carl0s

Ah, I see. Thanks!

The stock air filter is just badass though. All you have to do is lift the flap and you can see the dirt. Then you take it out and look at the back and you can see how great is it at filtering. The main purpose of the filter is to filter and protect, and I just might not have that confidence in another system. Is it really a PITA to retain?

I haven't been in one, no, but with a super small dbb single and a cast manifold, I expect I should be seeing more power at less than 3500rpm than I do with the half-twin setup at that point, wouldn't you agree?

Is it a flappy type MAF rather than a wire then?

Is yours an auto or manual? Thanks for the offer - really kind of you and I might take you up on it I really do think a cast manifold is better though. It's just never going to break. I like that sort of thing, hence liking Jap cars and hating things like wireless keyboards.

Reliability, compact package, and earlier spool.

We know, thanks to Ian C's observations, that the Jap ECU goes all-out on the injectors when it sees more than 1 bar of manifold pressure. What happens if you had a single turbo, so you had a large mass of air but the pressure was still within the stock system's range (0 - 0.99 bar)? Has anybody measured the reactions of the stock fuel system to differing levels of air mass? If I went single-turbo, I could just use an A/F meter and see if everything's OK, but it would be pretty dangerous raising boost until things started to go lean. I envisage that with a 58/60 sized turbo, I wouldn't be exceeding 0.9bar or something, so would be within the stock fuel system's sensor-reading range, but the air density would be much higher than with stock turbos. I'm a little mystified because I've just read about how MAP systems work, and it seems like all MAP does is provide a way of coming out with a MAF measurement. So why not just use a MAF sensor in the first place? From what I read, MAP systems measure manifold air pressure and density (which is inversely proportional to the air's temperature) and refer this against an engine speed map which tables how much air the engine gobbles up for a given rpm, the end result being a calculation of mass air flow, according to Wikipedia. So why would people want to change from MAF to MAP, i.e. with a MAP2 ECU ?

Hmmm. You raise a good point though. One would expect the FMIC kits to be made to mount up to the same place as the stock SMIC, so it shouldn't matter.

What needs modifying with Arnout's manifold? I'm only concerned because there wasn't much good said about existing cast manifolds until Arnout had his design made. There were concerns about wastegate size with the other ones, and as it's for the same price I'd rather have the better one. Which reminds me.. where do wastegates come into this? Does the PHR street kit come with one. I suppose I'll need some kind of overboost protection such as a wastegate.. I suppose I should be asking my questions to PHR really shouldn't I. They don't say whether their street kit is meant to hookup to an FMIC or the stock sidemount..

You're not getting this cast manifold thing are you?

Yep the T67 isn't what I'm after, and I want the cast manifold, and I'm not going to buy anything just yet anyway. I fitted one of Chris' SMICs not long ago and would like to retain that.

I am considering thinking about (thinking about considering?) going for a small single turbo at some point. Can somebody comment on the following questions? 1. My facelift Jap car already has a MAP sensor, so that should allow for the actual air mass to be calculated from the pressure/density(inverse of temp) for proper fuelling with a fuel controller, right? 2. I want to go the piggyback route (autobox..), so should I look at a MAP2 ECU or an eManage ultimate? I already have a MAP sensor so my car doesn't exactly need converting from MAF to MAP like the yank/uk cars, so does that negate one of the MAP2's main usefulnesses? 3. I would want to retain the stock airbox and intercooler. Is this feasible or do some things just get in the way? My SMIC is very good so I don't want to be told an FMIC will work better, I just want to know if it is actually physically possible to do it. Obviously I will need bigger injectors and whatever is required to make them work with the piggyback (rails or whatever.. I have no idea). I want to keep costs down and don't have big horsepower targets or anything. I just want to remove the artificial 4,000rpm lag and have a little extra power. I want to use a cast manifold, so basically I am looking at something like the PHR Street kit, except I would use Arnout's manifold. Any ideas? thanks

Are you sure you're using the correct AC adapter? Does the voltage and current ratings of your adapter match what the laptop has printed underneath?

We used to supply Clevo / Kapok machines maybe six years ago. Enta Technology supplied them as bare-bones (you buy the CPU, hard disk and RAM separately). The two companies (Kapok and Clevo) merged around about that time IIRC. They were always to me, not proper laptops, fairly pooly built budget units and we usually had a draw full of batteries that needed to be sent back for not holding more than 2 minutes charge. The fact that their bigger units (15 - 17") used desktop processors & chipsets never seemed like a good thing to me, although it did mean you had unusually good graphics for a laptop (and a lot of heat, noise & weight). As a result I have always been considerably surprised by the following/obsession that Alienware seem to have got Having said all that, it's been a long time now since I dealt with them and being a company that doesn't follow the trend so to speak, I'd quite like to see some of their other current machines. There might be something special and neat/small in their lineup now.

Might make a good xmas pressie for my uncle. He got a Diawa Emblem spod reel for his birthday so I guess it's all along the same lines. Is this a special price or is it regular ebay price?

Go and get L 800OST from http://www.dvla-som.co.uk/home/ for £250 including fees then.

see http://www.mozilla.org/support/firefox/profile

You need to take a copy of the profile folder in %appdata%\application data\mozilla\firefox

You want this one: http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/ProductInfo.asp?WebProductID=550155 So do I

I use a similar thing for IDE, and have done for a few years. I use it probably every other day on different drives every time and it does what it's supposed to. The police computer forensics units use a similar but slightly more expensive modular unit that incorporates write protection & SCSI, firewire etc. I can't see any reason why the one you have wouldn't be working and had been thinking about getting one myself as I use a cardbus SATA card at the moment. edit: actually, that site says pretty much what you said Chris: and So it bridges Sata to e-SATA. I've never touched e-SATA and had always assumed it was standard sata but with a different connector possibly incorporating power (i.e. so you could just get an e_sata to SATA cable). This suggests otherwise, else like Pete says what would be the point of this bridge device.

I think my offer was really good. Come on, it's nearly christmas. You'd make a young lady very happy

NA autobox has less planetary gears or something, or clutch packs. Can't remember. The TT box has seven, the NA has five.

That sounds too quick for a 220bhp heavy car. I'd have though it was 6.8 or something

Add at least another second to that I think.