Whitesupraboy2

u got to partition god help u if u get a bad sector develop on one part of hard drive making whole hard drive unreadable id cry lol ahh so it changes the chips mode....i like sounds of that better then emulating by a mile!! What u think of scsi drives?? although they seem to work quicker i cant really make my mind up whether it worth it,at work we have scsi card to 2x 18GB scsi 15,000 RPM drives, i think personally a waste of money,but hey it not my money!

na mate not calling u stupid i meant, it be stupid to hold back in the work place to a 32bit server when u can have 64bit server as in work palce a server...is well normally a dedicated server that sits there. i cant be arsed to rewrite that line though lol and as for 32bit first....u know i meant 64 bit i guess from what u saying if ur pc got the guts for the emulation then go 64 bit. will surely slow some high power games drrasticaly doing all that emulation though?

i been put off the 64 bit system due to compatablilty issues with 32 bit software. As the operating system has to emulate 32bit. any problems? i dont see point in going 64bit yet......but someone always has to be first **added** in work palce on servers yes do it...i mean at home

bournemouth area?? if so ill look out for another white one

doesnt have to be the same size as car does it a couple of Rivets to hold together will do, this will also help if damage occurs meaning you could rplace just half of it instead of all of it. Obviously if the peice is a foot wide

your the one with the gold toyota badges i need a chest wig as well though

got something to say!!!

i cant tell you type for UK sorry, but if your looking for a high quality one. You have 2 routes, One that can hold a lot of power coz you have a big sound system. Or one with a high cold crank (thin kthats whats it s called) mines 300 odd which turns over fine, but good ones are about 500 odd and also they are totally sealed so they will never need refilling. hope helps a little

havent a clue mate, but if your lucky when they look at it they will find a stuck stone

u answered my next question about a knockign sound on bumps, most people think it is too do with suspension. I will speak to my mechanic mate soon and ask him if there anything that can be tighten on the rack,but i know only cure for a steering rack really is too repalce it. But perhaps if something we can tighten, and noise stops we know the cause

is it a clicking sound or does it sound like the outside wheel of the turn is slipping slightly or the car jumping slightly on the click. (obviously the wheel does not slip and car does not jump it is just the feeling of it doing it)

this is normally steering rack problem, dad's ford puma had this happen 2 weeks ago, told him top go get his rack repalced and all is fine now. I can tell u a nova steering rack is £35 and puma one £75 but god knows price of a toyota supra

sorry if im being thick are we talking bout the little holes that the spring goes in from one pad to the other?? i have a couple spare calipers so i think i may change the calipa and do another brake flush GGGrrrrr it says dot 3 on the cap of it, so ill be putting that in again

nope i tested this, brakes fine! dead straight as a whistle and real quick as well. I cant see the piston pushing on the outside pad at all! it just slots infront on the peice of metal, i have 2 round pistons pushing on the one inner pad. I really am confused by it too be honest. I dont understand why its rubbing at all! when im driving and come to stop u can smell the brakes. they working fine,i will see if it has stopped by next weekend. If not brake will be taken apart again

cheers for the replys, i cant believe the pistons are stuck because i could push one piston in wit my hand and watch the other come out next to it,so they are very free flowing. or shouldnt they do that! lol obviously pushing on both,pushed the fluid up in reservoir,which is correct they are J-spec ok so the pads were green, the ones i put in now are black lol As for one side hotter then other i couldnt tell i didnt touch it i could just feel the heat! I still cant work out from taking them apart how the brake pushs on both sides of the disk! as the pad on the outside of the disk just sits there?? im prob being thick

its just i replaced my front discs and pads on my car, one side of car fine, but on the other the inside pad is slightly touching,i say slightly coz it is, as in it touching,when pulling away it does not make the front of car dip and does not stop the car extra quick,so i know it just touching. i can tell from the heat and smell after a drive. i have taken the calipar off twice now and pushed the piston right back then pumped it and gone for drive but this bad just keeps touching it doing my head in, car driveable oh and the brakes are bloody briliant now, my old pads were down to hardly anything,my brake pedal back up the top. it also looks like i had Green pads on before. any ideas on why my pad sticking ohh it took me 5 hours to do the disc and caliper change,due to 3 hours due to a rusted nut

do the pair of brake pads have to go on certain positions. E.g. one is meant for the inside of the disc and one for the outside?

there are some from south wales on here hopefully they will see this. I would personally buy a supra if it was just imported with no histroy, after doing all the checks of buying a new car. Just make sure when u test drive you get the second turbo to come online, turbos should coem on just before 2k and 4k as a rough guide. Listen to them making sure it is correct noise. Turn steering wheel full lock, go forwards and reverse in full lock listen for some knocking/clicking Check aircon works. Check all buttons work,if it has just come in UK check has fog light on it, Mph conversion. check tyres for uneven wear.start the car up chat to the guys for a few minutes then go see if any type of smoke coming out of exhaust (luckerly summer so should be no condensation) you'll know if it a good car from the drive and feel. You may get a rattle from the rear as this is common but probably just boot rubbers,so not to worry to much. There more u can check but cant think off top of head. As you can see im very detailed when test driving and buying sellers hate me

would this be the one on ebay, as i swear it had additional cost on top of it. If it isnt then thats a good price espically for a manual. Mileage 81k is average, there are loads in the 100k's and a couple known of in the 300k mark. as for white not being the best colour welcome I may be a NA but i have had my car 12mths not one problem, very very reliable if u change oil etc... normal servicing. are you going to test drive before u buy? i would listen to the turbo's use all gears etc.... the manual boxs are quite 'clunky' to move into gears so dont be put off by that. check engine for oil leaks and as its white hunt for any spot of rust,coz with white it will look 10 times worse

i thought u were joking..... no pressure james....no pressure at all!!!

decatting a car, is just replacing a exhaust, if a exhaust place manages to bodge that up, well theres no hope for them!! does this mean your car almost ready or this u makin long term plans and just testing the water as they say

that is not funny as i know ill cock it up now lol

excellant cheers

and resurrection to oldest thread goes too rather then start a new one, thought id ask. i will be doing my discs at weekend wit pads as my front right is grinding at me ....i think! i knew they were worn and getting close anyway question is, how do i get the discs off and is there a set of instructions (wit pictures preferably) on how to change the disks and pads thanx in advance

lol didnt think of that, bet he makes most of his money from the 50 pound fines for throwing up in a taxi lol