baldy

Im going with an arnout cast manifold. if im not happy with it i’ll go phr s23 divided to match the turbo Turn round shocked me to be honest. Who knows, i’ll see how it goes, i built the engine as itbhad run bpu for 15+ years on stock ecu mega over fueling. When i releast the big end caps the pistons were so loose in the bores it was only the lip atbthe top of the bore stopping the pistons falling out. The trans got the treatment as it had started to slip when i fitted a greddy with q45 throttle thus no traction flap to reduce power on gear change. I plan on getting the dbw to do this now though added a pic for reference, im not into shinny bits, still some tidying to do with wiring

In drive?

Its All about line pressure control, I have info from atf to implement this. Also I want the ability to move shift points which you can't do with stock ecu

Syvecs s7+ +an i/o 10as running out of inputs with dbw and the sensors I want to run It is ,pretty much a 6266 they just spec differently. Aft was very fast something like 3weeks and yes stage 3, stage 4 has come about since mine was sorted else I'd of gone stage 4. I have a couple of spare 340's. Once stage 5 is available I'll send one over

Tell me bout it

Borg Warner efr8374

Built engine, cams, inlet, single turbo, built trans. I've gone small turbo as don't want lag and not interested in a straight line machine

This is the setup I've gone for. Soon to be back on the road

Typical the pair of handles i have spare dont have that, but i think you can pic the head off so to speak and push it out. Where are you, if your not a million miles from me i’ll pop over

Maybe. Its been a while since I pulled my diff

Yes

Let me dig out a handle when I get home and refresh my memory

Between the spring where its hooked the the handle base and the White plastic in the pic. See rivet head that is what you grind down till flush then tap out

The pump is bolted to the diff. The oil lines will need disconnecting and the wiring to the pump

On the mirrors for non power fold you cant get them apart easily, but it can be done. Getting it back together is the drama though, so i’s leave as is. handles are pretty easy, theres a rivet, grind off the smaller end till flush with the handle part it goes through, then punch the rivet out taking not of the spring location for reasembly. Once back together use a center punch between the rivet end and handle to create a bur. done ive done loads and never hand one come apart hope this helps

If the painter knows what they are doing, the panels don't need to be on the car for a perfect match. Djg isn't a 3 stage Pearl either

This is a new setup, as yet unrun, but yes I have a temp sensor in the trans sump

Engine oil and power steering on passenger side, trans coolers with fan on driver side. Ive never had any problems with debris hitting coolers in these locations

An alloy wheel sealant would be better

I dont, but im seriuosly thinking about giving it a go

VMK18-400 | XForce USA For some reason my pc at work won't copy links, but Google the above

Single wire plug is temp gauge, 2 pin is etc Brands hatch is where I got mine

Ebay Toyota Water Temperature Engine Temp Sensor Connector Plug - LX42 | eBay

@ noz No worries dude

Whats my age or transmission got to do with this diff?