that price does include them getting to it, which your place already has?

Isn't that dependant on the type of bolt used? I know the old non-stretch types often did, but the newer stetch types are tightened to a preset pressure, and then effectively "over-torqued" with a 90 degree (or what ever the ratring for that bolt is), so they're permanently pulling, and thus don't need to be re-torqued. The only problem there is I'm not sure what type the orignial Supra head bolts are...

Mornin'

I saw something on BBC's web site saying that they arrested two people in Liverpool St. Station, but I don't think it's closed or anyting.

I honestly don't understand why people perform these sorts of mods. Don't get me wrong, I understand the desire for "something different", but why not start with a fast/impressive car? Why start with something mediocre and then spend a small fortune on it, when it will never be as good as if you spent that money on a better base? As some have already said, I can appreciate the time and effort spent on it, but I can't help but think "what's the point?"

I agree; I think only an it IT guy can truly appreciate that comment!

I didn't want to be too specific 'cos I'm paranoid about theft (already had three bikes stolen from where I live.. ). It's just down from Canning town, roughly between the bus station and the airport, off of North Woolich Road. I mentioned Barrier Point as it's the name of the flats, and I thought that if the person who owned it lived there they would recognise the name?

As others have said, the dipstick only shows the top 1 litre and the amber level warning light comes on when the level reaches the minimum mark so you were only just below that. The engine takes a smidgen over 5 litres from empty, but I have seen a spares book in my local parts shop that says the Supra takes 4.5 litres, which would leave it quite low on the dipstick if the shop followed that guideline? Just a possibility.

Not sure if it's a comfort or not, but mine used to go through about a litre in that sort of time before I had the turbo's reconditioned?

Just wondering of the owner of a silver Supra in East London is on this forum? I live in Barrier Point and I saw another supra in the car park, but I've never seen the owner, and I was just wondering if you're on here? Tony

Cheers mate, she's been off the road for about 6 months now what with one thing or another and I was so happy when she sprang into life after only two turns! I put the sandwich plate in this evening and put everything back into place, cranked it over for a while to get the oil round, reconnected the coils, then crank, crank, boom!!! Very happy; just seeing the pressure rise like that, when I haven't seen it on a guage before made me paranoid that the problem might have gone the other way! All I need now is an MOT and Tax...

I've had a hunt around in the forum as well as on the web and in my workshop manual, but I cannot find a max PSI rating for oil at the red line. As some of you may know I had an oil pressure problem recently which I have just resolved (stuck oil pressure release valve), and while I was there I put a pressure gauge in. I have just run up the engine and all seems well, but I was wondering what the oil pressure should be at the red line when hot? In the manual it says that the pressure should be 4.3psi at idle and between 43-78psi at 3000rpm, which means mine is spot on, but it then climbs a up to about 90-95 psi (hard to tell as the gauge goes up in 20's) at the red line. Is this normal? Thanks

Cheers. Forgot to mention, I do have an FCD; I'll tune in 1.2 and see what happens. The biggest problem is power at the turn of a button...... I can resist anything but temptation....

I have recently had the turbos on my Mkiv ('93 jap spec TT) rebuilt using oversized steel rotors etc., reconned and balanced etc., and according to the shop, they should be good for 1.5bar. However, my car as it is may not, hence is the question: It's a Jap spec, original fuelling with the exception of a Walbro pump. The block and pistons have been done (JE). Head gasket is the HKS 2mm (ready for the big guy(s) when I can afford it). The head has been fettled and the cams are 264 in and out. HKS adjustable cam wheels I have IK24's in there. Boost is being controlled by an EVC V. The exhaust is HKS with the second cat removed. The rest of the turbo set up is stock. No intercooler yet Given the current state of tune, what pressure can I run? I realise the best bet would be to take it to Thor or wherever, which I will be doing in a few weeks when I will be treating it to a piggy back ECU and professional tuning hands, but it's currently running just under 1bar, and it seem wrong to waste the new toys for so long.. :thumbdown . However, at the same time I don't want to break it! Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Tony

Just a quick question, but what mods have you done so far? The reason I ask is because when my car was stock I had similar fueling problems above 1bar, but it was cured by a Fuel Cut Defenser and a better fuel pump. This is especialy true if it's a jap spec, 'cos the pump has a lower flow rate than the UK spec one

I've found that the "distance" between 'max' and the light coming on is only about a litre, so it doesn't take much of a loss (or a short fill ).