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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

carl0s

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Everything posted by carl0s

  1. hehehe very funny. Because I was there at the weekend and she told me how Jurgen says he can get her a car for £4k. That's a whole day after she told me she had an RX7 on the boat..
  2. Eyes bigger than my belly? http://www2.css-networks.com/fat.jpg I couldn't decide whether to get the Steak or the Lamb, so I got both. I hope they shrink a bit!!
  3. No it's not. Sigh I just didn't want to ruin an otherwise useful thread by replying. Supralookin' is Bubbly Bozo is Bomex989. I shouldn't have said anything to start with but I'm just easily iritated sometimes
  4. I don't think it does. It says it will "add grip at the front" and "The car will still under steer slightly". So basically, it means less understeer.
  5. Great stuff, thanks. I'vejust failed miserably with some acrylic red paint - it started smoking when the bulb was on. Just found a can of Tamiya paint and trying that now
  6. sort of, what i mean is that those lights which are on as fogs, would they go even brighter if you braked whilst they were on as fogs? Or do the diodes block the brake power going to them when they're on as fogs? Not sure why I'm bothered, it obviously works. I was just afraid of blowing the bulbs with them getting double super-brightness (fog power + brake-light power = lots of power & brightness).
  7. Paul, does this stop the inner lights (fogs) going even brighter when you brake?
  8. Awwwwwwwsome. hmmm. I think I will paint the bulb today, and buy a new bulb and some diodes tomorrow. MOT in the morning. I knew I wasn't alone with trying to pass MOTs..
  9. I did like the sound of that - I saw it on Thor's website, but I was/am not sure how it would apply to a UK car where the wiring is already in place. As things are now, I have lost a reversing light. Really I could do with a red lense but painting the bulb should get me through the MOT tomorrow
  10. Awesome. A dude I know suggested moving the pin for the RH reverse light over to the Fog pin - Job done! Just need to find some red nailvarnish for the bubl now
  11. I was wondering when I'd get to try these out.. http://www2.css-networks.com/terminal.jpg ho hum.. chatting to myself. No finer person to talk to..
  12. I could just strap it across, but then I might blow the bulb as it'd be getting lots of current, and even more when I hit the brakes!
  13. YEAH BABY. Now can anybody help me with what kind of resistor I need?
  14. Reckon I might be onto something here.. there's a wire going into the connector *from* my car, but the corresponding pin on the J-spec lights doesn't exist. Fingers crossed..
  15. Okay I've found the wiring diagrams on mkiv.com, but they don't mean much to me - I need to know about wire colours and what not
  16. carl0s

    Tread ware

    Seems to be very common. I thought that inner-edge wear was due to them having negative camber, which is desirable.
  17. the Bilsteins come highly recommended. They can be had for around £115 each if I recall correctly. You can get 'em cheaper from Nic but there's a good wait.
  18. well for £8 a peice.. I was told that they would be siezed, and was thinking that they might end up being cut / ground off, so that's why I bought replacements. With them here, nice and shiny, it made sense to use them.
  19. No, but I just did it for the hell of it. Yeah the upper requires the arch liner taking out.
  20. heh. The LCA was £158 + vat from CJ's contact (Steve Manley at Inchcape Toyota, Oxford), the camber-adjustment cams were under £8 each, and the castle nut was 87p. All +vat. Only tools I used were a 14mm ring-spanner & 5mm hex/allen-key for the drop-links, and a small & large breaker bar with various sockets from 14mm to 24mm. And a jack & axle stands of course.
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