carl0s

No way!! I was going to ask but I know he gets a bit touchy and doesn't quite see the funny side - hence it being brought up with much frequency

Do I sense sarcasm

you two make a great team

Yep that's been on my mind a bit lately, not that I'm likely to be getting that sort of power anytime soon, but I read over on the AEM forums some time ago about quite a few people killing their autoboxes with ~500bhp (500 real horses). I think the lack of pulled-timing from the AEM at the time didn't help, but even so..

I would get whichever type I wanted regardless of UK or J-Spec. I'd be a bit upset about the brakes, but other than that I'm actually quite eager to have a go in one of these more sprightly J-Specs

Mine works quite well. It worked exceptionally well when the plumbers goofed up and connected the hot water to the outside tap. Unfortunately my mother ordered them to make it cold again. The one I have is adequately powerful. In my eyes it's really quite powerful, but even so they never clean the car. You *have* to use a sponge, so there's little point. I really just use mine for cleaning the soapsuds off.

yep sex and drugs go hand in hand, cunt.

Don't miss this I love these programs. Channel 5 now (23:00)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-SUPRA-REAR-TAIL-LIGHTS_W0QQitemZ4572539650QQcategoryZ10428QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem do you think the seller realises he has two left lights for sale? One facelift one not.

Since lowering my car, I'm happy with the look, and already can't get my jack under the front-side, so I'm going to sell the side-skirts that I was going to get fitted & painted. there are a couple of cracks, one is on the thin-bit that goes up under the front wheelarch, and other is small bit of damage inside the air-duct. I can post pictures later. They're white, and will definately want cleaning up or repainting (I was going to have them painted blue). Offers above £250 + delivery or collection. Photos later, i'm out working ATM.

looks tidy. Might want to say that's it's auto, before everybody asks.

I'm afraid I can't help with the bug Just got rid of one - my sister budgie. I really can't stand squarking birds

You'll need a 5mm allen-key for holding the threaded bolt still while you do up the nuts on the new ones too.

http://www2.css-networks.com/droplink.jpg Above is a picture from the EPC. I've circled the droplink. You can see the part-number for the proper nuts so if you've got time (2 days for non-stock items from Toyota) I'd recommend you order those. Probably be about £4 for the four that you need.

replacing the drop-links (also called stabiliser-bar links or anti-roll bar links) has sorted my car also, except for a slight knock from the OSR. I'm afraid you will need an angle-grinder to get the old ones off though. If you have ordered the genuine Toyota drop-links, you will need to buy some nuts from Toyota too. They are 14mm Metric-Fine (finer thread than regular Metric), and you will not find them at any hardware stores. The existing ones will be ground off with your angle-grinder of course. After three hours of driving around Engineers suppliers and hardware-stores on saturday morning, I made a last-ditch attempt to see if my local Toyota dealership workshop was open, and to my joy, their parts dept. was open and supplied me with the necessary nuts. They need to be locking nuts (Nyloc or similar). The ones I got were perfect and had a crushed end which made them lock. Apparently they are used on exhausts. I'm afraid I don't have the part number. The rears are easy compared to the front - you have good access to get the angle-grinder on the nuts. I recommend you do the lower nuts on each side first, then the anti-roll bar will be loose so you can rotate it where you want, making it easier to work on the upper nuts. You'll see what I mean.. the drop-link is basically a horizontal link between the anti-roll bar and the wishbone, so it's bolted to the anti-roll bar at the top, and the wishbone at the bottom, on each side of the car. Do the bottoms first then the anti-roll bar isn't connected to the wishbones any more and can be rotated around for doing the tops.

it's a possibility (they do look extremely masculine) but you'd be surprised just what heavy amounts of A/S does to a female body. The penis-like clit was not a joke, nor the masculine-voice.

bugger.. I was getting so excited at the prospect of YOURING you

they've got so much testosterone in them that they'll not only sound like men, but they'll have penis-like clits too not for me thanks

I love the bonnet. It's got facelift headlights on it too.

The engine is non-interference BTW, so if the timing belt breaks, it's merely an inconvenience.

I think on a timed 0 - 60 you would probably see about 5.2 - 5.5, as they are difficult to get off the line. If you were powerbraking perfectly, I reckon you'd hit 4.9 with a BPU. 30mph++ is phenominal

there is some good info here: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=225332&highlight=4l80 depends if you just want to drag race or not. This Gear Vendors overdrive unit sounds good - gives overdrive on all gears! Turns a TH400 into a 6spd unit! The 4L80 comes as either 4L80 (mechanical) or 4L80E (electronically controlled). Supposed to be the absolute nuts, but requires beating the transmission tunnel a bit to make it fit.

I'd be interested in hearing if it's possible to fit one of these: http://www.transmissioncenter.net/4L80E.htm the 4L80E is supposed to be the replacement for the TH400, it's 4spd, usually electronically-controlled but the one above is a custom no-wires version.

Whifbitz (Paul Whiffin) http://www.whifbitz.co.uk sells copies of them for £160+vat/pair, I think. He might call them "Whifbitz" ones, instead of Toyota ones, but I'm pretty sure they are the OEM design.

No mate the centre is on a clutch. When the aircon is turned off, the centre is disengaged from the pulley itself. When the aircon is turned on, this clutch engages and the centre starts turning with the pulley (the outside bit), therefore driving the compressor.